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Harbor Freight 63397 motorcycle lift - high enough for sway bar install?

troop

troop

Well-known member
Hey all,
Thinking of updating my 15 year old Fleet Farm motorcycle lift for something a bit more modern. My current one is still capable of lift the Spyder up around 14". I'm looking at the Harbor Freight aluminum 63397 lift. I'm wondering about it in regards to swapping out my OEM sway bar. This lift comes with extensions to gain an extra 2" of lift. This allows a max lift of 19". Is the 19" lift, along with the sway bar ground clearance enough to remove the sway bar? I'd position it forward to lift up only the front wheels, with jack stands on hand. Most importantly, would it be stable? I might have access to aluminum ramps and a truck bumper if need be. Thoughts? Thanks
 

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I used a similar lift. It did not go high enough for a single lift and do the job. Himm. Some say - Improvise - adapt ... :)
So I lifted in stages. I had some 4"x4" blocks 'bout 10" long. I lifted the F3. Blocked under all 3 tyres.
Dropped the lift. Applied several blocks on the lift; and did it again until I had enough height.

It's really high and I wouldn't be happy with it just on the lift, with no blocks under the tyres. Yes, I had quite a few blocks.
 
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I do not believe you will get it stable enough with the aluminum jack and rear wheel still on the ground. If you are determined to salvage the OEM sway bar, best use the ramps and pickup.

When I changed mine out for the Ultra 3 pcs, I raised the Spyder up aprox 14" with stands under all 3 wheels.
Unbolted the OEM bar, let it hang down to the floor, and 5 seconds with the gas wrench (torch), all done.

Your call. :thumbup: Bill
 
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You need the extra height, even that one doesn't go high enough as is for a sway bar removal. Make yourself a scrap add-on lift platform out of some OSB and scrap 2x6's or so, like this:

20220606_205234.jpg.

I do all the wrenching with the Spyder sitting on Jack Stands and with the jack stabilizing, break all the nuts and bolts loose, then jack it up and drop the bar out. If you're putting in one of the old fashioned Sway bars, put the new bar in before letting it down. If you're putting in Baja Ron's Ultimate three piece bar you can just lower it back onto the jack stands and install.

20220606_205441med.jpg
 
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I have this lift and must say it is just "OK". When it is fully extended the Spyder is quite rocky and tends to lean to one side.
It will not raise the bike high enough to change out your sway bar (first hand experience) not to mention it will be in the way.
 
I have that lift and like it when used in combination of some jack stands once you get it up, but for the one piece bar I just put my ramps on the back of my truck and that was able to get the spyder high enough to get the bar out.
Make sure to use safety chains with the ramps and attach them to the truck so they don't slide out on you. Also make sure your tires line up on the very inside of the ramps when you go up on them to give the clearance needed on the sides to get the bar out.

IMG_20210917_131110559.jpg
 
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CloverHillCrawler said:
I have that lift and like it when used in combination of some jack stands once you get it up, but for the one piece bar I just put my ramps on the back of my truck and that was able to get the spyder high enough to get the bar out.
Make sure to use safety chains with the ramps and attach them to the truck so they don't slide out on you. Also make sure your tires line up on the very inside of the ramps when you go up on them to give the clearance needed on the sides to get the bar out.

View attachment 206558
Click to expand...

I have done several in a similar way. Did all the nuts and bolts on lower blocks, and friend showed up for a couple minutes to swap the bars.
 

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The ramp/pictures show the correct way. Don't run the ramps up to a tailgate. Their supports can fail. DISASTER!!!!!
 
Another vote for the ramps and rear of truck. I also would not use the ramps off the tailgate. In fact, I backed my trailer onto a set of car ramps (to get it higher), then I put some 6' ramps on the rear of the trailer. Just remember to tie everything off, ramps, spyder, etc.
 
Ramps for me too. If you put your mind to it there are other ways you can safely support the ramps to get the height you need.
 

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Did this just last week or so. Lots of safeties: ramps, straps, floor jack, wheel chock. Stable as can be.
 

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Isopedella said:
I used a similar lift. It did not go high enough for a single lift and do the job. Himm. Some say - Improvise - adapt ... :)
So I lifted in stages. I had some 4"x4" blocks 'bout 10" long. I lifted the F3. Blocked under all 3 tyres.
Dropped the lift. Applied several blocks on the lift; and did it again until I had enough height.

It's really high and I wouldn't be happy with it just on the lift, with no blocks under the tyres. Yes, I had quite a few blocks.
Click to expand...

I have that exact lift. It is not high enough as it sits. I ended up adding a couple of boards and was able to then remove the sway bar.
 
I'll likely buy this lift once it goes on sale to replace my current antiquated one. I'll still use the ramp method for my sway bar swap.
 
For me the actual bar swap took less time than getting it into a good position to access it.

BTW. You hear stories about stuff and what a difference they make.
I have done many things to quite a few bikes. I had a smile on my face within 100m of my test ride.
 
I changed mine off a set of car ramps.:dontknow: Worked for me, yes you can't have a dance under there, but it worked for my old iron.
 
I used 84" long 2500 lb rated ramps tied to the rear bumper of my Ram 3500 with four (4) 2000 lb straps. I also used jack stands under the middle section of the ramps to prevent drooping. Also chocked the rear wheel with 4x4 lumber once in position. Worked very well and was for sure very safe. Due to height of the truck I had about 24" of clearance, so lots of room... YMMV
 
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