• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

LED Mirror Turn signal lights

When I get home from work I will scan and post them.

If I get hung up and forget (it sometimes happens) PLEASE remind me via PM.

Bob
 
Personally I say drill the little hole and be done with it. That is what I did.

I think the kind he bought go behind the mirror and thus no other way than to take them apart as you have to remove the mirror and peal it apart to put the light behind the glass.

I forgot about that post and your pictures! Those are right on. But I will still post the BRP instructions should anyone want them for reference.

Bob
 
WHEW!!!!

Got the left side off (whew).
Thanks to all who posted information to my thread.
I guess it is worse the first time since I didn't know what to look for.
Now that I have it off I will take some photos to reference later on if I need to do it again.

Just need to decide where to put the LED lights, top or bottom.
I am leaning towards the bottom so I can see them better as well as drivers behind me.
Safe Riding everyone!
Bogie
 
Just in case...
here's how you put them back ON! :thumbup:

First, make sure the mirror spring wires are straight and parallel. If they are bent inward they may not catch the post,
and if they diverge or bend outward, the mirror will be loose. It can help to put a very tiny bit of lube on the outer,
conical part of the post only. I'm talking about a film here, not a glob. Make sure there is none on the back side (post notch).
Engage the keyhole slot first. Then rap downward firmly (but politely) on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the bottom latch.
Now rap forward on the outer edge of the mirror to seat the front latch. You can rap a little harder than you can taking the
mirrors off, because they won't fly across the room, but don't get carried away. Problems seating the latches are usually
caused by bent spring wires.
 
Got the left side off (whew).
Thanks to all who posted information to my thread.
I guess it is worse the first time since I didn't know what to look for.
Now that I have it off I will take some photos to reference later on if I need to do it again.

Just need to decide where to put the LED lights, top or bottom.
I am leaning towards the bottom so I can see them better as well as drivers behind me.
Safe Riding everyone!
Bogie
Putting them on top allows the drivers behind you to see them better as they reflect off the mirror. They will see 2 sets.
 
As promised here is a PDF that I scanned of the BRP instructions for taking apart the mirror cases.
These are for replacing the top 1/2 with the chrome tops as supplied by BRP.

It does not show the rest of the disassembly like removing the mirrors, etc. But this is the hard part most people worry about.
After you get this top cover off the rest is easy peasy!

These are high res scans and should print exactly like my originals.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9BFwCzfMWZ8XzZQSy1WbXl4aWM/edit?usp=sharing

Enjoy,
Bob

P.S. I don't know how long I can keep these on my Google Drive so get them while you can.

Bob
 
I just did mine as well. Because of my apprehension, I turned the task of opening up the mirror assembly over to my son-in-law who doesn't know how to delay gratification. He opened it up like a Christmas present. There are a couple of tabs you can coerce loose then get at the remaining tab. It takes focus and gentle but firm prying. The real issue is getting the mirror off the swivel plate (mirror adjustment back plate). Use heat sparingly to begin prying the mirror off because the back plate is thin and will warp and it is difficult if not impossible reform it. (Ask me how I know - no don't.) Be patient and persistent at this stage. There is a single screw, spring, and spring cap in the center of the swivel. The plate has to be dremeled to accommodate the back of the LEDs and my 2012 had a slotted hole already formed in the plate to pass the wire leads through. Good luck and call out if I can add anything. ...Don

P.S. If you use the 3M double sided trim tape (Advanced Auto, WalMart, etc.) you can layer it on the back plate to build up for any unevenness.

The instructions I gave above were not for an LED light string. I actually replaced my mirror.

Mirror.jpg
 
The instructions I gave above were not for an LED light string. I actually replaced my mirror.

View attachment 89556

I did the same thing and I agree that the back plate will warp very easy (first attempt) and if you do not use enough heat you will break the glass and have to spend $200 for a new assembly (don't ask) What I discovered on my third attempt is if you pry the bottom of the glass out with a thin putty knife just far enough to spray WD-40 in the opening and soak it down it will take less heat to peel the glass off without breakage and warpage + the WD-40 works great for helping remove the factory tape.
 
Faster rate

Ok, now that my LED lights are installed on the upper part of the mirrors (and yes I can see them much better than the little arrows on the dash), the turn signals blink faster. Can I just change the flasher (like to old days :) in my 68 Firebird) to a heavy duty flasher?

Thanks
Bogie
 
Ok, now that my LED lights are installed on the upper part of the mirrors (and yes I can see them much better than the little arrows on the dash), the turn signals blink faster. Can I just change the flasher (like to old days :) in my 68 Firebird) to a heavy duty flasher?

Thanks
Bogie

you should have gotten 12 volt leds they would have worked with out anything i would say junk then and get 12 volt leds or you can get this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281047515091?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


also i had seen Bob post this
I came across a Technical Service article regarding your turn signal. In most cases, the problem can be cured by performing a cluster recalibration. You can bring the unit in any time and we’d be happy to do it or you can follow these simple steps:
1. Turn key on
2. Press and hold the hazard button for 30 seconds
3. The cluster lights will flash confirming the calibration has been successful.
 
Last edited:
Turn Signals are flashing slower now

Mastertek2000,
Thank you for the info on how to re-sequence the turn signals
(I would never have guessed)
They are back to "normal"
Ill keep that in mind in case they change when the trailer is connected.
Ride Safe!
Bogie
 
Mastertek2000,
Thank you for the info on how to re-sequence the turn signals
(I would never have guessed)
They are back to "normal"
Ill keep that in mind in case they change when the trailer is connected.
Ride Safe!
Bogie

glad i and bob could help
 
Hello,
I purchased a set of amber LED lights to mount on my mirrors, but the instructions are
not real clear on how to remove the mirror/cover for wiring.
So....before I break something can someone explain exactly how they come off?
Thanks for your help!
Regards
Bogie

You do not have to take the mirrors apart. After you pop them off, as Bob described, you can splice into the wiring. Pull the wiring out of the body of the bike. There is a disconnect inside the Tupperware. I got Amber LED's from AutoZone that have a 3M adhesive backing, 4 inches each, drilled a very small hole (1/8") ? in the face of the mirror housing, spliced the wires hot/ground and it works like a charm. About 15 minutes each side. Sorry, tried to upload a vid, but it didn't work.
 
Back
Top