Loading a Spyder onto a Utility trailer

[Don in E Texas]

This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
Hope this helps.
don

 

[Director]

This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
Hope this helps.
don

I like your solution, Don. Simple, inexpensive, and effective!

Good work! :2thumbs:

Bruce

 

[SpyderGirl]

Don, we use an ATV trailer and we do the same thing, works great. We actually use the ramps that it came with that attach to the front when not in use. It's an oversized ATV trailer for two large ATVs.

 

[smokster]

This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
Hope this helps.
don

If you jack up the front end it will also lower the ramp. This what I do with the same size trailer.

 

[Buelldog]

Lower Belt Guard??

This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
Hope this helps.
don

What about the lower belt guard......does that hit when crossing the apex of the ramp and start of trailer bed? It looks like that is:dontknow: one of the lowest points under the Spyder belly?

 

[Longlegs]

What I do is approach the ramp at an angle so that only one of the front tires hits the ramp first. This raises the nose up before the second front tire hits the ramp. Just back off the same way.

 

[Garden]

Loading in reverse

Can you load in reverse? I want to add boxes to the front end so want to put the single wheel at the front?

 

[NancysToy]

Can you load in reverse? I want to add boxes to the front end so want to put the single wheel at the front?

You will have to watch the weight distribution carefully. The weight of the Spyder is well toward the front, which could put it behind the axle, a recipe for disaster. Counterbalancing with a load in the boxes would be possible, but is not too predictable. The extra weight of the boxes and their load could also make the tongue too heavy. Proper tongue weight on a trailer is critical to good, safe towing. I would also have concerns in an open trailer at highway speeds with the wind blowing the wrong way on the windshield. It is not designed for a load in that direction and could break. I have towed bikes and cars many miles, with many different types of trailers and I would be hesitant to do this. At very least it needs to be well planned, and thoroughly tested before you hit the highway. Just loading the Spyder in my enclosed trailer took some careful adjusting before I settled on the proper location for the chocks.
-Scotty

 

[xpeschon]

Loading it on the trailer is not the problem for me, its the tie down points, I looked in the book and theres no info on this,,, Where do you guys but the front and rear strap's at? Mainly the front ones I have a concern with the rear one there are a couple of points you can tie into but the front I am a bit confussed, I do not want to damage anything in and around the front end, yah know?? Your thoughts please?
Joe

 

[Trickie Dick]

Loading it on the trailer is not the problem for me, its the tie down points, I looked in the book and theres no info on this,,, Where do you guys but the front and rear strap's at? Mainly the front ones I have a concern with the rear one there are a couple of points you can tie into but the front I am a bit confussed, I do not want to damage anything in and around the front end, yah know?? Your thoughts please?
Joe

The owners manual shows tie down running through the wheels I think.:read:

 

[bjt]

I have not trailered my Spyder but I thought one of the most approved tie down suggestions was to run the straps through the rims. Definately don't use the cast metal parts (footpeg mounts) or the passenger grab handle to secure the Spyder.

 

[retread]

Yup, straps thru the wheels, no tie-points on frame. DO NOT use passenger grab handles, they'll break.

john

 

[Director]

I have not trailered my Spyder but I thought one of the most approved tie down suggestions was to run the straps through the rims. Definately don't use the cast metal parts (footpeg mounts) or the passenger grab handle to secure the Spyder.

That's right Brian. I trailered my Spyder to a local motorcycle show in February and used the wheels as tie-down points as per the manual. Worked like a charm. You must also be careful not to run the tie-down strap through the rear sprocket, as this can damage the drivetrain.

Bruce

 

[xpeschon]

I must have missed the tie down section in the owners manual, I will have to re-look this however, It's not need now cause of the info on this message, OK--the tires it is.. I have to be honest with you, as for the rear I surely would have tied it to the grap handles, Mistake number one--I'm learning... Thanks for the information--Good stuff..
Joe

 

[Lamonster]

Page 68 and 69 shows two ways of securing the Spyder.
http://spyder.brp.com/NR/rdonlyres/A86F2B61-B5BE-4BE9-8E75-31BAFBB36FC0/0/OperatorsGuide_2008_en.pdf

 

[NancysToy]

I must have missed the tie down section in the owners manual, I will have to re-look this however, It's not need now cause of the info on this message, OK--the tires it is.. I have to be honest with you, as for the rear I surely would have tied it to the grap handles, Mistake number one--I'm learning... Thanks for the information--Good stuff..
Joe

I have found that you can use the grab handles for keeping the Spyder back end from moving around (in an enclosed trailer) but you cannot cinch it down this way at all. You can just bring the straps taught, no more! Also, the handles are softer than they seem, and the tie-downs will cut into them. You need sleeved soft-ties to even think about it. The rear wheel is safer and easier.
-Scotty

 

[Lamonster]

I have found that you can use the grab handles for keeping the Spyder back end from moving around (in an enclosed trailer) but you cannot cinch it down this way at all. You can just bring the straps taught, no more! Also, the handles are softer than they seem, and the tie-downs will cut into them. You need sleeved soft-ties to even think about it. The rear wheel is safer and easier.
-Scotty

Personally I would not use the grab handles for tie downs. If you hit the right bump or had to make a quick lane change you could wind up putting enough pressure on those handles to break them. There's been post of them being broke before and if I remember right they are $200.00 or more.:sour:

 

[Don in E Texas]

Rev 1 of loading Spyder

What about the lower belt guard......does that hit when crossing the apex of the ramp and start of trailer bed? It looks like that is:dontknow: one of the lowest points under the Spyder belly?

After another go at loading the Spyder on my Utility trailer, Buelldog is correct::agree: the belt guard plus some of the exhaust MAY hit at the apex of the ramp (all this depends on your trailer, height, etc. etc.)....

My simple solution was to retain my two 2 x 6 boards in the same place but add two other 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 boards UNDER the edge of the ramp on the ground thus changing the ramp angle. Now everything clears:clap:

YMMV, of course..

Thanks for your post, Buelldog!:2thumbs:

don

 

[COOLHAND]

Ramps for loading

I found a great solution for me. I purchased ramps from Walmart that you would use for car oil changes in your garage. I set the ramps and then lower the gate onto them. The gate weight holds them in place and they provide enough wheel space for any alignment error on the part of the rider. They are also wide enough for the rear wheel. No problem backing off either. These ramps are sold in pairs and run about 40 bucks. There is more than enough clearence for the nose coming and going on. I intend later to modify so that there is not a chance of one slipping during the load.

 

[rc51ny]

I found a great solution for me. I purchased ramps from Walmart that you would use for car oil changes in your garage. I set the ramps and then lower the gate onto them. The gate weight holds them in place and they provide enough wheel space for any alignment error on the part of the rider. They are also wide enough for the rear wheel. No problem backing off either. These ramps are sold in pairs and run about 40 bucks. There is more than enough clearence for the nose coming and going on. I intend later to modify so that there is not a chance of one slipping during the load.

Would love to see a pic of what you do!