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LED Mirror Turn signal lights
- Thread starter Bogie
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
Most damage to the keyhole clips comes from improper or overly physical removal of the mirrors. I have never broken a clip on two RT's, although the mirrors have been removed frequently. To remove without damage I recommend the following:
1. Place one hand at the back of the mirror near the outer edge of the glass. This hand should apply light pressure toward the front to keep you from moving the mirror to far and breaking the clip.
2. With the other hand, rap against the front puter edge to pop the front spring clip loose. I describe the force of the hit as "firm, but gentle". A sharp, short rap is all you need. Do not tug or push, and be sure to resist with the other hand.
3. Move the backup hand to the top outer portion of the housing.
4. From underneath, rap upward with the other hand to pop the lower spring clip loose.
5. Gently lift straight up on the mirror assembly, about 1/2", then pull outward to slip the latch pin from the keyhole clip.
6. Pull the wires from inside the console until the wiring connector is clear of the body. An untrimmed wire tie on the cable will prevent the connector from falling back inside, when it too is pulled clear of the body.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to straighten the spring clips before you reinstall, so they are straight and parallel. Lightly lubing the latch pins helps, too.
This is directly from the "Scotty-Files"... :thumbup:
1. Place one hand at the back of the mirror near the outer edge of the glass. This hand should apply light pressure toward the front to keep you from moving the mirror to far and breaking the clip.
2. With the other hand, rap against the front puter edge to pop the front spring clip loose. I describe the force of the hit as "firm, but gentle". A sharp, short rap is all you need. Do not tug or push, and be sure to resist with the other hand.
3. Move the backup hand to the top outer portion of the housing.
4. From underneath, rap upward with the other hand to pop the lower spring clip loose.
5. Gently lift straight up on the mirror assembly, about 1/2", then pull outward to slip the latch pin from the keyhole clip.
6. Pull the wires from inside the console until the wiring connector is clear of the body. An untrimmed wire tie on the cable will prevent the connector from falling back inside, when it too is pulled clear of the body.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to straighten the spring clips before you reinstall, so they are straight and parallel. Lightly lubing the latch pins helps, too.
This is directly from the "Scotty-Files"... :thumbup:
Texas
New member
Bogie, I'm guessing your refering to the cover that is behind the mirror and above the turn signal. If this is the case, there are no clear instructions on removing this cover. In fact, from my personal experience, it appears that BRP intended on this cover being installed, but never removed. There are at least a few of us who have broken the little, brittle plastic clips that hold the cover onto the housing. Hot glue works to fix this issue, but once done, I don't believe you would be able to remove and reinstall again without needing to purchase a new cover.
I've taken 90%+ of every panel off the Spyder more than once. From dealing with many other brands of bikes, I think BRP did a great job of making these panels removable/reinstalled multiple times...with the exception of the cover you are refering to.
Good luck, and take your time. It requires a lot of patience.
Pennyrick
New member
Removing the mirrors is the easy part. Opening the mirror assembly so that you can hide the wires to the LED's is virtually impossible. Yol Bolson has done it but when he tried to explain it to me, I failed to comprehend how it was done.
I gave it two tries and the LED's remain on a shelf in the garage.
I believe it is true that Can Am did not intend for this assembly to come apart.
jcthorne
Well-known member
Have installed the leds on the back of the mirrors for both of our RTs and helped 4 others do theirs. Not without incident. They are not easy to get apart and remove the glass.
To take apart the housings, you can see some of the keyhole clips from an end view once you have the mirror assy off the bike. If you use a small flat screwdriver to release those clips and SLOWLY pry the cover open like a book, the clip on the other end that you cannot access will USUALLY let go without breakage.
To take apart the housings, you can see some of the keyhole clips from an end view once you have the mirror assy off the bike. If you use a small flat screwdriver to release those clips and SLOWLY pry the cover open like a book, the clip on the other end that you cannot access will USUALLY let go without breakage.
Texas
New member
FWIW, the retail price on that little cover is $85-$100 depending on the one you need (RT/RT-S/RT-L). It's almost like they knew this was going to be a highly sought after item. I say this because it shouldn't cost more than $20, and if that were the case, I wouldn't care about the fact that the plastic is brittle and is not made to remove. But given the high cost of the item, it makes you want to repair the one you have.
revjvegas
New member
Just did mine.
I find that you have to remove the colored bit off the mirror first, then you can get the lower black bit off.
Just go slow and if you can get a very small flat head screw driver in there to help free a couple of the tabs, it helps.
Like mentioned though, be careful as they will not take much flex before they give out and break.
I find that you have to remove the colored bit off the mirror first, then you can get the lower black bit off.
Just go slow and if you can get a very small flat head screw driver in there to help free a couple of the tabs, it helps.
Like mentioned though, be careful as they will not take much flex before they give out and break.
Bob Denman
New member
You don't have to split the housings apart to run the wires...
If you hold your tongue JUST right :shocked:; you can fish the wires down into the housing, and grab them with some wire that's got a bit of a hook bent on it...
If you hold your tongue JUST right :shocked:; you can fish the wires down into the housing, and grab them with some wire that's got a bit of a hook bent on it...
cuznjohn
New member
i did it on my 13 and to be honest it is not all that bad
Bob Denman
New member
I'm still not that brave... :shocked:
I've got the TricLEDs indicator lights on my shelf; waiting for an opportune moment... :thumbup:
I've got the TricLEDs indicator lights on my shelf; waiting for an opportune moment... :thumbup:
finless
New member
I just took my mirrors apart recently for a 2nd time to add the BRP chrome tops.
It's really not that hard you just have to know where to pry in the proper places.
The BRP instructions were pretty clear on how to do it and it was much easier following those than the first time I did it figuring it out on my own. Yes if your not careful you can break off the lock tabs inside.
If someone would like I can scan those isntructions and post them?
As for prying the actual mirror apart, I can't help there.
Bob
It's really not that hard you just have to know where to pry in the proper places.
The BRP instructions were pretty clear on how to do it and it was much easier following those than the first time I did it figuring it out on my own. Yes if your not careful you can break off the lock tabs inside.
If someone would like I can scan those isntructions and post them?
As for prying the actual mirror apart, I can't help there.
Bob
gnirtsnod
New member
I just did mine as well. Because of my apprehension, I turned the task of opening up the mirror assembly over to my son-in-law who doesn't know how to delay gratification. He opened it up like a Christmas present. There are a couple of tabs you can coerce loose then get at the remaining tab. It takes focus and gentle but firm prying. The real issue is getting the mirror off the swivel plate (mirror adjustment back plate). Use heat sparingly to begin prying the mirror off because the back plate is thin and will warp and it is difficult if not impossible reform it. (Ask me how I know - no don't.) Be patient and persistent at this stage. There is a single screw, spring, and spring cap in the center of the swivel. The plate has to be dremeled to accommodate the back of the LEDs and my 2012 had a slotted hole already formed in the plate to pass the wire leads through. Good luck and call out if I can add anything. ...Don
P.S. If you use the 3M double sided trim tape (Advanced Auto, WalMart, etc.) you can layer it on the back plate to build up for any unevenness.
cuznjohn
New member
it would be nice if you can scan and post the diagram i am sure people would love to know how to do it
Bob Denman
New member
bullant12
New member
The ones by TricLED you do not open the mirror, you drill at certain spots.
Bob Denman
New member
Yup! :thumbup: 
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