• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

fuel gauge replacement - anything a/mkt available?

Semper Fi

New member
The fuel gauge on my Spyder is horrible! It is hard to tell if I need gas, if it is full or empty or, if there is fuel in it. All the gauge wants to do is, have the needle go back and forth. I wish I had a digital gauge. My Yamaha FJR has one. Can the one on the Spyder be repalced with a digital gauge or, do we just have to live with what we have?
 
If we knew which year and model bike you were talking about; it would be useful... :D
Truthfully; use your trip odometers to decide that you've travelled far enough to re-fuel... :thumbup:
My 2014 RT's fuel gauge happens to be about the MOST accurate gauge that I've ever had in ANY vehicle.
Like clockwork: the low fuel light comes on at 5.5 gallons of fuel used. I've come to trust it enough, to ride by the gauge...
 
The 2010 to 2013 RTs had gauges that were a bit... unreliable! :shocked:
While the subsequent bikes have gauges that are MUCH more accurate; it's tough to tell what made them so.
Is it in the gauge, or the sending unit? :dontknow:
I used to stop my 2010 RT at between 135, and 150 miles for fuel. It would usually take just about four gallons or so...
The low fuel light; would start getting "noisy" at 160 miles...

A lot of us put our bike info on our signature lines... :thumbup:
 
The 2010 to 2013 RTs had gauges that were a bit... unreliable! :shocked:
While the subsequent bikes have gauges that are MUCH more accurate; it's tough to tell what made them so.
Is it in the gauge, or the sending unit? :dontknow:
I used to stop my 2010 RT at between 135, and 150 miles for fuel. It would usually take just about four gallons or so...
The low fuel light; would start getting "noisy" at 160 miles...

A lot of us put our bike info on our signature lines... :thumbup:

what you have said here is, almost exactly what I do. I am not ure what you "signature" line is.
 
:D I'd say that "Great minds think alike.", but I wouldn't want to insult you... :D

Your signature line shows up at the bottom of each post...
I've got pictures of my two RTs, and just a brief description of the current bike.
But you can put just about anything in there... :thumbup:
 
OK, I got you. I knew about that but, I was thinking you were referring to something on the bike. Anyway, is the a way to replace that gauge? One thing that bugs me the most is, like you have already said, when I stop for gas I only put about 4 to 4 and 1/2 gallon in a 6 gallon tank!

Here is a pic of the Spyder and my FJR 1300



 
Unplug the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge so you will get the digital gauges on the display they work better than the analog gauges
 
:opps: I read that as "Analog"... :opps:
My bad!

...need...more...coffee!

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • Cuppa 03.jpg
    Cuppa 03.jpg
    32.7 KB · Views: 706


Try cleaning the connecters on both the tank sender and the back of the gauge itself. This usually helps. Remove them and get a can of electrical cleaner at any auto supply or a little 000 steel wool.

Jack
 
Gas gauge....red light.... Have I got some of these?? I have never looked at either. On my scoots, I figure my mileage by my GPS, zero out my odometer at fill up and hunt for a station around 130-150 depending on where I am. I gas up at every station I see when I get west of Del Rio, TX. There aren't many so a top off is insurance.

Bob Denman....I'll bet you have a gas station every 20 or 30 miles up east......;)

:spyder2:
 
Unplug the fuel gauge and the temperature gauge so you will get the digital gauges on the display they work better than the analog gauges

I did it on both the 2010 (after two fuel gauge replacements) and on the 2011. The digital gauges just pop up on the main screen.

The 2014 gauge is dead solid, and I see no reason for changing that one over.

I look at the gauges, but we always re-set the trip meter to zero on fill up, so we know how many miles we have on the current tank.

The 998 goes about 150 before fuel light and the 1330 goes about 210 before fuel light comes on.
 
If you take the four screws out of the panel that holds the gauges in, you can unplug the Fuel and Temp gauges (you must unplug both), once this is done you will get a digital fuel and temp gauge on the dash, it is much more accurate.

If you need more info feel free to call me 501 580-5595

Be careful not to drop the four screws when taking them out, they will fall into the lower part of your Spyder.

Cruzr Joe
 
Back
Top