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Krikit II / Gate Tension Gauge Setting

Crisis

New member
Hi, does anyone know the number to set my belt tension at with the above gauge. 2008 GS. I also have the Smooth Syder Belt Tensioner installed.
Thanks
 
You cannot adjust or check belt tension with the belt idler engaged. You will have to back it off (so it doesn't touch the belt) for testing or adjusting.
 
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You cannot adjust or check belt tension with the belt idler engaged. You will have to back it off (so it doesn't touch the belt) for testing or adjusting.

I did... it didn't seem to change the readings to any great degree. Even the BRP guys in Maggie Valley wanted to leave it engaged while setting my belt tension... they basically said "If this is how you're riding it then we want to adjust it like it is".

Considering the tensioner is on the bottom and you take the readings on the top... and the tensioner only adds like 10 lbs of upward force, I doubt it will affect the reading. The top of the belt is taunt between the rear hub and front sprocket with the gear teeth holding it taunt....I don't think the tensioner can pull enough to pull on the belt across all those teeth to any degree.
 
I did... it didn't seem to change the readings to any great degree. Even the BRP guys in Maggie Valley wanted to leave it engaged while setting my belt tension... they basically said "If this is how you're riding it then we want to adjust it like it is".

Considering the tensioner is on the bottom and you take the readings on the top... and the tensioner only adds like 10 lbs of upward force, I doubt it will affect the reading. The top of the belt is taunt between the rear hub and front sprocket with the gear teeth holding it taunt....I don't think the tensioner can pull enough to pull on the belt across all those teeth to any degree.
I tend to agree.....if the adjustment is done carefully and properly. Keep in mind, that the tensioner supplier recommends disengaging it, however. When checking tension, the belt should only be turned in a forward direction before and during checking, the tension should be checked in the center of the top run, and the tension should be checked in at least three places along the belt. Failure to do this could (and has) result in vastly incorrect tension. I would not check with the Spyder jacked up and the rear wheel dropped, without disengaging the idler. The effects from the extra slack are unpredictable. If the tension is checked with the sonic meter, the tensioner should absolutely be disengaged...for a variety of reasons. JMHO
 
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Is the reading I am looking for 160 - 180?
Too high, in my opinion. It also depends on how you check it...Sypder jacked up with rear wheel hanging and off the grround, Spyder swingarm jacked up with rear wheel off the ground, or Spyder on the ground. The best way is to measure after a dealer adjustment to establish a baseline, then go with your comparable Krikit reading.
 
Is the reading I am looking for 160 - 180?

That poundage may cause failure of the rear wheel bearings and the output shaft bearings of the transmission. I run about 130 to 140 lbs. with out a belt idler. An belt idler is only to take to slack out of the belt and stop vibration. A belt idler is on my Spyder's to do list. That's IMHO.

Mike
 
belt tension

I set my belt tension on my 2011 rt at 140/140 using the krikit guage any idea what that would equate to on the 2013 rt which is 1050 +/- 150N
 
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