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Fried Modules

stillriding

happy old fart
The ryde: 2014 RTS. The problem: trailer wiring power modules. I had BRP's hitch and wiring harness installed, but after pulling my aftermarket trailer one time, the power unit/module "fried" killing all of the trailer's lights. The fuse was still good. Last month my dealer replaced the module with part #710003903 but this one also failed but, again, the fuse is good. Since I had had a problem I went for a test ride with the new module to see if the problem had been resolved. At my first stop the trailer lights were still working. A second stop revealed that the marker lights were out but the rear lights were OK. Upon returning home, all the trailer lights were out. When plugged into my car the trailer lights work fine. The trailer is not BRP's and I'm the third owner. Originally the trailer used five wires with a sixth available to add something if desired. The second owner (a friend) had what appeared to be some weird system that had to be changed. The trailer originally had separate turn signal lights and brake lights. I had the wiring converted to a flat four arrangement with the turn and brake lights being combined and connected to the Spyder's square 4 prong receptacle with an adapter purchased from Mini Trailers. The trailer's wiring appears to be solid with no signs of wear which would produce a short. Be advised though that my electrical knowledge is virtually non-existent. My dealer has ordered another module. The question: is there something specific that I should "strongly suggest" to the Spyder tech to add that is not BRP's standard protocol? I know there was a problem with some 2012 RTs. I've read virtually every thread about trailer wiring problems, but because of my lack of knowledge the fixes bewilder me. I'd hate to have this happen again after the second module is installed (as is happening in the current DESS situation).
 
Bad, intermittent connections can kill the isolation/converter module. This can be anywhere in the wiring but is most likely in the ground circuit. I don't know if this is your problem. But some people think since the trailer is connected to the bike it does not need to be grounded by a wire. Also sometime the ground is only connected to the trailer tongue. Depending on how the trailer is built this may not be good enough. A ground wire should be run to the main trailer chassis aqd better to each major fixture.
 
Bad, intermittent connections can kill the isolation/converter module. This can be anywhere in the wiring but is most likely in the ground circuit. I don't know if this is your problem. But some people think since the trailer is connected to the bike it does not need to be grounded by a wire. Also sometime the ground is only connected to the trailer tongue. Depending on how the trailer is built this may not be good enough. A ground wire should be run to the main trailer chassis aqd better to each major fixture.
​Thanks, Billy.
 
While I'm not defending BRP, I don't believe it's fair to lump the D.E.S.S. module failures, and there have been multiple, with a trailer wiring module failure. You are dealing with two entirely different systems.
 
freied module

I've never had a fried module [nock on wood] :banghead:
Are they better pan fried or deep fried :roflblack:
Just kidding
But trailer modules have been known to go bad
Good luck
 
While I'm not defending BRP, I don't believe it's fair to lump the D.E.S.S. module failures, and there have been multiple, with a trailer wiring module failure. You are dealing with two entirely different systems.[/QUOTActually, I agree. But with two failures already I don't want a similar situation as some have experienced with the DESS. I should have been clearer.
 
Electrical....

it is like finding a roof leak...but seems to be in the harness. Agree with the grounding but follow the harness make sure it is secured and not pinched anywhere..:dontknow:
 
While I'm not defending BRP, I don't believe it's fair to lump the D.E.S.S. module failures, and there have been multiple, with a trailer wiring module failure. You are dealing with two entirely different systems.[/QUOTActually, I agree. But with two failures already I don't want a similar situation as some have experienced with the DESS. I should have been clearer.
Does your trailer use incandescent bulbs and not LED? I wonder if the BRP module was designed to handle only the current load from LEDs and incandescents are overloading it.
 
i have a 10 RT622 trailer and a 14RT when I initially changed the wiring in the trailer I had the same problem as you. Found out that I needed some grounding harness because of something that was different on the 14 RT. ask your dealer to research service bulletins from early 2014 and maybe you can see if it would work for you.
 
i have a 10 RT622 trailer and a 14RT when I initially changed the wiring in the trailer I had the same problem as you. Found out that I needed some grounding harness because of something that was different on the 14 RT. ask your dealer to research service bulletins from early 2014 and maybe you can see if it would work for you.
​Will do. Thanks Ann.
 
Trying to get my 2010 trailer hooked up

After a few pm's to spyder ann and reading all of the posts I can find. If I'm understanding correctly in order to plug my used 2010 trailer into my 2014 rts. I will need to have the wiring redone in the trailer to adapt to the 4 square plug and also to address the grounding issue with the different wiring systems?
 
Redneck I may be but sounds like grounding wire needs to be added. Not knowing how well the non wired connections are you more likely are losing connection @bumps. I believe several have added mentioned cable. I know i will when I get hitch & trailer !


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Third Time's the Charm ???

Thought I'd update the "Fried Module" story on my '14 RTS. My dealer installed my third trailer wiring module yesterday and, thanks to responses from you guys, I also had the tech ground the module (extra ground) and the trailer. Upon arriving home from the dealer which is 28 miles away my trailer lights were still working. I'll still be taking the trailer for some additional test runs before feeling comfortable since the lights did work for a while before the two previous modules fried.
 
Thought I'd update the "Fried Module" story on my '14 RTS. My dealer installed my third trailer wiring module yesterday and, thanks to responses from you guys, I also had the tech ground the module (extra ground) and the trailer. Upon arriving home from the dealer which is 28 miles away my trailer lights were still working. I'll still be taking the trailer for some additional test runs before feeling comfortable since the lights did work for a while before the two previous modules fried.

I hope that fixed your problem once and for all but I agree that you need to make a few runs to be sure. Before I had the grounding harness installed my trailer lights worked for varying amounts of time before blowing the module.
 
I hope that fixed your problem once and for all but I agree that you need to make a few runs to be sure. Before I had the grounding harness installed my trailer lights worked for varying amounts of time before blowing the module.[/QUOTEWent for a 172 mile test run today with a friend and the module still works! However there must be a wiring problem with the trailer because, at times, the marker lights would go out. Tail lights continued to work. I'll closely inspect the wiring to see if I can find a short. The good thing is the new (third) module didn't fail. Perhaps the addition of the two extra ground wires protected it. Does that sound possible?
 
I hope that fixed your problem once and for all but I agree that you need to make a few runs to be sure. Before I had the grounding harness installed my trailer lights worked for varying amounts of time before blowing the module.[/QUOTEWent for a 172 mile test run today with a friend and the module still works! However there must be a wiring problem with the trailer because, at times, the marker lights would go out. Tail lights continued to work. I'll closely inspect the wiring to see if I can find a short. The good thing is the new (third) module didn't fail. Perhaps the addition of the two extra ground wires protected it. Does that sound possible?

From your description you do not have a short. That would blow the fuse. You have a bad connection. Who ever wired your trailer it appears they did a lousy job. So it is possible that you had a bad ground and now it's fix. Hard to tell for sure now. At anytime you have flickering lights from a bad connection whether or not it's from the ground or power side that can kill the module.
 
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