The handlebar has a bit of a u-shaped profile that is biased away from the driver (i.e. the centerline of the bar where it passes through the cam clamp is closer to the driver verses the centerline of the grips. Anyone have experience loosing all the attached items and rotating the handle so it moves the grip centerline closer to the driver?
-
There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.
Handlebar rotation
- Thread starter CTAC
- Start date
, please share when you do find the way.:thumbup:
PMK
Active member
A photo would have helped, but it sounds as if the handlebars were installed incorrectly if that is possible.
KID Ryker
Member
Yes you can rotate the bars, BUT you would have to re drill the hole to match the wiring and controls. Anything is do able if you are capable. :cheers:
I didn't drill the bars on my Triumph when I wanted to rotate the switch housings. I just used my Dremel tool and took off the positioning pins. The housings still tightened enough to keep them from rotating on the bars. Put three years and 70,000 miles on the bike with no issues.
PMK
Active member
Are you saying the end of the handlebars was forward vs what you show in the photo? If so, it seems the bike was assembled incorrectly.
superbee24
New member
They look much better. What all was involved in the flip??
Bfromla
Well-known member
:congrats::2thumbs:
Glad your happy with results, without too much detail, was it a DIY or dealer involved task?, & guess on time to complete please.
opcorn:It was a DIY project. And responding to an earlier post, they were not originally installed incorrectly... Just not to my liking. By rotating them approximately 180 degrees after flipping them, they sit taller and a bit closer to me. It took me a couple hours but others might be able to do it faster. I was being very careful.
The details of what I did:
- Removed the mirrors (one Torx screw per side)
- Removed the hand guards (four socket head cap screws per side)
- Loosened and seperated the throttle casing halves and the throttle grip itself (three Torx screws)
- Loosened and seperated the turn signal/horn/lights casing halves (two Torx screws)
- Removed cables from cable holders (carefully)
- Removed bar clamps and screws (four socket head cap screws)
- Flipped handlebar end-for-end and ensured I slid the throttle housing over handlebar end before placing into the adjustment cradle.
- Replaced the bar clamps and screws. Test fit preferred angle then fully tighten the four socket head screws.
- Inserted a thin screwdriver between grip and handlebar; prying outward to form a gap... then sprayed isopropyl alcohol in the void.
- Twisted and remove grip
- Sprayed isopropyl alcohol inside of grip and slide it on the other end of the bar to the same distance as before
- Marked, center punched, and drilled holes for the pins for both end casings.
- Reassembled the handguards . Note: Since my preferred riding position was about a hundred 180 degrees from where it was, I could utilize the same pin holes for the hand guards after it was flipped end-for-end.
- Reassembled the throttle casing, ensuring the throttle grip was properly seated in the casing halves.
- Reassembled the turn signal/horn/lights casing halves
- Placed the cables inside the cable holders
- Installed the mirrors
The details of what I did:
- Removed the mirrors (one Torx screw per side)
- Removed the hand guards (four socket head cap screws per side)
- Loosened and seperated the throttle casing halves and the throttle grip itself (three Torx screws)
- Loosened and seperated the turn signal/horn/lights casing halves (two Torx screws)
- Removed cables from cable holders (carefully)
- Removed bar clamps and screws (four socket head cap screws)
- Flipped handlebar end-for-end and ensured I slid the throttle housing over handlebar end before placing into the adjustment cradle.
- Replaced the bar clamps and screws. Test fit preferred angle then fully tighten the four socket head screws.
- Inserted a thin screwdriver between grip and handlebar; prying outward to form a gap... then sprayed isopropyl alcohol in the void.
- Twisted and remove grip
- Sprayed isopropyl alcohol inside of grip and slide it on the other end of the bar to the same distance as before
- Marked, center punched, and drilled holes for the pins for both end casings.
- Reassembled the handguards . Note: Since my preferred riding position was about a hundred 180 degrees from where it was, I could utilize the same pin holes for the hand guards after it was flipped end-for-end.
- Reassembled the throttle casing, ensuring the throttle grip was properly seated in the casing halves.
- Reassembled the turn signal/horn/lights casing halves
- Placed the cables inside the cable holders
- Installed the mirrors
Gunner3773
Member
Handlebars might be a great aftermarket possibility for the Ryker!
Michaelscs
Member
Can-am has 2 addition handlebar options for the Ryker. The Cross-Style & Sport. https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/shop/ryker-accessories/handlebars.html Both are priced at $100.
CTAC thanks for your detailed description of your DIY handlebar project. Probably a great way to save a 100 bucks with just a little extra labor.
Next project is the under body light kit.
Similar threads
