Yes I hit the 8600 redline thats how i knew I got the flash, I wouldn't trust my butt dyno I was just going by comparison with another F3. I was under impression is more around 15 HP without needing a cat delete. If it's only 5/6 HP plus the weight difference and slight shifting variations between my cousin that could explain why he pulls ahead.
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Have you had an ECU Flash? How long did it take? Any good?
- Thread starter Doug
- Start date
Yes I hit the 8600 redline thats how i knew I got the flash, I wouldn't trust my butt dyno I was just going by comparison with another F3. I was under impression is more around 15 HP without needing a cat delete. If it's only 5/6 HP plus the weight difference and slight shifting variations between my cousin that could explain why he pulls ahead.
308gunner
Member
Don't forget also..the tune needs to breathe...swap out the cat with no baffle...it's not expensive...RLS!!
I have the RLS cat delete but I took it off as I couldnt stand the fuel smell. Loved the sound though it really sounded nice. I may give it another try and do another race with my cousin just to see the difference.
No not sitting still, lot of people love the fuel smell and are used to from riding carburated two wheelers so you many not even notice it but it should be there if you are running it with stock exhaust.
Hey Snoopy, your air cleaner will do the necessary 'increase air flow/volume' job even better than those with just the 2 holes!!
hyea: :thumbup:SNOOPY, is your ride a 998 or 1330...I've never seen a 1330 with that set up...Could you post a picture if its a 1330...THANK YOU, larryd
AY4B
New member
The form you need to fill out and send in has a place for what mods you currently have. Write it down there so Wick it will know your set up and make any changes to the tune if any. Sounds to me like you already have more air intake and could not send them the lid anyway because of your air box mod. If I were you, I would also call them to discuss any options.
thereverend
Member
I want to do the ECU stage 1, but I can not figure out how to release the ECU from the connections. I have looked at the pictures and they are not specific, like exactly push this tab here.. I have a 2015 RTSE, I got the 3 screws out but can not get the lock tab to release... can someone take a picture with a flash and show me the exact place to put pressure on ?
308gunner
Member
the locking black tabs are located at the bottom of the two connectors..you PUSH them in while turning the lever at the same time unlocking the lever.
thereverend
Member
do you have a picture? what do they look like?
They are the tiny black tabs in the middle of the cross bar on the cam-lock type fasteners. Once you see them, you really won't need a pic.... but if your 'close vision' is becoming anything like that of most of us as we age, you might need longer arms, or a magnifying glass!! :gaah:
The tabs are quite small & insignificant looking, but they're right in the centre of the cross bar, and they REALLY WORK at stopping those fasteners from ever coming undone accidentally!! :shocked:
Good Luck! :thumbup:
The tabs are quite small & insignificant looking, but they're right in the centre of the cross bar, and they REALLY WORK at stopping those fasteners from ever coming undone accidentally!! :shocked:
Good Luck! :thumbup:
juscuz
Member
I can't remember where a picture was just posted a few days ago. The releasing mechanism folks are talking are small oval shaped button type thingys. One under each locking tab or get a small mirror and look there. I feel your frustration, I looked over and over again and there they were right under the locking tabs. As I said earlier, they are very small and sort of oval shaped. You must push them in and the release tabs will move easily so you can pull the connectors away from the ECU.
thereverend
Member
thank ya'll so much, I will look again.
AY4B
New member
With me I had to pull the ECU out as much as I could so I could turn it to be able to look at the end close up. the tab is in the end area and once you have it pushed in the lever will almost pop over buy itself. Once you figure out the first one, the second one is right behind it.
troop
Well-known member
Didn't take long to want more from your PCV. That said, I doubt the Stage 1 mod will be much, if any, of an improvement over the PCV. Just get the Stage 2 and be done with it. No shoulda, woulda, coulda remorse...
thereverend
Member
Ok, after turning the ECU upside down with the connection now on top and with a mirror, I found this mysterious oval shaped "button", kinda small, but I pushed it in and low and behold it was able to release the hold it had on the lock.....and took the advice and removed the filter top cover and sent in both items to wick-it in Shreveport. Thanks Ya'll
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