Installation of car tire.

[vindex1963]

Recently replaced the rear tire on the RT. Removal and install really is easy and had a locally owned shop take the tire off the rim and mount the new one.
You will have to remove the center hub, that's easy also.

 

[shakin_jake]

While your analogy above is absolutely correct, Shakin Jake, and I agree with it completely, that is not the main issue with CanAm dealers and aftermarket tyres. I have two dealers near me, and both have not been willing to buy a non Can Am recommended tyre to install for me, and I have a pretty good relationship with them:thumbup: The issue is far more deep seated, with many theories posted, but it certainly appears to be along the lines of - “If you (insert dealer here) put on a non recommended Can Am tyre, we will revoke your dealer license....and/or you may be found liable if the CanAm is involved in an accident - signed CanAm”. Some dealers simply ignore this and install aftermarket, but most toe the CanAm company line.

Pete

~~~never thought of it that way Pete, & I guess it makes total sense for those dealers that do not want to jeopardize their relationship with BRP, only to screw it up installing aftermarket tires. Can't blame them really

Your sig line verbiage mentions you're using a Ru$$el Day-Long Saddle. I'd love to see what your trike looks like with their saddle. Could I talk you into posting a pic or two? If you feel it would be more apropriate to send one or two in a PM, please do. I've used three of their saddles over the years. Two were spec'd out by me while the third was originally built for Joe Zulaski on one of his ST 1100's, it was a dual custom in leather w/a back rest, and although Joe had it built for his weight which was less than I weigh, it still rode fine for me, a testament to the versatility of their (Day-Long) craft. I know I'm giving more detail than required but, Joe totaled that bike on the 02' Rendevous Rally, which I rode part of and didn't finish=:-( Another ST pilot bought his wrecked bike and parted it out. That's how I acquired his saddle. They really are fantastic saddles, especially if you ride big miles

 

[joekeys]

I put a car tire on my 2015 that was a little taller in size with no speed sensor problem. I ran it over 20,000 miles then replaced the front tires with car tires 3/4 inch taller and no problem.

 

[safecracker]

My local dealer will mount non OEM tires with no problem. They even told me that they may carry non OEM tires to sell. They have a great service dept. They just don't like to dicker on price of a new ryde.

 

[FastOldGuy]

I've worked in the Tire Industry for 5 years (way back). With an Mechanical Engineering Background I've done almost everything possible. The facts are all tires have Ratings. In the case of the Spyders as long as the Rim beads match, the weight on the tires are basically nothing compared to a Car. The speed sensor is Bull. I normally check Everything I own with a GPS because I Want To Know How Much The Speedometer Is Off!

Since I've changed about 20,000 tires in my early years. I still change my motorcycle tires. $129 to install a tire (.9 hours) Come On? From "Merlot's" post above, I like that rig. I have a 2x4 Square that I put the rim on and just change them with the old tire "spoons".

TIRE SIZE. From Merlot's post, I checked the sizes and it's a Limited Market on the Fronts and Rears. What other sizes are people running?

LAST BUT NOT LEAST... LASER ALIGNMENT. There's a Laser alignment system on the Web "Trackace Laser Wheel Alignment". Checking ebay the price is down $89.00. I made my own version from a Gun Bore Laser Sight. It's Accurate As It Gets. On the Spyder it would be a breeze. Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the Spyder has Castor or Camber adjustments.(?) I typically own Cars that I Can Not Take To A Shop so I have made tools to set Castor and Camber.

 

[h0gr1der]

I've worked in the Tire Industry for 5 years (way back). With an Mechanical Engineering Background I've done almost everything possible. The facts are all tires have Ratings. In the case of the Spyders as long as the Rim beads match, the weight on the tires are basically nothing compared to a Car. The speed sensor is Bull. I normally check Everything I own with a GPS because I Want To Know How Much The Speedometer Is Off!

Since I've changed about 20,000 tires in my early years. I still change my motorcycle tires. $129 to install a tire (.9 hours) Come On? From "Merlot's" post above, I like that rig. I have a 2x4 Square that I put the rim on and just change them with the old tire "spoons".

TIRE SIZE. From Merlot's post, I checked the sizes and it's a Limited Market on the Fronts and Rears. What other sizes are people running?

LAST BUT NOT LEAST... LASER ALIGNMENT. There's a Laser alignment system on the Web "Trackace Laser Wheel Alignment". Checking ebay the price is down $89.00. I made my own version from a Gun Bore Laser Sight. It's Accurate As It Gets. On the Spyder it would be a breeze. Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the Spyder has Castor or Camber adjustments.(?) I typically own Cars that I Can Not Take To A Shop so I have made tools to set Castor and Camber.

As to doing your own front end alignment, it's probably better to have the BUD's software. Some folks have done self alignment with good results without it, but if you find a problem you need to re-center the steering and something else I don't remember. Thrust? Someone will chime in I'm sure.

 

[shakin_jake]

I put the rim on and just change them with the old tire "spoons".

~~~that’s how I’ve been doing it ever since the mid seventies. Most tires are fairly easy to lever off the rim but I recall the rear Honda Silverwing (motor-scooter) I rode for a few years and changed several rears, it was the aspect ratio (IMO) that made it a challenge. That said, I don’t see where the Ryker Rally tire’s could pose any difficulties. For sure though, tires are always easier to R&R in the summer rather than changing outdoors in the winter, but in removing tires during cold weather I would always take the wheel/tire indoors and set beside the fireplace (I have two wood stoves in my Fla. homestead) to warm the rubber, make it far more pliable

 

[cptjam]

No, just toe in, toe out. I’ll check on the trackace. Joe

 

[cptjam]

Ok, just looked at it. Since it does not factor in the back wheel, or allow adjustments, adjust BUDS, etc, I’ll be happy to check anyone’s results. We have aligned quite a few that were “done”. The ROLO system is patented, and quite simply, works. I’m always open to new ideas, but this one, not so much. Joe

 

[FastOldGuy]

As to doing your own front end alignment, it's probably better to have the BUD's software. Some folks have done self alignment with good results without it, but if you find a problem you need to re-center the steering and something else I don't remember. Thrust? Someone will chime in I'm sure.

Thank You. Probably the trick is KEEP THE ORIGINAL STEERING POSITION. My Son's VW Jetta sensors the Steering Wheel. If the wheel is Not in the same position it will throw an Error. It's a trick to set the wheel back straight. So far I haven't seen the Toe-in spec on the Spyder. Mine feels like it has a Lot of Toe-in. When I get a chance I'll check it. (I read a BS post this morning where the Stealer told the Owner something like "Yea, we corrected the Alignment. It was .5 (or a 1/2)" and we changed it to .750" OUCH!) I set the Jetta to about 1/32 almost "0".

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

(I read a BS post this morning where the Stealer told the Owner something like "Yea, we corrected the Alignment. It was .5 (or a 1/2)" and we changed it to .750" OUCH!) I set the Jetta to about 1/32 almost "0".

That would be correct if he's talking about the toe-in being measured on the laser target about 6' in front and behind the front tire which is the way the ROLO system has you do it.