How many here are constantly hitting the Nanny Speed limit on curves

[PistonBlown]

I can keep up with them but am at probably my limit. I do feel like the tires are breaking loose and that is why I am leaning to the theory that Its the tires.

Reading through your earlier posts in this thread with the sideways comments etc I was thinking its the tires loosing grip. Of course once that happens nanny kicks in but its not the cause.

When I took a F3 out on a test ride with stock tires I did find it easy to overwelm the tires when in the twisties.

Is it a swaying sideways movement or a jarring one? With my RS whe rear tire went then it would be a softer feel, when the front has gone its very jarring feeling as it gains grip again.

What setting is your front suspension on?

 

[jcthorne]

Need to check the pillion switch to make sure the nanny does not think there is a passenger all the time.

Then I would suspect the tires given you already have a sway bar.

We have run into this a few times on RT models with heavier owners and installing spring adjusters or Elka front shocks has cured it but you say you have Elkas up front.

I really think you have a tire problem. Has your bike been laser aligned?

 

[AY4B]

Reading through your earlier posts in this thread with the sideways comments etc I was thinking its the tires loosing grip. Of course once that happens nanny kicks in but its not the cause.

When I took a F3 out on a test ride with stock tires I did find it easy to overwelm the tires when in the twisties.

Is it a swaying sideways movement or a jarring one? With my RS whe rear tire went then it would be a softer feel, when the front has gone its very jarring feeling as it gains grip again.

What setting is your front suspension on?

I have a Yokohama S drive on the rear and am still on the stock tires in the front. Baja Ron Sway Bar with lamonster Heim links and Elka Stage 2 front shocks. The bike has also been lazer aligned and has a belt tentioner from RR.
The trike riders in our group are excellent riders unlike many trike riders that I have ridden with. They have my respect as good leaders. Some of the roads around here can have bumps enough to cause side hopping when doing them 20+ MPH above the yellow suggested speed for that curve.
I also use a very accurate digital air chuck that sets the air pressure to the tenth of a pound but will continue to try to find the best pressure. Im thinking ill drop it down to 17 the next time. New tires may be the next thing to try whenever the funds allow it.

 

[AY4B]

Need to check the pillion switch to make sure the nanny does not think there is a passenger all the time.

Then I would suspect the tires given you already have a sway bar.

We have run into this a few times on RT models with heavier owners and installing spring adjusters or Elka front shocks has cured it but you say you have Elkas up front.

I really think you have a tire problem. Has your bike been laser aligned?

I have a ultimate seat that has a continuous pan unlike the stock seat that is divided up in the middle. You may have something because I am a heavy ryder. How do I disable that pillion switch? I never have a rider back there anyway. I remember on my ST I disconnected it and it caused an error on the computer.

 

[akbash]

Adjust your rebound on your front shocks you have them set too hard this is why you side jump when hitting those bumps you described. I had my fox shocks set too hard also and had the same problem softened them up with 3 clicks now the front end stays down and straight over those uneven bumpy roads. Check your rear shock also for adjustments.

 

[asp125]

Reproducible?

BEFORE you start messing with stuff, is this condition reproducible? Go find a clean road or level parking lot without obstructions and see if you can make it happen again. If it's a one time thing it might be that particular corner.

 

[AY4B]

BEFORE you start messing with stuff, is this condition reproducible? Go find a clean road or level parking lot without obstructions and see if you can make it happen again. If it's a one time thing it might be that particular corner.

You cant go fast enough in a parking lot to reproduce it but depending on how hot I go into a curve I can reproduce it on most curves.

 

[AY4B]

Adjust your rebound on your front shocks you have them set too hard this is why you side jump when hitting those bumps you described. I had my fox shocks set too hard also and had the same problem softened them up with 3 clicks now the front end stays down and straight over those uneven bumpy roads. Check your rear shock also for adjustments.

I have been going stiffer on my springs only to eliminate bottoming out but like you say I dont want to go too stiff on the springs. When I got the Elkas at Spyderfest, Pitbull was doing the install on all of them. I told them I am heavy and did not want any bottoming out. They adjusted the spring all the way up as far as it would go. I had to go back to get the tool to adjust it my self. I went too low and since have been going back up looking for that balance. Im pretty close but still bottom out from time to time. Glad I have a bump skid to protect my Spyder.

 

[kep-up]

I am thinking you may want to adjust your cornering technique. Setting up for the corner is imperative for nanny to stay in her place. Do all your slowing and braking BEFORE the curve, gearing down if necessary so you have power in reserve. Enter the curve with a smooth wrist and gradually twist the grip thus powering through the curve, exiting under power, just as yo would on a single track vehicle. While doing all this, be sure to transfer your weight to the outside peg, and your body weight to the forward inside of rhe spyder. (much like riding a snowmobile aggressively)

I have said it before, and I repeat it here:
Using the proper cornering technique, it is possible to float the inside wheel with absolutely NO INTERRUPTION from nanny.



2011 RSS SE5

 

[akbash]

I have been going stiffer on my springs only to eliminate bottoming out but like you say I dont want to go too stiff on the springs. When I got the Elkas at Spyderfest, Pitbull was doing the install on all of them. I told them I am heavy and did not want any bottoming out. They adjusted the spring all the way up as far as it would go. I had to go back to get the tool to adjust it my self. I went too low and since have been going back up looking for that balance. Im pretty close but still bottom out from time to time. Glad I have a bump skid to protect my Spyder.

When I said adjust rebound I meant for you to adjust your rebound with the rebound adjust dial your shocks have on them at the bottom of shock. Read your directions with shocks which way is stiffer or softer. With the fox shocks it tells you to turn dial all the way clock wise tell it stops then turn counter to soften rebound. They give you a number for your weight to rough adjust them too. I had mine 6 clicks from full stop found my front end was bouncing too much over bumps turned them another 3 clicks softer works very nice now. 9 clicks was the recommended start position fox recommends for my weight and it works nice. I also adjusted my rear shocks which have even more adjustments than the front have.

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: At SpyderFest 2013: I got so that I could "bicycle" my RT any time that I wanted to...
And subsequently: have Nanny shut me down. :banghead:
Noe of it ever involved being smooth behind the bars...nojoke

 

[AY4B]

:agree: At SpyderFest 2013: I got so that I could "bicycle" my RT any time that I wanted to...
And subsequently: have Nanny shut me down. :banghead:
Noe of it ever involved being smooth behind the bars...nojoke

What do you mean by bicycle?

 

[Bob Denman]

... Picking a front tire off of the pavement: on two wheels!

 

[kep-up]

Perhaps the RSS nanny expects and tolerates a bit more aggression in the right wrist?

That being said, entering a curve off throttle and a bit hot will get nanny roiled up like right now. Not dangerous, but a bit un-nerving.

 

[DGoebel]

Are the Nanny interruptions after long straight-aways or even in multiple tight curves or both, just askin. I followed two F3's driven by very experienced fast drivers usually 20 or more mph over posted yellow curve speed signs and only felt one down hill S curve tire roll and never felt the the Nanny kick in.
Here's a pic of the section we were on,

 

[Hypurone]

From Day one when I drove the new F3 home I turned off on a road I like to run and the first curve, it kicked in and I went WTF was that!

Now with mine, it was just fine UNTIL...... I had the first service done and they did some "update" on it and now mine is like yours. Ripping along just fine but if the bars are turned a certain amount while cornering, REGARDLESS of speed, the Nanny f*cks everything up! It will do it at 35, it will do it at 55. Doesn't matter the speed, but if I turn the bars more than it "thinks" I should, BAM! The party is over... I asked them to take the update out and got the standard answer, which I'm sure everyone hear has been given at one point or another.... :banghead:

 

[bcer960]

we also had a harrowing Spencerian where we were going around a tight(ish) corner, two up, and the nanny kicked in and sent into the oncoming traffic lane. Luckily for us, there was no one in the lane at the time, but I was at least 3' into that lane before I could get control again.

Now this has only happened once (thankfully) every other time I have had the nanny "help" me out, it has been fine, just slowing the bike down.

I also have shock stiffeners and Ron's sway bar. Though i do not think I had the stiffeners on at the time when this happened.

Ray

 

[wingit3611]

I gotta agree with the 'if you are ryding with conventional trikes' and the 'something else is going on' bits, but I'd suggest 'substantially incorrect' tire pressure is probably a better way of putting it rather than just singling out 'low' as a likely culprit!!

Tire pressure that's substantially too low OR too high could be contributing to inducing abnormal Nanny interventions, but from my experience & the testimony of others, you can go pretty low in tire pressure with most 'non-Kenda' 50 to 70 profile tires on your Spyder and most won't usually experience any adverse input or reaction from the Nanny!! Some have even run pressures as low as 8psi on 'real' tires without any abnormal Nanny reactions, & from what I've heard about those others doing this, you really couldn't call their riding style anything less than 'spirited'!! :shocked: Personally, I generally run 14-18psi all round in my 'slightly larger than OE Spec Car tires' on my Spyder without any adverse or even regular input from the Nanny, & I don't think too many would classify my riding style as anything much less than 'spirited' either - in fact, some have been known to use somewhat more colourful terms!! But the only time the Nanny intervenes is when something is really very close to 'the limit' & for me, not once has that intervention been anything less than safely manageable & clearly beneficial/helpful!! Never has it thrown the Spyder sideways EXCEPT when that was what my control input called for, and even then, every time it has been absolutely controllable & clearly life-saving!! I'd hafta say that in my experience, the Nanny really works well at doing what it was designed to do! :thumbup:

There again, if you are still running OE Spec Kendas, there's a good chance that that's probably contributing to your issues & all bets are off!! Sure, if you happen to be lucky enough to get a good set of Kendas, they can be sorta good.... but if, like many of us, you got even just one 'bad' Kenda, let alone three of the blighters (something which is seemingly something very easy to do!!) then they can be very VERY bad in terms of their impact on your ride & handling!! :yikes:

So AY4B, after you consider all the above & how it applies to you/your Spyder & then adjusting as necessary, if your Spyder still has a Nanny that's misbehaving as badly as in the manner you describe, I'd hafta say it sounds like there is something else odd going on.... :dontknow:

You left out what Brand of tires & Level of the brand. Help a new guy

 

[DGoebel]

I know this is only 0.0x% of Spyders, but are we seeing a trend that this is occurring on newer bikes that have received recent BRP updates?
Though I know I was chasing a 2016 F3 driven by Les, and the other Les was out in the lead with his likely 2018 F3 and I'm sure I would've noticed or heard from them if their Nanny kicked in at all. And we were screaming through the corners.
I know AY4B said the Nanny couldn't be forced to kick in in a parking lot, but would a less traveled, quiet, back road straight away with a coned "S" curve be set up down the centerline, and navigating it at set speeds (do you have Cruise on your F3?) to determine at what speed the Nanny is kicking in? Then another willing rider could try to replicate it and see if theirs does that at the same speeds.

I'm not suggesting ANYONE exceed their driving ability to test this, but many of us who are fast (spirited) riders already (kinda) know our limits. I'm sure Hypurone (I LOVE that Username) and Ay4B know theirs. Something like an advanced Required Rider Skills that's in the back of our Owners Manuals (We've all read and tried those skills, right?)

 

[asp125]

Wait... ELKAS?

You (OP) mentioned you have Elkas. If they are the Elka Stage 2 shocks, there should be a red knob for rebound adjustment, in addition to preload via the spring collar. You said they cranked up the springs to prevent bottoming out. That stiffens up the shock, but could also make it more bouncy unless you pay attention to rebound.

Compression is how quickly the shock absorbs bumps, how fast it "squishes". Rebound is how quickly it lets the spring extend back to its original length, how fast it bounces back. If it feels like it's hopping or skipping across the road, sounds like too much rebound.