HowTo: Installing billet aluminum fuel access door in RT seat

[UtahPete]

I've been a little frustrated over the years having to unlatch and lift the seat every time I fuel up. I finally decided to install an access door in the side of the seat to avoid having to do that any more. There have been a few threads on this topic and I gleaned a lot of good info from them.

I want to particularly acknowledge Mike (BlueKnight911) who came up with some easy workarounds to enable him to do this mod in the field at one or two rallies, something that would have been impossible using the time- and tool-intensive procedure I used. My process followed the steps outlined years ago by InspectorGadget, who has a website under that name. His procedure involves fabricating an aluminum backing ring, then drilling and tapping it so the faceplate has something substantial on the inside of the seat to which it can be attached with stainless steel screws. Mike simply used T-nuts for backing for the screws, a simple and inexpensive solution that functions just as well.

Most folks who did this procedure probably used a door made by Bully. When I went to buy one, they were not available, so I got this one instead from R&L Racing https://www.amazon.com/Racing-Matte-Black-Aluminum-1988-2000/dp/B07MVB4TQ1. I like it; it feels substantial and functional. It comes with nice M6 stainless steel screws, but they are all too short so I got an assortment of varying lengths from 35mm to 45mm at the local hardware store.

The first step is to dismantle the door and ring/frame so you're just working with the outside ring piece.

 

[UtahPete]

Preparing the seat for cutting a hole in it

The ring outside diameter is about 6-1/4". This fits neatly in the part of the seat that covers the fuel filler access on the left side. I am using the backing plate for demonstration purposes because it's easier to see in the pictures. If you're going with t-nuts instead, then use the ring that came with the door; just be careful not to mar the nice finish on it.

I clamped the ring on the outside of the seat where I wanted it, then used a soldering iron to melt the fabric at the screw locations (Mike used a hot nail). I also used a crayon to mark the inside of the ring. I then drilled holes through the seat pan deep enough to penetrate the other side. I used a 3/16" drill bit initially while the ring was still clamped in place, then enlarged the screw holes to 3/8" later to give the screws some wiggle room for easier alignment with the backing plate later. If you're using t-nuts instead, then just drill the holes once with a 1/4" bit.

Now, remove the clamp and plate and insert long screws or nails through the screw holes and place the ring onto them on the inside of the seat. Mark the inside of the ring; this is the piece you will cut out of the seat pan. If it appears the staples holding the fabric will interfere with the cutting, then remove those staples. Now remove the ring and temporary screws or nails.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Thanks for your posting on this topic .... on 7-6-21 I posted my method of doing it. ...... It was added to a very old thread by 2paws from 2-26-13 " DIY Fuel Door ". ... Mike :thumbup:

 

[UtahPete]

Cutting the hole in the seat

The hole is going to be about 4-1/2" in diameter. You're going to have to figure out how to cut this, using whatever tools and skills you have at your disposal. Lacking a large enough hole saw, I instead used a 1" hole saw to remove most material around the hole perimeter, then finished it off with a small hacksaw blade. A dremel might work better for this if you have one. Fortunately, except for pure pride of workmanship reasons, the hole doesn't need to be perfectly round; just don't make it too big or you won't have enough material for the ring screws to go into!

Before cutting the hole however, you must first expose the seat pan by cutting back the seat fabric and underlying foam. The best way, I think, is to cut pie-shaped slits in the fabric with a sharp knife, sort of like a pizza. Fold back those pie-shaped pieces and hold them out of the way with duct tape (or chewing gum..?) Then remove the foam, leaving the seat pan within the ring's inside diameter exposed. The seat pan can be cut from either side, whichever you find easiest.

Once the section of seat pan is removed, fold the flaps inside the hole and secure against the seat pan. I used superglue for this. Cover up the remaining raw edges of fabric and foam around the hole perimeter used flat black, strong fabric tape (I used gaffer tape). This is mostly for cosmetic reasons.

 

[UtahPete]

Attaching the fuel door to the seat.

At this point, reattach the door to its ring. Holding the assembled door up against the hole, align the screw holes in the ring with the screw holes in the seat and begin inserting the M6 (or 1/4") stainless steel screws and secure them on the inside with T-nuts. This should be fairly straightforward unless you have instead chosen to fabricate a billet backing plate (see next section).

The process of tightening the screws will cause the trapped foam and fabric to billow inwards a little. You want this door to be compressed as flat as you can get it against the pan, so it doesn't rub against your leg. Once tightened down, cut off the excess length of the screws inside so they don't scratch the body panel.

 

[UtahPete]

Fabricating a backing plate

If you're plucky enough to make a backing ring for the stainless steel screws instead of using T-nuts, be aware it is much more time consuming and problematic since the seat pan has a large bulge at the rearward part of the hole. So, after fabricating the backing ring and ensuring it is properly aligned with the screw holes, mark and remove the part of the ring at the bulge.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Fuel door

Just a few thoughts and advice ..... DO NOT USE a Large hole saw for making the large hole .... The seat pan is NOT flat, and the saw teeth are quite aggressive .... If the teeth GRAB the plastic ( and imho it's very likely ) it can be a disaster. ... I also made 1 1/2 in holes ( run the hole saw backwards ) and then finished with a Dremel using a very coarse stone..... And like Pete said making an inside ring is difficult and makes NO sense compared to " T " nuts. E-bay sells the doors at the lowest prices I have seen ...... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[UtahPete]

Thanks for your posting on this topic .... on 7-6-21 I posted my method of doing it. ...... It was added to a very old thread by 2paws from 2-26-13 " DIY Fuel Door ". ... Mike :thumbup:

"Yep " T " nuts are the way to go ..... the following year after this thread I began doing the Fuel Door as a vendor .... I had to come up with a much simpler method for doing them and I did...... There are other posts for my " streamlined method " on how I learned to do it easier. Using " T " nuts was one of them. ....

I also decided to make the first two holes by positioning the door RING against the seat and using the HOT nail to start the top an bottom holes ... then they could be safely drilled ....

Then using 1-1/2 x 1/4 in. bolts to COMPRESS the Ring onto the seat .... this makes doing the rest of the holes much easier and accurate, and while using the " T " nuts , you can use your final short bolts to assemble the finished product.

Those " T " nuts surface are only 1/32 nd of an inch thick so scratching the paint won't happen ...... good luck .... Mike"