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Is there a solution here?

Seen someone do this

They had a two-axle trailer, I don't know how long, but longer than the RT was. They unhooked the trailer from the hitch, tilted the trailer, and drove up the trailer. The trailer did have a short ramp that made the pitch too steep for the RT. He used tire blocks to keep the trailer from rolling once the trailer flattened out. I did not see him unload the RT, but he said it works good, just like loading it. I told him he was a braver man than I was, but for him it worked.
 
Hi Tom,

How long is the ramp and transition flap? Would like to know make if it was a new purchase. Is that with tax and shipping?

Joe


New, $5500 plus tax. Transition flap is 12" I think. Rear door 6' long? I 'm guessing here. I can measure tomorrow. :thumbup: Tom :spyder:
 
Open Verses Enclosed Trailering

I have made many winter trips from northern Ohio to Florida Via I-75 and have always encountered heavy salting conditions at least part of the way. I consider open trailering over wet salted roads the same as dipping them in sea water, at this point most insurance companys render a vehicle a total loss. Covering them with a tarp or full cover can make the situation even worse. In my humble opinion the only solution is an enclosed trailer. Now, I have never transversed I-95 in the winter so I do not know the salting conditions one may encounter. Water and dirt is one thing, salt and the additives to it are another.

Good luck in finding a solution.

By the way, the wife and I are trying out the new toy hauler rv this weekend. A Vengeance 29V :ohyea:

I will be putting my 6 x 12 Stealth all aluminum trailer up for sale later this summer.
 
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I don't haul my Spyder often enough to justify spending a lot of money on a trailer either. I use a 6'x8' utility trailer with a few little modifications. If your ramp is to steep, this is how I made it work for me.

doesn't this configuration put too much weight in your hitch?
 
All aluminum 77 inch wide by 12 ft. Hydraulic tilt bed.....drive right on...tie down and drive away.

Thanks for the pic's Buggy. I was just looking at that trailer on Friday and wondering how it would work to pull behind my RV. I guess I'll have to go purchase one this week.

Do you happen to remember the part numbers for the rails?

Happy travels,
dc8cappie
 
Hi Bob,

No way. I have no ramp on my trailer and the height is 17 inches. I tried that with 6ft ramps. No way. The middle of the bike gets jammed up. The rear wheel needs a lift. I may try to order 10ft arched ramp system that I saw online. Thanks for the write back.

Joe : )

17" load height is on the tall side... :shocked:
The longer ramps that you've mentioned should hold the cure; IF you've got the room to load them on the trailer also. :thumbup:
 
I rented an enclosed 6x12 uhaul trailer to bring mine back from FL. Problem was that it didn't have a ramp. Went to Home Depot and bought 2 sets of ramp kits, some 2x10 which I cut to 4', and a piece of 3/4 plywood which I cut in half at the store. Wound up making a 4' long ramp with 3 supports underneath. It was a smidge short so I wound up getting stuck halfway up, but I found that if I found a curb and backed up and put the ramp on the curb, it worked fine. It was a cheap solution and I just carried the ramp inside the trailer.

I will say that I own an open 6x12 utility trailer which I chose not to take to FL. I was glad to have the enclosed trailer as it protected the spyder from the elements and rocks thrown up by the rear wheels of my truck. It was an easy haul.
 
Thanks for the pic's Buggy. I was just looking at that trailer on Friday and wondering how it would work to pull behind my RV. I guess I'll have to go purchase one this week.

Do you happen to remember the part numbers for the rails?

Happy travels,
dc8cappie

sorry I don't have that info but it was bought from a Aluma dealer. It pulls great btw.
 
doesn't this configuration put too much weight in your hitch?
It shouldn't. The fore/aft balance point on the RT is just about where the front foot pegs are and that's only a foot or so forward of the trailer axle in the picture. :thumbup:
 
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I don't haul my Spyder often enough to justify spending a lot of money on a trailer either. I use a 6'x8' utility trailer with a few little modifications. If your ramp is to steep, this is how I made it work for me.

Awesome idea. Thank u so much for sharing.

Joe
 
I have made many winter trips from northern Ohio to Florida Via I-75 and have always encountered heavy salting conditions at least part of the way. I consider open trailering over wet salted roads the same as dipping them in sea water, at this point most insurance companys render a vehicle a total loss. Covering them with a tarp or full cover can make the situation even worse. In my humble opinion the only solution is an enclosed trailer. Now, I have never transversed I-95 in the winter so I do not know the salting conditions one may encounter. Water and dirt is one thing, salt and the additives to it are another.

Good luck in finding a solution.

By the way, the wife and I are trying out the new toy hauler rv this weekend. A Vengeance 29V :ohyea:

I will be putting my 6 x 12 Stealth all aluminum trailer up for sale later this summer.
Hi Frank,

I agree with everything u said. So I held out on the open trailer. Then went on Craig's List... and there it was. An enclosed 2005 Ironhorse trailer in great shape. When I went to see it... way in another town... It was a old friend that was selling it. I got it for $3,200.
Your wish for good luck worked. Thanks! :rolleyes:

Joe
 
This trailer is 17" high too.... and as you can see.....

Hi Bob,

No way. I have no ramp on my trailer and the height is 17 inches. I tried that with 6ft ramps. No way. The middle of the bike gets jammed up. The rear wheel needs a lift. I may try to order 10ft arched ramp system that I saw online. Thanks for the write back.

Joe : )

....as you can see, it can be done both ways with 6'5" ramps and the pin cranked to the highest level.

Richard
 
Three is a better option

It's actually pretty easy...
How long is the tailgate/ramp on your trailer?
(I assume that's what it has.)
What is the load height of the trailer?
What you'll need to do, is cut two pieces of 2x8 lumber. Make two of them about five feet long.
Place these ramps against the tailgate of your trailer, and let them extend rearward from the tailgate. You'll be riding your Spyder up onto these (Make sure that the front wheels land on them...), and then onto the tailgate.
This should be able to lessen the approach angle, and allow you to load the bike without dragging it's nose on the tailgate. :thumbup:

You'll need 3 2x8 ramps if you plan on having the rear wheel in the trailer. Also the longer the better depending on the height of your trail bed. I'm going with 84" planks as I don't want the angle to dig into my undercarriage.
 
Hi Frank,

I agree with everything u said. So I held out on the open trailer. Then went on Craig's List... and there it was. An enclosed 2005 Ironhorse trailer in great shape. When I went to see it... way in another town... It was a old friend that was selling it. I got it for $3,200.
Your wish for good luck worked. Thanks! :rolleyes:

Joe

Happy everything worked out for you.
 
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