Givi V35 Locked on Spyder

[Old Jack]

I just picked my New (used) ride. A 2009 Spyder SE5.

It came with a Set of GIVI V35 side cases.

My question has anyone ever had the side cases jammed in place. When I turn the key 90 % the front case opens but when I push the rear button to remove the case only one side of the latch seems to unlatch. The funny thing is that it is on both the right and left side bag (same problem only one latch reacts and they are not binding as I can rattle the cases slightly when they are in place). I would like them off for daily riding but don't want to damage them by really getting aggressive with the latch.

Look forward to hearing from anyone that has has had same problem or with a solution.

 

[NancysToy]

Common with the Givi bags. Lubricating the mechanisms with a plastic-safe spray lube, will help, but they should come off first. We have found that pushing in on them (toward the Spyder) while pushing the button, usually helps. Just give a little bump with the side of your leg or hip, ur use a shrp blow inward with the palm of your other hand. Also, if one latch comes loose but the other does not, try a little wiggle while pushing the button. BTW, that will be the side that needs the most lube. You can lube them on the Spyder, but it is messier.

 

[Old Jack]

Scotty;

Thank you for the suggestions, I have been twisting, banging on them, and trying to free them with no success, I will see if I can come up with some lube tomorrow and give that a try.

I noticed that there are a number of screws inside the case that seem to in my opinion might be holding the latches in place. Thats my next step if the lube fails, is to try and take them apart from the inside. I bought the bike used, so I am not sure if the bags were installed by the Dealer. I know they would be about a year old, and that Givi has a two year warranty, but up here in Canada that could be a problem. That said I would need to get them off just to send them in if necessary.

 

[pathfinderjoe]

BRP/Givi bags

I have the BRP/Givi system. I always have to push against the bag with my leg and push down on the release button. This is still the case even after using dry lube. However, I still like the bags and mounting system.

 

[Jim Haebe]

Givi Bags

I have had the same problem with them getting stuck. My solution was to open the case and remove the screws that secure the latch mechanism. I oil my bags everyday when I am traveling at the end of the day. I use a silicone lube that dries. This is especially important if you have been riding in the rain.
Hope this helps you...Jim

 

[Neez]

What worked for me was, while holding the bag in with my hip, I held the butt end of a wooden hammer handle against the inner red button. Then I slapped the top of the hammer head, (don't over do it.) The impact sprung the latches, worked on both bags. Once you have the bags off, you will be able to liberally lube the latch mechanism. Keep it lubed and you won't have to use this method again.

 

[WackyDan]

YEah...

I've had to put some serious pulling on one of mine now and then... The whole spyder rocked back and forth... and then POP! it comes off. Never hurt anything.

Now that I have some mileage on them, they are coming off far easier.

 

[groundeffect]

Interesting thread - Old Jack - at least there are some options - perhaps opening the cover and disassembling the connections from the inside is a good option since they seem to be difficult to remove from this point. Once removed, hopefully some lubrication will keep them from sticking like they are now.


You guys suggest a good lubricate that is nice to plastics? WD-40 claims it is safe for plastics at least from:

WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.


Thoughts/Suggestions?

 

[Old Jack]

I would like to thank you all, I will attempt to take the units apart today by removing the screws from the inside of the case and see it will unlatch, I know once I get them off I will make sure they are lubed regularly.

I will let you all know how I make out.

 

[WackyDan]

Interesting thread - Old Jack - at least there are some options - perhaps opening the cover and disassembling the connections from the inside is a good option since they seem to be difficult to remove from this point. Once removed, hopefully some lubrication will keep them from sticking like they are now.


You guys suggest a good lubricate that is nice to plastics? WD-40 claims it is safe for plastics at least from:

WD-40 can be used on just about everything. It is safe for metal, rubber, wood and plastic. WD-40 can be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40.


Thoughts/Suggestions?

I use a garage door opener lube specifically safe for plastics. Called "Blaster" ????

 

[Neez]

You guys suggest a good lubricate that is nice to plastics?

I use a Dow Corning silicon spray product called "Molykote 4X". Whatever you use, try a bit of it on an inconspicuous spot on the inside of the bag first. When lubing, wipe up any excess, of course. I did try a graphite based garage door lube, but it was messy, don't recommend it. I did not try WD-40, so I don't know about it. The silicon seems to last well between lubings.

 

[groundeffect]

thanks for the reply guys.


Old Jack - let us know how you make out.
Cheers.

 

[tatt2r]

i had to take 2 allen head bolts out of back of locking mech. no problem after that

 

[Old Jack]

I had to take all of the screws out of the inside of the case and when I did the guts came apart no problem and the cases came off the bike.

Other than some dry looking grease on the latch springs, the unit is totally dry of lube. Going shopping for lube tonight and I think with the proper stuff my problem should be cured. These bags are less that a year old and the bike I bought only has 1650K on it (about 1100 miles) and was keep indoors in a heated garage. The only metal parts in these things are a couple of springs and the lock itself the rest is plastic. (not that that is bad)

Once I get them lubed and back functioning I will let you know.

 

[groundeffect]

I had to take all of the screws out of the inside of the case and when I did the guts came apart no problem and the cases came off the bike.

Other than some dry looking grease on the latch springs, the unit is totally dry of lube. Going shopping for lube tonight and I think with the proper stuff my problem should be cured. These bags are less that a year old and the bike I bought only has 1650K on it (about 1100 miles) and was keep indoors in a heated garage. The only metal parts in these things are a couple of springs and the lock itself the rest is plastic. (not that that is bad)

Once I get them lubed and back functioning I will let you know.

Glad you got 'em off ok! :thumbup:

My bags are fairly new also and being my only vehicle by choice, I ride and commute on my Spyder year round in all kinds of weather. I've already rode in the rain several times with them. So, even though I'm not having any issue with my locks/connections to the rack I'll take a closer look today and do a little preventative maintenance.

Cheers good luck and yes please let us know how you make out.
Dean

 

[Old Jack]

Well, I got some silicon grease, took the whole unit apart (which is pretty easy) and greased all sliding parts. After working for IBM for many years their rules were “if it turns oil it, if it slides grease it”.

These units have quite a number of parts that slide, and very few that turn.

The units now work, very slick, open and close every time when ever the bags are on the table, simple latch and hit the release button and they are open, I guess like they should.

That said I installed them back on the bike and bang, locked in place, and I can’t seem to push the red release button far enough down to release the hooks.

I am being to suspect that the when you push the release button down it is not being able to be pushed far enough to open the latches (hooks), and is being stopped by the travel of the centre latch, the aluminium looking latch that attaches the bag just below the rail.

There is a internal slider that when you push the red release button down it does two things, releases the hooks and pushed the centre latch down far enough to release the bags. There does not seem to be anyway to adjust this latch, in my case, so that the hooks release before the centre latch reaches full travel.

I did Email GIVI a couple of days ago but so far not response.

I will keep in touch as the saga moves forward.

 

[Dudley]

Try moving the bags as you push on the button. Just kinda push, pull, etc. If I remember, the GIVI instructions tell you to pull up and out on the bags while pressing the button. The silver latch has a purpose, so you cannot modify it.

 

[groundeffect]

I just lubricated mine - the visible items (the springs and small pins/hinges around the latches) without taking them apart from the inside of the bag.


In general I find that one latch (the one towards the front of the spyder) disconnects first as I push down on the RED release button and on the way up it releases the rear latch.

Give it another try with a little more movement, hopefully you'll had better results.

 

[Old Jack]

Well I think the problem is solved, as I figured the problem is that the centre latch is preventing the red unlatching button from going full travel to allow both hock latches to release.

When I take the centre latch off the machine the bags work every time and both latches at once.

The solution seems to be using a Dremel tool to elongate the holes for the center latch mounting screws, so it can be lowered about a 8 th of a inch and therefore allowing the red button to travel a little bit farther downward and therefore releasing the hooks.

When I get a new bit for my tool, I will let you know if it worked.

Later


PS.

Groundeffect, I think you hit it on the head, lack of up and down movement. My bags are a very tight fit, so you steered me in the right direction.

 

[groundeffect]

Groundeffect, I think you hit it on the head, lack of up and down movement. My bags are a very tight fit, so you steered me in the right direction.

Glad you are making progress on this, great stuff.:thumbup:

You have me thinking now about the rack your bags mount on. I have the BRP R35 bag / rack system and I think you mentioned you have another rack system. I am wondering if the rack you have is ever so slightly twisted or similar, causing undue stress on the bags which may be adding to the issue of getting the bags off. On my BRP R35 bags the rack the bags mount on have to be installed and secured/tightened in a certain sequence. Not sure on this and if it applies to yours, but just a thought. Perhaps the racking/mount system holds an answer or two on this?

At any rate, I would try checking the rack/mount points first before taking the drill/dremel to it, just to check it out before attempting a destructive fix.

Cheers.
Dean