How do I Brake Bleed properly??

[Dan T]

I just finished bleeding the brakes on my 2011 RTS. I am still getting a brake failure code and the parking brake indicater light on the dash will not go out. The brakes work fine and the parking brake works as it should. What else should I check?

 

[skip]

made sure its full to the top with brake fluid, mine did that after a brake flush, lites on it was a cup full low on fluid, lite when out

 

[Wmoater]

Depending where you live, make sure you have pressure and your brakes actually work. Make sure there’s no air on the brake line /pad side itself. Run it like you just installed new pads. Ride brake for few seconds down the driveway and road at low speed to get them warm. Then once you “know” the system is pressurized and you “have” brakes, get her up to 60 hit the brakes hard down to 20, ride for 1/2 mile and repeat one more time. Your just really getting the system hot and moving. Then go back home and check the level again. You’ll need to add a spoon full at tops. It’s very finicky. When we bled dads, he still had code till it was run for 5 minutes or so. Turned off, topped off and turned back on and code went away.

 

[Mikey]

made sure its full to the top with brake fluid, mine did that after a brake flush, lites on it was a cup full low on fluid, lite when out

don't think a cup will fit!!:roflblack:

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I just finished bleeding the brakes on my 2011 RTS. I am still getting a brake failure code and the parking brake indicater light on the dash will not go out. The brakes work fine and the parking brake works as it should. What else should I check?

Pull up your code. If it happens to be C0049 then yes, it just needs more brake fluid. You want the top of the sensor float to rise slightly above the outer ring of the sensor. Also, check the rubber seal in the reservoir cap. If it unfolds, like they sometimes do, it can interfere with the sensor and cause a false low level signal. Just push it back in and it should pop back into place. Refer to the picture in your manual for what it is suppose to look like.

 

[Bfromla]

Pull up your code. If it happens to be C0049 then yes, it just needs more brake fluid. You want the top of the sensor float to rise slightly above the outer ring of the sensor. Also, check the rubber seal in the reservoir cap. If it unfolds, like they sometimes do, it can interfere with the sensor and cause a false low level signal. Just push it back in and it should pop back into place. Refer to the picture in your manual for what it is suppose to look like.

also helps to check if the floats are not stuck. & the V slit inside both caps is pointing to the back of bike.

 

[skip]

made sure its full to the top with brake fluid, mine did that after a brake flush, lites on it was a cup full low on fluid, lite when out

don't think a cup will fit!!:roflblack:

you know i mean a cap full:2thumbs:

 

[Mikey]

you know i mean a cap full:2thumbs:

I know!!!hyea:

 

[Little Blue]

Brake Issues

I just finished bleeding the brakes on my 2011 RTS. I am still getting a brake failure code and the parking brake indicater light on the dash will not go out. The brakes work fine and the parking brake works as it should. What else should I check?

So Have You Fixed the Problem?

 

[Jetfixer]

To answer the original question, the only way to do it properly is using BUDS. There is no other way to activate the ABS module.

 

[racer83l]

see if anyone near you has BUDS.. there is an entire procedure to bleed them