TerryTheSpyderRyder
Member
I've set the belt tension with the wheels on the ground, to 200 with the Krikit II. Is this too tight? The trike is a 2017 F3-S, and it seems to ride nicely.
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Is this Krikit Belt Tension still too tight?
- Thread starter TerryTheSpyderRyder
- Start date
You have to experiment but at 180 you are in the ballpark. I run 160 on my RT and I still get intermittent vibration between 60 and 65 MPH. Not nearly as bad as before, but it is still detectable occasionally. I don't think you will ever achieve ZERO vibration. I had a dampener, but after a short time the bearings on it became sloppy, so I zip-tied it up out of the way to save it from coming apart and shredding my belt.
Mikey
Well-known member
If I were you, I would take the two bolts out of the bracket and throw it in the trash!
Gwolf
Well-known member
Not sure where you are getting the numbers from, but I have been working on the FAQ about belt tension and from what I found off site many of the dealership techs are setting all Spyders the same tension. Then I found one U-Tube that makes it clear that the F3 series and the heavier touring machines use two different settings.This is because the belts are not all the same and the lighter machines have a lighter belt. I don't think it is about the weight of the machines at all, but about the two different size rear pulleys requiring longer or shorter belts. There is a place in the Repair and Service Manuals which give the setting, but they give it in Newtons and you have to convert that to pounds of pressure in order to use the Krikit, because the Krikit doesn't have a Newton scale. I rode and worked on a lot of Harley Sportsters before buying the Spyder and know that there are different pulleys that require different length belts for the 883 cc Sportsters and the 1200 cc Sportsters. Same deal with the larger pulleys on the heavier Spyders. Larger rear pulley is like gearing down and providing more torque to the rear wheel for the heavier machines. They will have the longer belts and different belt tension settings.
The figure given in the manuals is plus or minus 150 Newtons on the F3, which is the only Manual I have easy access to. That means it can vary up to 34 pounds each way. The manual doesn't get you close to any setting. I recently posted another addition to the FAQ @ https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/faqs-frequently-asked-questions.164841/
What information I have located on it is there. There is a service bulletin came out a couple years back. Some people on U-Tube wave it around and talk about it, but ain't seen a readable copy yet. The dealer supposed to have it, but I am far from any dealer and if they do actuallyu have it, they may not even know they have it. The bulletin was supposed to be about lowering the belt tension.
Baja Ron probably knows about the bulletin and the different belt lengths. If he gets by here, maybe he can help out with the different tension requirements, but he is working and I don't like to disturb people who are working. There are so few who really work anymore. A shop that does belt and tire replacements should have the repair and Service Manuals for all different models and the tension limits would be in there, even if it is huge slot from the minimum to the max.
The figure given in the manuals is plus or minus 150 Newtons on the F3, which is the only Manual I have easy access to. That means it can vary up to 34 pounds each way. The manual doesn't get you close to any setting. I recently posted another addition to the FAQ @ https://www.spyderlovers.com/threads/faqs-frequently-asked-questions.164841/
What information I have located on it is there. There is a service bulletin came out a couple years back. Some people on U-Tube wave it around and talk about it, but ain't seen a readable copy yet. The dealer supposed to have it, but I am far from any dealer and if they do actuallyu have it, they may not even know they have it. The bulletin was supposed to be about lowering the belt tension.
Baja Ron probably knows about the bulletin and the different belt lengths. If he gets by here, maybe he can help out with the different tension requirements, but he is working and I don't like to disturb people who are working. There are so few who really work anymore. A shop that does belt and tire replacements should have the repair and Service Manuals for all different models and the tension limits would be in there, even if it is huge slot from the minimum to the max.
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Gwolf
Well-known member
If the 2017 F3 has the same numbers in the Repair & Service Manual as my 2019 F3, then the Newtons would convert to 174 pounds of pressure, plus or minus 34 pounds. The slot is 140 pounds to 208 pounds. You are within the range, but could probably go lower. It would depend on the belt vibration if there is any to determine exactly how loose or tight it needs to be and stay in the slot allowances.
Gwolf
Well-known member
The manual says with the wheel off the floor and high enough the rear suspension is fully extended. That gives more consistent readings. If you have it sitting on the floor almost empty fuel tank and nothing in saddle bags or trunk one time, and the next time you check it with full fuel tank, saddle bags loaded for long trip, and food, water, tent, sleeping bags, and the cat sleeping on the seat, the reading will not be the same.
Common sense and geometry tells you that the only way the belt could have the same tension through the full movement of the suspension is if the rear wheel forward suspension pivot was in the center of the front belt pulley. It is not.
Found more information on this. The Can Am engineers are aware of the tighter and looser spots depending on the suspension compression. This is new information I found on the web.
Normal suspension compression on a Can-Am Spyder causes the final drive belt to tighten and then loosen as the suspension travels through its arc. This occurs because the rear swingarm's pivot point is separate from the output shaft, altering the distance between the drive and rear sprockets as the suspension moves.
How suspension travel affects belt tension
- Pivot point geometry: Unlike many motorcycles where the swingarm and drive sprocket share a pivot point, the Spyder's design means the distance between the drive pulley and the rear sprocket changes with suspension travel. The belt will be at its tightest when the two pulleys are at their maximum distance from each other.
- Design assumptions: Can-Am engineers set the initial belt tension to operate within a proper range during normal suspension movement, such as going over bumps. The suspension setting should be adjusted to compensate for additional weight (like a passenger) to maintain this intended operating range.
- Consequences of improper setup:
- Low suspension: If the suspension is consistently too low for the load, the bike runs deeper into the suspension travel than intended. This can cause the belt to be constantly too tight, leading to issues.
- Excessive tightness: An overly tight belt can cause premature wear on the belt and put excessive stress on the output shaft and rear wheel bearings, potentially leading to bearing failure.
- Excessive looseness: While compression tightens the belt, if the static tension is too loose, the belt can experience excessive vibration, especially during acceleration and deceleration. This "belt slap" can be uncomfortable for the rider and cause extra wear.
- Stock suspension adjustments: Some Can-Am Spyder models, like the RT, feature air-adjustable rear suspension to compensate for rider and passenger weight. For models without a self-leveling system, riders must manually adjust the rear shock's air pressure.
- Aftermarket tensioners: Aftermarket products, such as belt idlers and spring-loaded tensioners, are available to help maintain more consistent belt tension throughout the suspension's range of motion. These are designed to reduce belt vibration and prolong the life of drivetrain components, especially when riding under a heavier load.
- Vibration troubleshooting: When experiencing vibration, some riders experiment with adjusting the belt tension within the recommended specifications to find a "sweet spot" that minimizes the vibration at their normal cruising speed. An aftermarket belt tensioner is often the most effective solution for consistent belt flutter.
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Gwolf
Well-known member
Most of the critical information on the belt tension was collected and now is all together with links to most of it, on the 7th tab of the FAQ Spyder general Discussion.
TerryTheSpyderRyder
Member
Thanks, there doesn't appear to be any vibration or noise. I also have a belt tensioner that rides on the top portion of the belt run.
Mikey
Well-known member
To me, if you have the dampener, you should prop that up while you do the adjustment, then check the bearing in it for wear, and only then put it back in service when you're done, if you think you need it! Myself, when I do my spring service, I am going to see how bad my new bike vibrates without the dampener in play, and I'll take it off if I can stand it - keep it stupid simple, and trouble free is my motto!!
I think it's easier to remove and replace the zipties than to remove that tupperware and replace those mounting bolts. I've often wondered just how long zipties last? 20K, 50K, 100K? Next time I'm in there, I'll replace them; or what the hey, just add another ziptie. LOLIf I were you, I would take the two bolts out of the bracket and throw it in the trash!
TerryTheSpyderRyder
Member
I've had that dampener for a couple of years and left it alone. Are you talking about the bearing in the dampener?
Mikey
Well-known member
Yes, in the roller, watch it! That's a small bearing and it's spinning VERY fast under a good amount of stress!! The last thing you want is a shredded belt in the middle of a ride!
To each his own, if you have that much trouble taking the panels off and taking two bolts out, I guess more zip-ties will work!!
Gwolf
Well-known member
Better replacement:
I have run 120 - 140 via the Krikit with the vehicle loaded/sitting on the ground for over 10 years. Especially when the engine mounted drive sprockets were failing and some transmission shafts, prior to a solution from BRP. The swing arm geometry increases belt tension as it is compressed. That's why many people recommend removing the rear shock bolt to drop the swing arm while changing a tire (vs slacking off the belt tensioners). Prove it to yourself: check tension with rear wheel in the air and with the machine on the ground: the Krikit value will increase 20-30 lbs.
Dasmoetorhead
Well-known member
On my F3S the tension is set at 220 with the krikit gauge, and has been at that setting for 13,000 miles.
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