• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

jack points

wiredgeorge

New member
The user manual hasn't been read cover to cover yet... only had it one day. The manual suggest "manually lifting the front end" in order to turn the front shock pre-load ring. They claim if you don't damage can occur... well anyway I doubt I am strong enough to manually lift the front end and adjust the preload at the same time. I would prefer a jack and jackstands. What is the easiest way? I have a motorcycle lift and a transmission jack. I have jackstands. How woiuld I plaace the jackstands if adjusting preload? Doesn't seem to make sense to use ramps as the springs on the shocks wouild still be fully loaded.
 
As you didn't state what year Spyder you have is it safe to assume 2010-2012. Yes the shocks have to be unloaded to adjust them. You said you have ramps so drive up on them and then slide a jack under the frunk and locate the jack so the jack point is on the most forward part of the frame behind the frunk. Jack it up and remove one ramp, have someone put pressure on the wheel that still has the ramp under it. Adjust the shock and replace the ramp. go to the other side and repeat.
 
Depends..!

what you have in the way of jacks. A stands don't work in this case the wheel needs to hang. Floor jack under the end of the frame behind the frunk or what many use is the atv/motorcycle lift...
attachment.php
great if your going to do your own work...harbor freight (blue) craftman sears (yellow)..:thumbup:
 

Attachments

  • 20150227_120004.jpg
    20150227_120004.jpg
    60.3 KB · Views: 959
I have a 2010 RT and didn't lift it up. I adjusted it with the spanner wrench in the kit. Granted it turns hard, but it'll go.
 
I have a 2010 RT and didn't lift it up. I adjusted it with the spanner wrench in the kit. Granted it turns hard, but it'll go.

I will see if my floor jack can slide under first before turning the preload adjuster. Ain't a big deal. Mine is red and I bought it 30 years ago. The bottle jack leaks a bit but if you put the safety arms in place it is very solid. I think the transmssion jack will work as well if you set it slightly off center at the point that has been described; I think the RT will come up with only one side off the ground and I think as long as you have weight off that side, the adjuster will turn pretty easily.

Thanks to all... this is a fine place!
 
I have a 2010 RT and didn't lift it up. I adjusted it with the spanner wrench in the kit. Granted it turns hard, but it'll go.
lucky that it turned, the first ones were cast and would break when you used the wrench.
 
CLEARANCE

I will see if my floor jack can slide under first before turning the preload adjuster. Ain't a big deal. Mine is red and I bought it 30 years ago. The bottle jack leaks a bit but if you put the safety arms in place it is very solid. I think the transmssion jack will work as well if you set it slightly off center at the point that has been described; I think the RT will come up with only one side off the ground and I think as long as you have weight off that side, the adjuster will turn pretty easily.

Thanks to all... this is a fine place!
If you don't have clearance ( and some floor jacks won't go low enough ).....just roll the Spyder up onto some 2 X 6 pieces of wood first this will give plenty of room for any type of floor jack.........;Mike :thumbup:
 
If you don't have clearance ( and some floor jacks won't go low enough ).....just roll the Spyder up onto some 2 X 6 pieces of wood first this will give plenty of room for any type of floor jack.........;Mike :thumbup:

I figured... my Roadsmith trike had about 3" clearance so I have 4x4s I drive up on and already have 1 home made lumber ramp for driving up onto to gain the clearance (one front wheel/ one wood ramp).
 
Using someone else's suggestion I found that driving onto a couple of 3/4" plywood sheets gives me just enough clearance to slide the Craftsman lift under the frame. It's a tight fit but it does work.
 
what you have in the way of jacks. A stands don't work in this case the wheel needs to hang. Floor jack under the end of the frame behind the frunk or what many use is the atv/motorcycle lift...
attachment.php
great if your going to do your own work...harbor freight (blue) craftman sears (yellow)..:thumbup:


Can not quote colors as I have a Craftsman and its red, but I've had it probably 10 years.
 
what you have in the way of jacks. A stands don't work in this case the wheel needs to hang. Floor jack under the end of the frame behind the frunk or what many use is the atv/motorcycle lift...
attachment.php
great if your going to do your own work...harbor freight (blue) craftman sears (yellow)..:thumbup:

What are you lifting on ? Is it all real solid material under there so it does not matter where the jack is ? I dont want to bend or puncture anything. I have a ST-L V-twin. Thanks !
 
What are you lifting on ? Is it all real solid material under there so it does not matter where the jack is ? I dont want to bend or puncture anything. I have a ST-L V-twin. Thanks !


My RT has a couple feet of flat steel about 8" across that seems to be great for lifting the whole front end. Most under bike work is probably best done after driving onto some ramps but if you have to mess with the wheels, shocks, etc. a motorcycle floor jack is the ticket as the A arms are not taking any weight.
 
Back
Top