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Heated OEM grips on F3 LTD do just barely - anyone replaced with A/mkt?

McRuss

New member
I've had heated grips on several bikes, some I installed and two factory (Yamaha FJR, BMW RT). They all worked to various degrees (pun intended) but all did the job. The ones on my F3 do not. It is not that cold yet in the NM mountains but winter is coming as is a trip to AK next year. And I would like to replace my OEM grips with some good ones.

Question is, has anyone done that? I suspect I could pull power from the OEM switch and then route it to the after market controller (most have several settings.)
 
With my RT, both Low and High get too warm after about 10 minutes. But I hadn't been in really cold weather yet so I designed a circuit that provides variable heating control and greater heat output.

The handlebar wires are quite small (20AWG) and they are separate for Low and High. Because the Ground is common I thought there would be too much current to connect Low and High together. The Ohm's Law solution is higher voltage, say 18-24 volts, via a buck convertor feeding a potentiometer-controlled pulse width modulator feeding the heating elements. I've assembled a parts list on Amazon but haven't pushed the Buy Now button. I don't know if this solution would work for an F3.
 
I've had heated grips on several bikes, some I installed and two factory (Yamaha FJR, BMW RT). They all worked to various degrees (pun intended) but all did the job. The ones on my F3 do not. It is not that cold yet in the NM mountains but winter is coming as is a trip to AK next year. And I would like to replace my OEM grips with some good ones.

Question is, has anyone done that? I suspect I could pull power from the OEM switch and then route it to the after market controller (most have several settings.)

I recall reading here that the F-3 was heat deficient compared to the the RT ..... and some folks here have switched to sno-mobile grips that have three or more settings ..... sno-mobile grips are able to get get much warmer than ones for a Mtc. ..... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:
 
I recall reading here that the F-3 was heat deficient compared to the the RT ..... and some folks here have switched to sno-mobile grips that have three or more settings ..... sno-mobile grips are able to get get much warmer than ones for a Mtc. ..... jmho .... Mike :thumbup:

:agree: x 2 Compared to the RT heated grips, I feel that the F3 Heated grips leave a bit to be desired.
 
:agree: Truth. My 2017 F3T heated grips are one setting only and it is warm at best. My 2014 RT had two settings and even on low they were much better than the F3's. :banghead:
 
Not really sure about this but one of my friends told me that his wires were crossed on his F-3 Ltd grips and when he switched them over the heated grips worked much better. (they were wired backwards)

DISCLAIMER: I am old and might have just dreamed this up, but i think it is true.

Cruzr Joe
 
Not really sure about this but one of my friends told me that his wires were crossed on his F-3 Ltd grips and when he switched them over the heated grips worked much better. (they were wired backwards)

DISCLAIMER: I am old and might have just dreamed this up, but i think it is true.

Cruzr Joe

I know with LED's , there is a positive and negative .... and they need to be hooked up correctly for them to work at all. .... I would think this applies to heated grips also. They will either work or they won't ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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:agree: Truth. My 2017 F3T heated grips are one setting only and it is warm at best. My 2014 RT had two settings and even on low they were much better than the F3's. :banghead:
:agree:100% We did practically the same thing, except I went from a 2014 RT to a 2016 F3T. As stated, the F3 grips have a lot to be desired. My BMW has 5 settings and I have only needed setting number 3 on a 35 degree day. And that is with foam grip puppies on the BMW.
 
I fitted heated grips the other day to an F3 - now it is in Australia, so it's not that cold.... the grip part looked the same as my RT Ltd grip. So is the problem the controller & not the grips maybe? Has anyone tried changing the wiring so the grips get more current supply? Just a thought...
 
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My F3 grips are a joke compared to my BRP snowmobiles. If handlebar size is the same as anyone put the RT heaters on a F3?
RT must use a higher output grip heater than the F3. Maybe they have a bigger element in them. And even with just wired to just the high side it would be better than the stock ones. Turning off/on would be no problem, too much heat is better than not enough.
In my snowmobiles some use the computer to cycle on/off to lower heat levels, my sleds have 8 levels. On other models they just use a resistor to drop power for the one with only a high/ low setting.
 
I've installed these Koso grips on several motorcycles and been very pleased with their integration and operation: https://www.amazon.com/Koso-AM111030-Apollo-Heated-Grips/dp/B00T6IX42S

I'm not happy with my 2014 RT's heated grips (too hot and sometimes trigger Check Engine) and the previous owner damaged the handlebar wires on both sides so I'm looking at replacing them with Koso grips. They have a new throttle-by-wire version. I'll report back on my results.
 
I’m a bit surprised. Here are my findings. BRP has the hottest hand grips on everything for any manufacture. Their sled heated grips will actually put blisters on your hands if you have them on high and a loose glove. The four wheeler grips are the best on the market hands down. We run Hatfields each spring and guys always walk over and put their hands on my grips to warm up a bit. Those are variable and I run 2 bars only. My SXS seats and grips are super hot. High will get to hot if you run 4000 RPS constant. My RT has to be left on Low. Are you running the rps at 3500? To low of RPS or high seems to decrease the heat. I’ve never heard of can am products not being hot but I have not tied the F series only RT. These are just my findings on my machines.
 
:agree:100% We did practically the same thing, except I went from a 2014 RT to a 2016 F3T. As stated, the F3 grips have a lot to be desired. My BMW has 5 settings and I have only needed setting number 3 on a 35 degree day. And that is with foam grip puppies on the BMW.

My '16 F3T does not have hand warmers, AFAIK! Maybe I haven't found the switch. Did some models come without the warmers?
 
I’m a bit surprised. Here are my findings. BRP has the hottest hand grips on everything for any manufacture. Their sled heated grips will actually put blisters on your hands if you have them on high and a loose glove. The four wheeler grips are the best on the market hands down. We run Hatfields each spring and guys always walk over and put their hands on my grips to warm up a bit. Those are variable and I run 2 bars only. My SXS seats and grips are super hot. High will get to hot if you run 4000 RPS constant. My RT has to be left on Low. Are you running the rps at 3500? To low of RPS or high seems to decrease the heat. I’ve never heard of can am products not being hot but I have not tied the F series only RT. These are just my findings on my machines.

The F3 models are single heat and at the low end of "heated grip" spectrum. I've had heated grips on my H-D models that were much better/hotter than those available for the F3.
 
I've had heated grips on several bikes, some I installed and two factory (Yamaha FJR, BMW RT). They all worked to various degrees (pun intended) but all did the job. The ones on my F3 do not. It is not that cold yet in the NM mountains but winter is coming as is a trip to AK next year. And I would like to replace my OEM grips with some good ones.

Question is, has anyone done that? I suspect I could pull power from the OEM switch and then route it to the after market controller (most have several settings.)

I made my own! So can you!

https://www.rattlebars.com/heated/
 
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