Does someone on here have one of these and use it regularly? If so, can you give me the model # that you use. I'd like to try it on net oil change in the spring. Also one other question. If I can add oil to the Spyder thru the cap/dipstick hole, if I do my own oil change I can't fill it with new oil after an oil & filter change? I just had my oil changed for winter( four month) storage at a dealer and from what I could see he had quite a number of body panels off. Is this necessary? What else do they check at a oil change? Thanks Oh Crap! One more question! I saw a modification made to the skid plate on some Spyders to make an oil change easier & cleaner with less drips & spillage. Anyone tried it?
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Formoto Oil Drain Valves?
- Thread starter Tomline
- Start date
Lew L
Well-known member
YES
Yes I've cut out some ofthe black plastic plates around the drain plugs and even though I haven't done an oil service since the mod I KNOW it will make it easier.
As for the Formoto;
The BRP 1330 cc. drain plugs are more complicated than a simple plug. Much longer (internally) and with 2 "O" rings for some kind of internal sealing. Formoto would need to make one for a CanAm :spyder2:.
Kaos
Yes I've cut out some ofthe black plastic plates around the drain plugs and even though I haven't done an oil service since the mod I KNOW it will make it easier.
As for the Formoto;
The BRP 1330 cc. drain plugs are more complicated than a simple plug. Much longer (internally) and with 2 "O" rings for some kind of internal sealing. Formoto would need to make one for a CanAm :spyder2:.
Kaos
Brentc
Active member
Great timing
I literally just lowered my 2014 rts se6 down from the jacks after doing my oil change for the winter hibernation. I like putting to bed with clean oil versus letting the old oil sit there till spring, just a personal preference. As for body panels, there are a few right side panels that need to come off in order to access the replacement filter element. I lift mine up onto 3 ramps to get a little more room underneath to remove the gearbox and oil side drain plugs that you need to remove and replace o rings and washers on, but you could probably do it from ground level, but I like the extra room to look around while I'm under there. Other than that it's pretty cut and dry. There area few good you tube videos that you can search on a no they will walk you through the process.:thumbup:
I literally just lowered my 2014 rts se6 down from the jacks after doing my oil change for the winter hibernation. I like putting to bed with clean oil versus letting the old oil sit there till spring, just a personal preference. As for body panels, there are a few right side panels that need to come off in order to access the replacement filter element. I lift mine up onto 3 ramps to get a little more room underneath to remove the gearbox and oil side drain plugs that you need to remove and replace o rings and washers on, but you could probably do it from ground level, but I like the extra room to look around while I'm under there. Other than that it's pretty cut and dry. There area few good you tube videos that you can search on a no they will walk you through the process.:thumbup:
r1100rider
New member
as low as a spyder is why would you want to chance it with something that could get raked off and cost a motor or case repair to big of risk vs the small convienience gain IMHO
JayBros
Well-known member
I suggest you read the maintenance section of your owner's manual as it tells what is done at each service interval. If you have a 1330 engine I also suggest you watch this video about changing the oil, as very thorough.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw&feature=youtu.be
I raise my front wheels on wheel ramps that give more than agequate room to drain the oil. You do have to remove some Tupperware but the video explains how to do it. I specifically would discourage using any oil drain valve that extends below the level of the current drain plugs. You are asking for an opportunity to risk some catastrophic damage to your engine should that valve get knocked off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw&feature=youtu.be
I raise my front wheels on wheel ramps that give more than agequate room to drain the oil. You do have to remove some Tupperware but the video explains how to do it. I specifically would discourage using any oil drain valve that extends below the level of the current drain plugs. You are asking for an opportunity to risk some catastrophic damage to your engine should that valve get knocked off.
Stumpy6Guns
New member
I've been using them for years on my cars and trucks. They are convenient, but the oil drains slow through them, and if one gets knocked off it would be disastrous.
My cages don't have the low, low clearance of the Spyder, and I have never had a problem with them, but I'm not installing them on my RTL.
My cages don't have the low, low clearance of the Spyder, and I have never had a problem with them, but I'm not installing them on my RTL.
Chupaca
New member
Well....
I'm with the "not a good idea" group. If you have added the bumpskid and removed the oem plate you may have noticed the damage to it. Would not want that valve opened while crusing along. The widening of the drain plug areas is a good idea. Many have thought they had oil leaks form the oil getting on the plate and later dripping off. Filling through the dip stick can be messy :spyder:
I'm with the "not a good idea" group. If you have added the bumpskid and removed the oem plate you may have noticed the damage to it. Would not want that valve opened while crusing along. The widening of the drain plug areas is a good idea. Many have thought they had oil leaks form the oil getting on the plate and later dripping off. Filling through the dip stick can be messy :spyder:
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