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Loading your Spyder up a steep ramp?

We have a bumper pull toy hauler, it's not as tall as a 5th wheel so the ramp is short, therefore steep. It also doesn't have a dovetail. I put rv support jacks under the door to lessen the approach angle of the ramp so the Spyder doesn't high center going into the garage area. To get the trike onto the rear door ramp I use a set of motorcycle ride-up loading ramps I've had for years. Because the nose of the RTL is very low and in front of the wheels, I had to get another set of ramps to lift the front before the nose hit the middle ramp. Ratchet straps from the bumper to the ramp keep them from moving when loading and any unpleasant dropping of the trike. The ramps ride in the bed of the truck. There is room in the trailer to put the ramps while traveling, but but putting them in the bed is easier for me. The tamps are stored under the rig while in camp.
 

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What have some of you done in order to load your Spyders into a RV with a steep ramp?

I have some pics in an Album ( see bio page ) .... the ramps are 10 ft. each .... it rises to 32 +/- inches ..... the center ramp has a 10 ft. long " cheese grater " screwed to the surface .... I have slowly driven up that ramp in the Pouring rain .... I use some 26 ga. galvanized sheet metal and using a large nail ( what they normally use in house construction ) and after marking a pattern, I just punched holes in it ..... reversed it when I screwed it down ..... folks here have seen me load it at various Spyder events and are surprised at how much traction I have ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
For us it isn't the traction that is a problem, it is the angle of the ramp - without the extra ramps and jacks as in my post above the nose of the RTL hits the ramp, and the Spyder gets high centered going into the garage.

I ran into a camper that had traction problem with his Spyder up the ramp, as he had to back up because the garage was too narrow for the wheel width with his slide in. He used an electric winch from Harbor Freight to pull the trike up backwards. The weight transfers off the rear wheel when going up a ramp backwards, and he said unless he got a run at it is couldn't get up the ramp without the wheel spinning.
 
On my 2016 Spyder RT, one can’t drive it straight on to the trailer because the bottom of the nose will hit the middle of the ramp. So we back it on which works great with no scrapes.
 
Loading spyder

As anyone ever used a winch to put their Spyder into there toy hauler backwards. My ramp is to steep to use its power to put it in by backing.
 
if your ramp is too steep, then your taking your Spyder's life in your hands by trying to force it on. there is something on bottom, don't know if its F3 or RT, that has to do with reverse function i believe that you can scrap and bend and damage. I WOULD'NT APPROACH THIS TYPE OF ARRANGEMENT.
 
Depending on the height and length of trailer here’s an easy solution with “NO” ramp. I have 2 toy haulers and a snowmobile deck over trailer. My fusion fifth wheel is no problem. My work and play toy hauler is a problem. My snowmobile trailer is a problem. Simply take 3 or 4 2x8 boards and screw them together. The bottom one is 18 inches. Second 16, third 14 and the top 12. WITH THE TRAILER ATTACHED TO THE TRUCK, put these blocks in front of your rear truck wheels. Now drive up onto the blocks. The rear of the truck is now 6 inches off the ground hence lowering the back of the trailer by 6 inches or so. Your ramp will now be flatter for the approach. I use these blocks all the time. Many times we’ll run and take the toy hauler. Simply unload the spyder on the road or in parking lot and cruise the aree. Many roads are lots are sloped so I have to do it with the fusion even at times. It takes 30 seconds to set the blocks, drive up and unload, load back up and pull off blocks. Put away and keep going. It’s so much better than using tongue cranks or jacks
 
As anyone ever used a winch to put their Spyder into there toy hauler backwards. My ramp is to steep to use its power to put it in by backing.

Does the Spyder hit the edge of the ramp, or just spin the wheel due to lack of traction because of weight transfer?
 
Here's what I did to load my Spyder on a trailer. It might give you some ideas for you RV issue. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...lution-to-carry-Spyder&highlight=trailer+ramp

I pulled the RT onto the trailer with a winch. The rear tire didn't track straight in the middle so I had to move the rear sideways a little bit as I pulled it in. One advantage of this approach is you would be able to use the RV ramp for the rear wheel and just need additional ramps for the front wheels. Also, as you pull it in the Spyder tends to stay somewhat level so it won't catch on the underside.
 
As in my post (#2 above) there are 2 entry problems with our short, steep ramp. First is the trike is so low, and the nose is in front of the wheels. The front of the RTL hit the ramp even before the front wheels touched it. Effectively, we had to lengthen the ramps to lessen the approach angle. Second is the Spyder would high-center going from the door/ramp into the body of the rig because of the acute angle of the ramp. I had to lift the ground end of the ramp a bit more than 2' to prevent the Spyder from hitting the underside in the middle as I tried to get into the rig.

Every rig is a bit different, every solution above worked for that situation. There is no single right way. One of them, or a combination of the suggestions, or what you come up with yourself will be correct in your individual situation.
 
The obvious answer is reduce the ramp angle. So, find a ditch to back up to, build extensions for the ramp, drive the front wheels of the RV up onto something, build/buy a longer ramp, etc....
 
Raise the front of the trailer, either by using the tongue jack or by backing the truck up onto oil change ramps. it's worked for me several times.
 
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