HELP!!! Bad thermostat, where is it, how hard to change? 2012 RS-S

[jtpollock]

I'd say that, "Great minds think alike", but I wouldn't want to insult you like that!

Well here to hope maybe someone will come up with somthing we ahve not thought of...:chat: jtpollock
OH ya have a very fine day!!!!!

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: To Hope... :cheers:

 

[wyliec]

Is it possible for a radiator cap to have an intermittent problem; like maybe with the plunger? I might just change it for the heck of it. They aren't that expensive, are they?

 

[jtpollock]

Is it possible for a radiator cap to have an intermittent problem; like maybe with the plunger? I might just change it for the heck of it. They aren't that expensive, are they?

Thanks just one mot thing to add to me list.. I have sent a request for help and am still holding out hope. I realy don't want to take it to the dealer and pay there $150 plus shop rate to have them tell me the same thing I was told by BRP at the owners event in Durango that nothing is wrong. :banghead::banghead: jtpollock

 

[DrewNJ]

So was your overheat when you were stressing it more with the 300ft climb?
Possible partially clogged radiator? Efficient enough to cool most of the time, but not flowing/cooling well when the system is stressed????

 

[bluestratos]

The overheat warning is what concerns me, a bad radiator cap will puke antifreeze but the warning light would not come on (unless it was loosing antifreeze along the ride until there was not enough antifreeze left to cool the engine). A rad cap is cheap so you could try that to start. Make sure the radiator is not plugged with debris but I bet you already checked. A bad waterpump will usually leak before it quites but I had one that sheared the impeller off and cuased overheating in my car.

I had a big block boat engine that kept puking out the overflow bottle after the mechanic rebuilt the engine. I did all the usual inspections and could find nothing wrong, nothing wrong until I seen steam billing out the back and the engine locked up. I pulled the engine out myself and tore it down only to find they had used truck gaskets on the 460 instead of marine gaskets required for the marine heads. This restricted the water flow which caused a localized hot spot at the cylinders even though the water temp guage read fine. After buying the correct gaskets I called them to tell them what I had found. They said that the gaskets would make no difference and refused reimbursement beyound cutting me a deal ont he parts. Now I know you did not rebuild your engine but just making a point that it can be be difficult to pin point this type of problem.

I also had a radiator plug up after the last owner used stop leak to repair leak. It restrict the water so much the pump could hot push enough through to cool the block. A new radiator later I was up and running better than ever.

If after you replace the cap on the overflow tank it continues I would take it to a dealer to have the system pressure tested and inspected.

 

[jtpollock]

The overheat warning is what concerns me, a bad radiator cap will puke antifreeze but the warning light would not come on (unless it was loosing antifreeze along the ride until there was not enough antifreeze left to cool the engine). A rad cap is cheap so you could try that to start. Make sure the radiator is not plugged with debris but I bet you already checked. A bad waterpump will usually leak before it quites but I had one that sheared the impeller off and cuased overheating in my car.

I had a big block boat engine that kept puking out the overflow bottle after the mechanic rebuilt the engine. I did all the usual inspections and could find nothing wrong, nothing wrong until I seen steam billing out the back and the engine locked up. I pulled the engine out myself and tore it down only to find they had used truck gaskets on the 460 instead of marine gaskets required for the marine heads. This restricted the water flow which caused a localized hot spot at the cylinders even though the water temp guage read fine. After buying the correct gaskets I called them to tell them what I had found. They said that the gaskets would make no difference and refused reimbursement beyound cutting me a deal ont he parts. Now I know you did not rebuild your engine but just making a point that it can be be difficult to pin point this type of problem.

I also had a radiator plug up after the last owner used stop leak to repair leak. It restrict the water so much the pump could hot push enough through to cool the block. A new radiator later I was up and running better than ever.

If after you replace the cap on the overflow tank it continues I would take it to a dealer to have the system pressure tested and inspected.

Ya the main problem is I am a shade tree mechanic I know just enough
to get myself into trouble. With the oil change and plugs crawling around
on the garage floor I messed up my sciatic nerve and my knee. It bits to
get old. Anyway I will call the dealer today and see if they have a cap.

Last evening I rolled the Spyder out ran it around the block a few times and
About 15 minutes got 7bars the temp red light hi temp warning message across
the interment panel and limp home mode I was in the driveway so I put my hand
near the fan and cool air was coming from the fan. This whole thing is killing me
I ride every day and it’s been 21 days since I was able to have a good ride.
More to come :chat: :dontknow: jtpollock

 

[jtpollock]

Just ordered a Pressure Cap for the radiator how does BRP justify $22 plus tax for a radiator cap and not have then in stock :banghead::banghead::banghead: this is getting old!!! jtpollock

 

[jtpollock]

Well, I have tried everything I could think of and replaced the things I could. The overflow, that is the one with the rib around the middle, no sign of any cracks. I have replaced the thermostat, the radiator cap, checked the fan fuses, the next thing will be the water pump. :yikes: I don't even want to go there but that's life... I want my Spyder back! :banghead: :cus: :cus: jtpollock

 

[oldgoat]

Last evening I rolled the Spyder out ran it around the block a few times and
About 15 minutes got 7bars the temp red light hi temp warning message across
the interment panel and limp home mode I was in the driveway so I put my hand
near the fan and cool air was coming from the fan. This whole thing is killing me
I ride every day and it’s been 21 days since I was able to have a good ride.
More to come :chat: :dontknow: jtpollock

You need the rhs side pod off when it gets hot & shows the red light. Need to feel the rad & hoses with your bare hands to see how far the hot coolant is getting. Sounds like it is not being circulated properly.

 

[jtpollock]

You need the rhs side pod off when it gets hot & shows the red light. Need to feel the rad & hoses with your bare hands to see how far the hot coolant is getting. Sounds like it is not being circulated properly.

Ya been there done that!!
when the fan comes on starts warm then gets cool sounds like the water pump??? :banghead::banghead:jtpollock

 

[oldgoat]

It's hard to imagine the hot engine lights on, the cooling fan on & cool air being blown by the fan. Apart from a circulation problem, I'm temporarily baffled.

 

[DrewNJ]

It's hard to imagine the hot engine lights on, the cooling fan on & cool air being blown by the fan. Apart from a circulation problem, I'm temporarily baffled.

Agreed! ....that's the only reason I was leaning toward a clogged radiator. It's a puzzler for sure!

 

[oldgoat]

If you have the time you could:

Remove the thermostat from its housing (I know it is a new one) & close up the housing without it in. Run around the neighborhood for a while & see if it still gets too hot. With the thermostat removed you have uninterrupted coolant flow around the engine & radiator.

If it gets too hot, then you can say that it is one of the following:

1) your water pump is not circulating the coolant - impellor or shaft problem
2) the radiator fins are blocked - clean them out from the rear
3) the radiator tubes are blocked - new rad or professional clean

At the moment I can't think of anything else.

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: It can't hurt to try this, and it could rule out some possibilities... :thumbup:

 

[DrewNJ]

You can't remove the thermostat and run without it. Doesn't work that way.

 

[cptjam]

Drain the coolant. See if you can flush the radiator with a hose. Sounds clogged to me

 

[oldgoat]

You can't remove the thermostat and run without it. Doesn't work that way.

Didn't know that.

 

[Bob Denman]

What'll happen? :dontknow:

Back in the good old days; pulling a thermostat was a pretty normal course of action for overheating problems...

 

[DrewNJ]

Its not like you'd see on a car at all. The thermostat is enclosed in a sealed plastic enclosure with the radiator hoses attached. To remove the thermostat you'd have to remove the entire assembly.
I guess you could remove the entire assembly and bolt in a big T fitting to the hoses to bypass or cut open the assembly to get to the stat and try to repair the assembly housing......

Since the thermostat has already been replaced the likelyhood of a bad replacement to replace a bad one is pretty unlikely. Especially since they are designed to fail in open/bypass to prevent overheating.

On another note, the thermostats on our machines are more prone to failure than you'd ever believe (its the same aprilia stat). However, most don't notice it and are happy to see the bike running cooler. Most don't ride in the winter.