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Helmet lock
- Thread starter JFD
- Start date
Bob Denman
New member
They look GREAT! :clap: :firstplace:
I bet that you could sell a bunch of them in here! :thumbup:
I bet that you could sell a bunch of them in here! :thumbup:
Border Rider
Member
helmet lock
I have been thinking about something like that. That looks great.:clap::clap:
I have been thinking about something like that. That looks great.:clap::clap:
safecracker
Active member
Great job.
Exactly right!
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cptjam
Registered User
Great idea!
Or, go to petsmart. Buy a dog choke chain. even the smallest size. works on full face and modular that dont have D rings. a length of rubber hose to protect the finish. Done. First used it on my VROD in '06; same problem - how to secure a helmet cheaply and easily.
I like the metal fabbed ones, but many can not fab. Anybody can buy a choke chain! Joe
Or, go to petsmart. Buy a dog choke chain. even the smallest size. works on full face and modular that dont have D rings. a length of rubber hose to protect the finish. Done. First used it on my VROD in '06; same problem - how to secure a helmet cheaply and easily.
I like the metal fabbed ones, but many can not fab. Anybody can buy a choke chain! Joe
Sure, I'll try and do that today.
Another inexpensive quicky........
Remember that safety lock that came with the last hand gun you bought? Some police departments give them away for free. Be sure you put the lock portion under the seat because everyone has a key for those things. Personally, I broke down and went with Lidlox because our helmets don't have the "D" rings, they have the ratchet chin strap. Great idea Joe. Good DIY'r stuff.
Remember that safety lock that came with the last hand gun you bought? Some police departments give them away for free. Be sure you put the lock portion under the seat because everyone has a key for those things. Personally, I broke down and went with Lidlox because our helmets don't have the "D" rings, they have the ratchet chin strap. Great idea Joe. Good DIY'r stuff.
BitSlayer
New member
:agree: I think they would be a big hit here. I'm not too handy with the metal work, so I would be one potential customer.
Motorcycledave
Active member
Those look great....... BUT
From the photos, it looks as if the section that hangs on the Spyder is hanging on the plastic body
side panel is so then it could be pulled on and brake the plastic I hope I am wrong....
otherwise they are great.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
From the photos, it looks as if the section that hangs on the Spyder is hanging on the plastic body
side panel is so then it could be pulled on and brake the plastic I hope I am wrong....
otherwise they are great.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Mazo EMS2
Active member
Devil's advocate remark here.......Is it still possible to manipulate the d-ring and get it off of the hanger, or does the narrow end HAVE to be removed from the bike and slid out through the d-ring?. I like it, a lot. If I didn't have Lidlox, I'd be a customer. Heck I wouldn't share the specs, I'd start sellin' em here.:bowdown:
The square hole slips over the Spyder plastic clip but that's why the tang in picture 2 is there, it hooks under the plastic under the seat and the side panel both. Yes, someone could break it I suppose, but you'd have to pull pretty hard. But I think it would be easier to get your fingers under the front trunk and break that too.
Ok, here's the drawing. It took longer to make the 3D model and the drawing then it did to make the two parts. Hah!
I have included the bend dimensions but what you really want to do is bend the tang, hook it on, mark the first bend with a pencil, bend, mark the next bend with a pencil, etc. This is made from .062 (16 ga. ) stainless. Only used hand tools, I cut the stainless with an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel (carefully), drilled 4 holes in the corners of the cut-out and hand filed, used the grinder to clean up the edges, and then rounded the corners. Hand sanded the part with sand paper of progessively finer grit and it came out looking polished. To drill into stainless you must use the slowest rpm possible with lots of pressure, I used 120 rpm. Too fast and you will heat and harden the stainless and then you are in trouble.
I have included the bend dimensions but what you really want to do is bend the tang, hook it on, mark the first bend with a pencil, bend, mark the next bend with a pencil, etc. This is made from .062 (16 ga. ) stainless. Only used hand tools, I cut the stainless with an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel (carefully), drilled 4 holes in the corners of the cut-out and hand filed, used the grinder to clean up the edges, and then rounded the corners. Hand sanded the part with sand paper of progessively finer grit and it came out looking polished. To drill into stainless you must use the slowest rpm possible with lots of pressure, I used 120 rpm. Too fast and you will heat and harden the stainless and then you are in trouble.
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