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FYI-Shell Rotella synthetic

Scotty

It's difficult to argue with personal anecdotes from folks who say "I used brand x oil, now my Spyder is all kerflooey" but on page 563 of the shop manual, it lists

"5W40 BRP synthetic oil or equivalent motorcycle oil"

so what should our concern be about non-spec oil?

I don't want this to turn into the great Gas Mileage War posts of the summer of '07, but I'm slow in following what's the issue, unless it's that the shop manual itself is too vague...?

Or, should we all be sending a 3000 mile and a 6000 mile sample into Blackstone for an oil analysis?? Then at least we'd have data...???
As far as BRP is concerned, that is the spec they accept. A 10W-40 or an oil that doesn't specify "for motorcycle use" technically does not meet the spec. It seems silly. Almost all vehicles actually give a table with a range of acceptable viscosities. BRP does not, nor do they specify different viscosities for different temperatures. Surely what is best for riding in Canada in the chilly Spring is not the same as what is best for riding in Texas in August. Oil analysis would do no good, since the BRP spec is for very frequent changes, not oil condition. Bottom line is that we use "5W-40 BRP synthetic oil or equivalent motorcycle oil", or we take a risk. That risk would be there for any other viscosity, any non-synthetic or synthetic blend or any mineral oil, or even an oil not specifically labeled as acceptable for motorcycles. Until BRP relaxes this standard in writing, we all have to be aware that if we have engine failures, we might be forced to prove the oil did not cause the problem if BRP chose not to warranty the failure based on our choice of a non-spec oil. Let's hope it is never an issue for anybody, but owners should be aware of the possibility...and the possible consequences. From that point on, like crossing a busy street, the choice is ours.
-Scotty
 
Tell them to make a 5w40 and I'll buy it tomorrow!

I called the Royal Purple people and talked to a technician about the oil. We chatted well over 15 minutes as he answered my questions about oil, viscosities, etc. He was very informative and explained things to me in as simple a language as he could. When I got off the phone, I ordered the 10W40 Motorcycle Oil from the nearest dealer (no freight charge, under $14/qt). Ordered it on Friday, picked it up Monday, changed it Wednesday. He also said that their 5W40 Automotive oil would not damage the clutch because they do not use (forgot the term he used) that some other oils use to reduce friction. I remember the days before "motorcycle oil", I used whatever I could get, and never slipped the clutch. But I know that some oils will cause slippage. I just haven't used the wrong one, I guess. I will continue to monitor any differences I can see in our Spyder and post same. Again, what does one do??? The choice is yours.
 
I called the Royal Purple people and talked to a technician about the oil. We chatted well over 15 minutes as he answered my questions about oil, viscosities, etc. He was very informative and explained things to me in as simple a language as he could. When I got off the phone, I ordered the 10W40 Motorcycle Oil from the nearest dealer (no freight charge, under $14/qt). Ordered it on Friday, picked it up Monday, changed it Wednesday. He also said that their 5W40 Automotive oil would not damage the clutch because they do not use (forgot the term he used) that some other oils use to reduce friction. I remember the days before "motorcycle oil", I used whatever I could get, and never slipped the clutch. But I know that some oils will cause slippage. I just haven't used the wrong one, I guess. I will continue to monitor any differences I can see in our Spyder and post same. Again, what does one do??? The choice is yours.

I believe the term you're looking for is 'Modifiers'.

I'm still gonna stick with 5w40 BRP oil for now. Maybe Royal will come out with a 5w40 motorcycle oil sometime?

Is there really a difference between RP auto and MC oils then?

I checked a bottle of Rotella T (blue) at Advanced Auto today and it clearly says SM rated on the back - so it does NOT meet Spyder requirements. Use at own risk.

Maybe SM stands for Slippery Modifiers - :D
 
I believe the term you're looking for is 'Modifiers'.

I'm still gonna stick with 5w40 BRP oil for now. Maybe Royal will come out with a 5w40 motorcycle oil sometime?

Is there really a difference between RP auto and MC oils then?

I checked a bottle of Rotella T (blue) at Advanced Auto today and it clearly says SM rated on the back - so it does NOT meet Spyder requirements. Use at own risk.

Maybe SM stands for Slippery Modifiers - :D


Their toll free number...888-382-6300. Ask them anything you want.
 
The oil debate continues.BRP has cahnged their oil for the spyder.Went to my local dealer to get the BRP synthetic and was handed the new synthetic blend.The full synthetic and the blend now have the same product number.Like the knee pads,and brake pads they have changed the product but kept the same product code.Dealer said BRP is phasing out the full synthetic.
 
The oil debate continues.BRP has cahnged their oil for the spyder.Went to my local dealer to get the BRP synthetic and was handed the new synthetic blend.The full synthetic and the blend now have the same product number.Like the knee pads,and brake pads they have changed the product but kept the same product code.Dealer said BRP is phasing out the full synthetic.
Yeah, that's what some dealers have said, and the same part number just about cinches the rumor. Unfortunately, BRP still specifies a full synthetic. They need to come out with a service bulletin saying what is appropriate and what is not. Their own darned oil now fails to meet their spec. That opens up any number of ugly scenarios! This whole business is totally unacceptable!!!
-Scotty
 
Yeah, that's what some dealers have said, and the same part number just about cinches the rumor. Unfortunately, BRP still specifies a full synthetic. They need to come out with a service bulletin saying what is appropriate and what is not. Their own darned oil now fails to meet their spec. That opens up any number of ugly scenarios! This whole business is totally unacceptable!!!
-Scotty

I am now wondering if the oil can have an effect on the SE5 shifting. The clutch is a centifical operation depending on the RPM's of the motor. If the oil is too thick, etc. would that have an effect on how that clutch will operate. I have (dealer installed) Amsoil 10-40 and not the 5-40 recommended. Do you think that would make the clutch sluggish?

Anyone, Scotty, Lamonster... :chat:

Juice
 
I am now wondering if the oil can have an effect on the SE5 shifting. The clutch is a centifical operation depending on the RPM's of the motor. If the oil is too thick, etc. would that have an effect on how that clutch will operate. I have (dealer installed) Amsoil 10-40 and not the 5-40 recommended. Do you think that would make the clutch sluggish?

Anyone, Scotty, Lamonster... :chat:

Juice

It might have a slight effect when it's cold but I wouldn't think that the difference between 5-40 and 10-40 is enough to matter.
 
Rotella in the BLUE Bottle

You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.

I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.

You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.

I break-in all my machines with the rotella 5/40 in the blue bottle. I have never had one clutch slip because this oil has the correct rating.

Break-in oil change schedule for me is... and before anyone says "over kill" on oil/filters changes... remember all those tiny glittering particles you can see in the sunlight are metal machining particles.

I change oil and filter after first 50 to 60 miles, Then again at 800 miles then the next change is at 1800 to 2000 miles. After that I go to the regular schedule for the leading synthetic oil. Also if there is a differential as with the GL series of road cruisers. That gets changed at the 800 mile oil change and again at 1800 to 2000. This is the way that most racers break them in... "knock on wood" I've never had an engine, clutch or tranny problem.

Last but not least... I never ever let a dealer touch my oil and filter. Some do what they say but there are many that do not and you really don't know what you are getting unless you do it yourself. Don't believe me? Try using a felt tip marker and you may find I'm right and if you are lucky enough to get a good dealer... well then... I'll be wrong. There is always an exception to every rule.
 
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...The full synthetic and the blend now have the same product number.Like the knee pads,and brake pads they have changed the product but kept the same product code....


XP-S 4-Stroke Synthetic Blend Oil - Summer grade
Sku # 293600121 1 Quart / 946 ml

XP-S 4-Stroke Synthetic - Winter grade
Sku # 293600112 1 Quart / 946 ml



:dontknow::hun:
 
You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.

I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.

You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.

Make sure you look closely at the blue bottle Rotella oil. They have changed the formula. It now has an SM rating. I looked at all the bottles at my local Walmart and they were all the new formula. I did find (and bought) the last 3 gallons at Auto Zone. I am sure when they reorder it will be with the new formula so look closely and buy up all the older gallons you can find!
 
Oil and clutch plates

Be sure when you change your oil to "NEVER" use any oil that says "Energy Conservation" on the bottle. This type of oil has friction modifiers in it and it will definitely make a wet clutch slip.

Only use oil that is designed for wet clutches and motorcycles.

Now I'll go back to sleep...
 
Rotella oil

You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.

I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.

You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.

Make sure you look closely at the blue bottle Rotella oil. They have changed the formula. It now has an SM rating. I looked at all the bottles at my local Walmart and they were all the new formula. I did find (and bought) the last 3 gallons at Auto Zone. I am sure when they reorder it will be with the new formula so look closely and buy up all the older gallons you can find!

I have some motorcycle buddies that use Rotella oil, and I know of no real issues they are having; However, that being said, Rotella T is Truck oil and it is not certified for motorcycle use. The ONLY certification for motorcycles that use a common sump for the clutch, tranny, and engine is: JASCO MA. I will not put a drop of anything in my motorcycles unless it is certified "JASCO MA."
 
there are two different blue bottles of Rotella T 5-40 synthetic, one that i found in walmart is sm and GF4 rated, the one i got in Pepboys is rated CI/4plus-SL and says ADVANCED SOOT CONTROL in 1/4" letters above rotella on the front of the bottle, it shifts the same as the amsoil to me:dontknow:
 
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