LH indicator not self cancelling

[Ross]

Hi Folks,
I have a 2012 RT-S SE5 and the LH indicator has recently decided not to self cancel after doing a left turn unless the turn is more than 90 degrees. The RH one works just fine. Anyone have an idea if this is an adjustment that can be done by a reasonably skilled ex Australian Air Force tech.
We travel on the other side of the road over here so our LH turns are usually tight.
Ross:sour:

 

[NancysToy]

It sounds like you need to have the steering angle sensor zeroed. That would require a dealer with BUDS.

 

[Bob Denman]

:welcome: Please let us know what it takes to get it working properly; Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[gypsy_100]

Hi Folks,
I have a 2012 RT-S SE5 and the LH indicator has recently decided not to self cancel after doing a left turn unless the turn is more than 90 degrees. The RH one works just fine. Anyone have an idea if this is an adjustment that can be done by a reasonably skilled ex Australian Air Force tech.
We travel on the other side of the road over here so our LH turns are usually tight.
Ross:sour:

It sounds like you need to have the steering angle sensor zeroed. That would require a dealer with BUDS.

Agree if you're sure it's really the sharpness of the turn that's doing it. Or is it "random" or a relation to how you push the button? Reason I'm saying this is that these things are infamous for not canceling properly. I've had the switch replaced twice and the LH non-cancel shows up again after a short time, like a few thousand miles. So I gave up replacing the switch again. I realized that when pushed right, the switch button returns to center and then self-cancels when the turn it completed. However, when I push left, often the button stays left or part-way left and therefore does not self cancel. I've just trained myself to push left and then immediately lightly re-center the button. It will then properly self cancel when the turn is completed.

Take a look at your switch after you push left and see if it's not all the way centered. While you keep your eyes on the road! There have been numerous threads on this problem and various solutions but I haven't found any that worked except re-centering the button.

 

[jerpinoy]

:welcome: I'm sure your dealer can take of your signal issue. Good luck.

 

[NancysToy]

Agree if you're sure it's really the sharpness of the turn that's doing it. Or is it "random" or a relation to how you push the button? Reason I'm saying this is that these things are infamous for not canceling properly. I've had the switch replaced twice and the LH non-cancel shows up again after a short time, like a few thousand miles. So I gave up replacing the switch again. I realized that when pushed right, the switch button returns to center and then self-cancels when the turn it completed. However, when I push left, often the button stays left or part-way left and therefore does not self cancel. I've just trained myself to push left and then immediately lightly re-center the button. It will then properly self cancel when the turn is completed.

Take a look at your switch after you push left and see if it's not all the way centered. While you keep your eyes on the road! There have been numerous threads on this problem and various solutions but I haven't found any that worked except re-centering the button.

Unless the switch is hanging up and continuing to make in the left position, which would prevent it from cancelling, the process is electronic, not mechanical. The cluster monitors the steering angle sensor, and once you straighten fully after a full turn, it cancels the signal. If the steering angle sensor is not zeroed, it will not show the return in on direction, so it will not cancel. The system should also cancel on timing out, 30 seconds (?) after turning ceases. Your problem does sound like it could be based in the switch, possibly failing to break after it makes. I'd try filing the button arm or slot a little to free it up, and maybe using some WD-40 sparingly to lube the button arm. It could also be the SAS zero, which would cause similar symptoms but would not make the switch itself stick, only the indication.

 

[gypsy_100]

Unless the switch is hanging up and continuing to make in the left position, which would prevent it from cancelling, the process is electronic, not mechanical. The cluster monitors the steering angle sensor, and once you straighten fully after a full turn, it cancels the signal. If the steering angle sensor is not zeroed, it will not show the return in on direction, so it will not cancel. The system should also cancel on timing out, 30 seconds (?) after turning ceases. Your problem does sound like it could be based in the switch, possibly failing to break after it makes. I'd try filing the button arm or slot a little to free it up, and maybe using some WD-40 sparingly to lube the button arm. It could also be the SAS zero, which would cause similar symptoms but would not make the switch itself stick, only the indication.

:agree: I think that's what I said, just not as eloquently!! I have filed the area for more clearance and I can get it to work perfectly in the garage but on the road when actually riding, it still sticks. Must have something to do with the way I push the button when riding, and it is sticking "down in there" somewhere, not where I have filed. I've always been leery of spraying anything in there for fear of damaging the plastic or getting into the electronics. I wait for BRP to say it's OK to spray a certain type of product in there but after all this time I know it ain't gonna' happen. So I just re-center the button. No big deal.

 

[Ross]

Folks,
just tried the switch with bike off and yes it sticks when pushed left. Will do some work and let you all know the outcome.
thanks
Ross

 

[Ross]

Still Failing

Had the instrument cluster replaced today and they looked at my LH indicator cancelling problem. They found that if you twitch the bars a little to the right after completing the LH turn then the indicator cancels. I have noticed that there is a small amount of free play in the steering. Any chance this may be the culprit. I am going back to the shop in the morning so any advice would be appreciated and useful.
Does anyone know if the current odometer reading can be transferred to the new cluster so that the reading is correct. I would have thought it would have been a legal requirement at least over here in Oz.
Regards
Ross

 

[Jim's_Spyder]

Mine sticks to the right "mechanically" and I'm having the dealer look at it in the future. Of course the dealer says its probably gummed up with road dirt and it will be repaired at cost. Lots of road dirt in 2K miles, lots and lots of of road dirt. :roflblack: Luckily it was only on the right side of the switch.

 

[retread]

The left switch module on my RT was replaced under warranty because the left signal only worked when it felt like it.
As far as the cancelling, there are 3 ways, manually, timed, and automatic from the steering sensors. I've never had the patience to see if the timed part works, but for the automatic part to work, the steering has to go far enough off center for the computer to notice, so the sensor positions are critical.

john