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Harbor Freight Cycle Lift

I just picked one up today at Harbor Freight, took it home, assembled it, and it won't go under the bike. It hits the lower plastic cover, on the side(the black one on the lower left side, below the one you take off to check the oil), and looks like it will hit the highway peg frame underneath. All bummed out. Why can't I get it under, and all of you do? With the lift all the way down, topside of rubber pads on lift to the ground is about 5.5"
 
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I just picked one up today at Harbor Freight, took it home, assembled it, and it won't go under the bike. It hits the lower plastic cover, on the side(the black one on the lower left side, below the one you take off to check the oil), and looks like it will hit the highway peg frame underneath. All bummed out. Why can't I get it under, and all of you do? With the lift all the way down, topside of rubber pads on lift to the ground is about 5.5"
Pump the rear shock up to full 60 to 90 psi. It'll slide under then.
 
I just picked one up today at Harbor Freight, took it home, assembled it, and it won't go under the bike. It hits the lower plastic cover, on the side(the black one on the lower left side, below the one you take off to check the oil), and looks like it will hit the highway peg frame underneath. All bummed out. Why can't I get it under, and all of you do? With the lift all the way down, topside of rubber pads on lift to the ground is about 5.5"

Sometimes the lift doesn't go down all the way. If you stand on the forks and press the release pedal with a broom handle it will go down a bit more and you should be able to get under the Spyder. Also do what IdahoMtnSpyder suggested.

Pam
 
Pump the rear shock up to full 60 to 90 psi. It'll slide under then.

do you think since the highway peg frame is under there, in the way( although it seems to be even with the frame) any pressure on that lifting the bike will hurt anything? Looks like the bolts go through the engine block.
 
Sometimes the lift doesn't go down all the way. If you stand on the forks and press the release pedal with a broom handle it will go down a bit more and you should be able to get under the Spyder. Also do what IdahoMtnSpyder suggested.

Pam

This thing is just not going to work for some reason. Lift all the way down, can't go anymore unless I cut out some of the steel on the base, because all the way down and it is resting on the frame back where it pivots. Ran shock all the way up, and still not enough room. Don't want to blow shock out. Don't understand. If you look at the specs it says 5 1/4" folded. That's too high to go under frame. What is a fella to do.
 
Low clearance

That's one advantage the craftsman and I think the aluminum HF lift have, you can slide them right under with room to spare.
 
This thing is just not going to work for some reason. Lift all the way down, can't go anymore unless I cut out some of the steel on the base, because all the way down and it is resting on the frame back where it pivots. Ran shock all the way up, and still not enough room. Don't want to blow shock out. Don't understand. If you look at the specs it says 5 1/4" folded. That's too high to go under frame. What is a fella to do.

I dunno, maybe the 2010 RT is lower than the 2015 :dontknow:

Pam
 
This thing is just not going to work for some reason. Lift all the way down, can't go anymore unless I cut out some of the steel on the base, because all the way down and it is resting on the frame back where it pivots. Ran shock all the way up, and still not enough room. Don't want to blow shock out. Don't understand. If you look at the specs it says 5 1/4" folded. That's too high to go under frame. What is a fella to do.

Sorry, you bought the wrong model number. See the discussion at (scroll down to #30):
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?14601-Lifting-the-RT

Harbor Freight has a couple of jacks that look similar. One is a little shorter and fits under the Spyder with no problem. Try returning yours. At the store, look at both models and measure the height difference to find the correct model. ITEM #61632, the height at the middle of the lifting pad from floor is 4.5"

attachment.php
 
They only have one model at the store, other than the aluminium one that is almost 3 times as much.
I just looked up both item numbers, and they both say minimum height 5.5". Actually the shelf picture that they had on the label at the store said 4.5", but check both out, and they say they are the same height now. Don't know whats up with that.


Sorry, you bought the wrong model number. See the discussion at (scroll down to #30):
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?14601-Lifting-the-RT

Harbor Freight has a couple of jacks that look similar. One is a little shorter and fits under the Spyder with no problem. Try returning yours. At the store, look at both models and measure the height difference to find the correct model. ITEM #61632, the height at the middle of the lifting pad from floor is 4.5"

attachment.php
 
Sorry, you bought the wrong model number. See the discussion at (scroll down to #30):
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?14601-Lifting-the-RT

Harbor Freight has a couple of jacks that look similar. One is a little shorter and fits under the Spyder with no problem. Try returning yours. At the store, look at both models and measure the height difference to find the correct model. ITEM #61632, the height at the middle of the lifting pad from floor is 4.5"
Nope, that's not it. The HF web site shows both collapse to 5 1/2", which is the same as my Craftsman. I think maybe the 2010 sits closer to the ground, a little bit anyway. The front tires are 14" and in 2013 they changed to 15". The 2010 has spring adjusters on the front shocks, right? Maybe they're turned all the way down. Maybe that's part of the difference. The springs and shocks changed in 2013 also.
 
i've never used one of these jacks.
how do you lower the bike?
does it come down slowly or wham it's down?
 
You might want to check with Finless Bob. He has a 2011 (with the 14 inch rims) and says he uses this lift all the time. Maybe he can tell you how he gets it under there.

Pam
 
I have one that I bought for lifting the spyder so I can put it on car wheel dollies in order to move it around the garage during the winter. I have found other uses for it that are not spyder related as well. To answer one question, it can be lowered slowly, or WHAM, down it comes, but it really isn't that violent.

I push mine in from the right side underneath the floor board and pump away. That keeps it balanced unless I have something in the frunk that I forgot to take out.
 
Yea, I ended up pulling the front wheels up on 3/4" boards, and then it gave me enough room just barely to get it under. But I am going to go to the other store just west of me and check theirs even though they said on the phone that the only differnce between the model numbers is different manufacturers, and that they both have a minimum height of 5.5"
If I don't have to use boards it would be great, but if they are the same , then I will keep what I got for the $69.
 
I had to....

I bought the HF lift last year and I had to remove the rubber pads from the top of the lifts otherwise it wouldn't fit. Once removed it would just make it underneath our '12 RTL. Now it works like a champ. I do wish it felt a bit more stable when lifting, but it does the job. I put on ground effects lighting and oil changes, etc....
 
jacklineup2.jpgjacklineup.jpg This one is at Harbor Freight in blue color. A little closer to $200.00 and you can use the 20% off coupon. It is very sturdy and used by many here. IMO, your Spyder costs $15K-$20K....why risk a cheap light weight lift.....get a good sturdy one ! Also get a set of stands and always use stands for added safety ! :clap:;)
 
View attachment 134412View attachment 134413 This one is at Harbor Freight in blue color. A little closer to $200.00 and you can use the 20% off coupon. It is very sturdy and used by many here. IMO, your Spyder costs $15K-$20K....why risk a cheap light weight lift.....get a good sturdy one ! Also get a set of stands and always use stands for added safety ! :clap:;)

I've used this "cheap, lightweight" lift on my last two motorcycles, each worth well over $20k, and now my Spyder for which I paid $26k, and it has worked just fine. Yeah, you can spend more money if you want, but this one does the job for less.

The use of jack stands goes without saying.

Pam
 
This thing is just not going to work for some reason. Lift all the way down, can't go anymore unless I cut out some of the steel on the base, because all the way down and it is resting on the frame back where it pivots. Ran shock all the way up, and still not enough room. Don't want to blow shock out. Don't understand. If you look at the specs it says 5 1/4" folded. That's too high to go under frame. What is a fella to do.

Try using 2x4 cut to approximately 12 inches each and drive onto them. Should work in getting you enough clearance I have a lowered vehicle and use a racing jack (very low) which is low to floor already but the 2x4 works fine in getting the jack under it. Just an idea.
 
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