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Can anyone explain what aftermarket end links actually DO?

Not discussing upgraded sway bars. Discussing what if anything metal END LINKS do, and HOW they do it.

Why do upgraded sway bars improve handling?

Is it because they reduce flex and more efficiently transfer load from one side to the other? What are your thoughts?
 
Why do upgraded sway bars improve handling?

Is it because they reduce flex and more efficiently transfer load from one side to the other? What are your thoughts?

Here is a good article on sway bars:

https://www.drivingline.com/article...pension-mod-you-can-make-heres-how-they-work/

Note that there can be disadvantages:

"An anti-roll bar that is too stiff can upset weight transfer to the degree that a car becomes difficult to control. If you hit a pothole, bump, or track curbing with one side of the car, an overly-stiff bar can send that impact to the other wheel and destabilize the vehicle. This can lead to traction loss and loss of steering control, not to mention seriously bounce around driver and passenger."
 
Here is a good article on sway bars:

https://www.drivingline.com/article...pension-mod-you-can-make-heres-how-they-work/

Note that there can be disadvantages:

"An anti-roll bar that is too stiff can upset weight transfer to the degree that a car becomes difficult to control. If you hit a pothole, bump, or track curbing with one side of the car, an overly-stiff bar can send that impact to the other wheel and destabilize the vehicle. This can lead to traction loss and loss of steering control, not to mention seriously bounce around driver and passenger."

This is why I call the sway bar a 'Goldilocks' assembly. You do not want the stiffest bar you can get. Might work fine in ideal traction situations. But when traction is compromised, (rain, etc.) it's not a good idea. If you are riding off road and need a lot of articulation. A sway bar is also not a good idea. For the huge majority of Spyder/Ryker riders, off road articulation is not an issue.
 
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If the Ryker, especially the Rally with better suspension, is going "all over the road" it probably has other issues than the end links.
Check the alignment, tires, and so on before throwing money at aftermarket parts.
 
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What is good about these Spyder discussions is everyone has their opinion on whatever the issue is being discussed. All are good and in many cases informative and helpful to the reader. So, here is my opinion on this topic. I have only experienced Spyders since 2020 with a Rt L and now a 2022 F3L Limited. As you can see from my state map, I have travelled some, granted much on Harleys but with Spyders from Florida to Oregon and Northern Minnesota to Mexican Border and places in-between. I have driven Spyders on all kinds of roads and weather conditions with two up and single. I have not found any problems as to how the stock bike rides and handles. Perhaps the newer bikes have overcome some of the handling issues that the older models may have had. One case in point, I was coming through Salt Lake City Utah a couple years ago and cross winds of 70 mph plus were blowing trucks over but I had no big issue keeping the Spyder heading down the road.
 
I'm coming to this party late, but I think I can add an insight here that I haven't seen posted. I have a 2019 Spyder RT Ltd. Up until May 2022, I had absolutely no problem with the Spyder swaying or dipping or acting out of control in any way. I'd ridden my Spyder from Los Angeles to Eureka and back, and also to Las Vegas through Death Valley and back. I am 6'1" and I weighed about 185 pounds during that time.

TMI perhaps, but my wife developed a glioblastoma brain tumor in May 2022. While I was her primary caregiver until she died in January 2024, my Spyder was largely parked in the garage. I'd start it up to circulate the oil, etc, and take short rides, but nothing over a half-hour. During that time, I put on over 60 pounds because I was unable to leave her bedside.

When I began riding again, I noticed a marked difference in the way my Spyder handled - it bucked and jumped and basically scared the heck out of me when I was riding on twisty back roads, to the point where I slowed way the heck down. I was fine on long straight stretches (I rode it from the Los Angeles area to Lone Pine and back), but twisty roads were horrible. My Spyder is in pristine condition; I have fewer than 9K miles on it, and I'm just coming up on the next service scheduled for then.

I realized that the problem is not the Spyder; the problem is me. I've just ordered a BajaRon sway bar and end-links to be installed at the 9K service interval. The Spyder technician who is scheduled to do the service is absolutely superb, and he has done other installations for me, such as adding LED headlights and fog lights. I will report back with any mechanical issues other than the sway bars that come up during the service, and I will report back if I notice a pronounced improvement in the way the Spyder handles - or if there is no improvement.
 
Welcome to the forum, JYBritt. Thank you for sharing some of your backstory with us, I can only imagine how hard the last few years have been. I'm glad you're back on your bike and looking forward to the miles. I'll be interested to hear what you think of the sway bar and end links upgrade. I've recently added an F3 alongside my Ryker but haven't had a chance to put many miles on it, so I can't say much about the handling. I do appreciate the upgrade on my Ryker.

Sarah
 
Here is a good article on sway bars:

https://www.drivingline.com/article...pension-mod-you-can-make-heres-how-they-work/

Note that there can be disadvantages:

"An anti-roll bar that is too stiff can upset weight transfer to the degree that a car becomes difficult to control. If you hit a pothole, bump, or track curbing with one side of the car, an overly-stiff bar can send that impact to the other wheel and destabilize the vehicle. This can lead to traction loss and loss of steering control, not to mention seriously bounce around driver and passenger."
DickB, I see that you posted a video on swaybars concerning cars.
The Spyder is in another league! And the advice given here is from lots of folks with lots of experience!
If you don't want to purchase a swaybar, then don't.
However, if you do, you won't regret it!
 
New here, but I'm just going through SlingMods and they have a video that talks specifically about the sway bar AND the end links in an informative Q&A setting, not an install video.
"SlingMods Q&A with Baja Ron Suspension" on the SlingMods YT channel.

The TL : DR though - if you have the sway bar upgrade, you need the end links because the OEM ones will not last due to the increased forces of the more efficient sway bar. They do mention people install the end-links without the sway bar upgrade as well.
SlingMods does a great job with their videos.

The OEM plastic end links can break even with the OEM bar. But certainly, they are not going to last if an upgrade sway bar is installed.

Some change just the end links for safety. They will give you a slight improvement in handling. Some notice it, others don't. To get the full effect of improved handling, a complete sway bar kit is necessary.

You are wise to do research on a product before you buy.
 
DickB, I see that you posted a video on swaybars concerning cars.
The Spyder is in another league! And the advice given here is from lots of folks with lots of experience!
If you don't want to purchase a swaybar, then don't.
However, if you do, you won't regret it!
I guess you need to explain to me how the fundamentals are different, as I am uneducated.
 
I guess you need to explain to me how the fundamentals are different, as I am uneducated.
You know, you are correct sir. I guess my thoughts are that you seem adamant that you aren't interested in a sway bar upgrade. And EVERYTHING I have read says it's a great improvement in ride!
 
"Some change just the end links for safety. They will give you a slight improvement in handling. Some notice it, others don't. To get the full effect of improved handling, a complete sway bar kit is necessary."

Few folks will notice any difference between metal and plastic endlinks until a plastic endlink fails. If one breaks, you will notice the difference immediately! I was shown a picture of a Spyder after its OEM plastic endlink broke. I was shown the replacement Spyder that BRP gave the owner of the broken Spyder as a result of a short dispute in civil court over the broken plastic endlink. I don't know if there was a recall on those plastic endlinks because that was before my time as a Spyder owner.
 
There was a recall on OEM end links a good number of years ago. They were snapping like popcorn. Turned out that BRP was using multiple suppliers. One supplier was skimping on the kevlar fiber component. You had to determine if you had a link from the bad batch to get a replacement set. It was a black eye for BRP. They seem to shoot themselves in the foot more than most.
 
I'm not surprised at all by why and how BRP chooses to install faulty items on their products. I'd place the blame on company bean counters rather than the techs and engineers. JMHO
 
To be fair, the plastic links hold up fairly well with the stock sway bar. Though some production runs have been problematic. They stretch and compress which will fatigue them over time and can lead to breakage. Especially if you are an aggressive rider, ride 2-up, or do other things that work the sway bar harder.

The plastic links tend to absorbs some of the energy the bar is trying to transfer. That is why the metal end links improve handling. But the bar itself is much too weak. BRP used to supply a 30% stronger bar for the RSS model. But it was almost impossible to tell the difference. It takes a lot more than this to make a real difference.
 
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