• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Hesitation on hard right turns

To many serious changes and it won't be an RS any more...when I spoke to them I said I go for a 1200 cc v-twin...:roflblack:..??


I think what ever they do it needs to stay the same size it's borderline too big in currant size
any bigger and it can be called a RSST
 
Amen brother

Little less bottom end torque not much . Dam tire can't leave a light with out spinning , oops well maybe that's just me
 
Splitsec is a no go. Their signal modifier doesn't play nice and modify the CAN signal.
Nice people and very helpful though.
Back to square one!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Splitsec is a no go. Their signal modifier doesn't play nice and modify the CAN signal.
Nice people and very helpful though.
Back to square one!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Sorry that was not a viable means.

Did Split Second offer any leads on companies that can handle the CAN signal.

PK
 
No....sigh...

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Do you have a wiring diagram of your vehicle?

It almost sounds as if the +-5v signal needs to be trimmed somehow prior to the output from the sensor.

I do have an option to see what these things look like inside, maybe I can acquire a steering sensor from a car at the junkyard and see what is inside.

PK
 
Do you have a wiring diagram of your vehicle?

It almost sounds as if the +-5v signal needs to be trimmed somehow prior to the output from the sensor.

I do have an option to see what these things look like inside, maybe I can acquire a steering sensor from a car at the junkyard and see what is inside.

PK

PM me your email address and I will send it over.

Basically, all we have to work with is: 5v, grnd, canhi, canlo. 4 wires for each. Since its CAN limiting the signal won't have any benefit. Kinda like lowering the voltage in a computer hard drive.

Its actually a pretty cool system with the specs on the size of the data bits and the redundancy on each of the hi-lo and the bandwidth of each.

I think to do anything effective its going to have to be more low tech with moving the sensor or removing it.
The more i read into it, I agree that its probably the steering angle sensor that's giving us the most grief at low speeds.

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk
 
PM me your email address and I will send it over.

Basically, all we have to work with is: 5v, grnd, canhi, canlo. 4 wires for each. Since its CAN limiting the signal won't have any benefit. Kinda like lowering the voltage in a computer hard drive.

Its actually a pretty cool system with the specs on the size of the data bits and the redundancy on each of the hi-lo and the bandwidth of each.

I think to do anything effective its going to have to be more low tech with moving the sensor or removing it.
The more i read into it, I agree that its probably the steering angle sensor that's giving us the most grief at low speeds.

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk

I'm kind of new to the "Nanny thing", but I removed my steering sensor (the one on the bottom of the steering shaft). It looked like it had a magnet in the bottom of the shaft that controls how the sensor reads. If this is true could the sensor be removed and a magnet placed on the sensor to fool the sensor into thinking it is on the shaft and not moving?
 
I'm kind of new to the "Nanny thing", but I removed my steering sensor (the one on the bottom of the steering shaft). It looked like it had a magnet in the bottom of the shaft that controls how the sensor reads. If this is true could the sensor be removed and a magnet placed on the sensor to fool the sensor into thinking it is on the shaft and not moving?

Potentially. I don't know why it wouldn't work. Unless there is some relationship between sensed steering output and different outputs from the front wheel sensors that it would expect to see only in a turn.
I'm wondering also if one couldn't just remove the sensor but leave it plugged in??
What did the opening look like when you removed the sensor? Would the area need to be blocked off if we were to try to do some runs with an unmounted sensor?

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk
 
If you guys fool with the SAS, don't forget that it is constantly compared to the steering torque sensor. I'm not sure if the front ABS sensors factor into it, but they might, or they might be integrated with the yaw sensor to detect wheel lifting. It may not be as simple as it seems.
 
If the sensor is removed from the steering shaft, it may not be wise to just let it be settled in the straight position. Maybe, to keep some input, the sensor could be relocated, and the mechanical rate changed from 1:1, to something less and have mechanical stops to limit what the computer sees as full steering lock angle. A flexible interconnect similar to a firm pair of rubber bands would allow the full lock travel of the steering with the sensor stopping well short of full lock.

PK
 
I agree guys. I don't think totally eliminating any sensor input entirely is a good solution for long term.
Just need to give nanny a Valium so she will relax a bit.....:D

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If steering and yaw sensors don't appear to be on the same page; she squawks...
If she got no signal from either; she'd get nervous...
But; if you could just get a constant input, for the signal that she expects when the bike is in gear, and just sitting still (as in traffic)?? :dontknow:
 
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