• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

First service charge?? $$

my local dealer quoted $344 + tax for 3000 mile check.. which according to the service manager includes an oil change... (I plan to change the oil myself) so it should be a tad less.. guess i'll have to do the first check but it will be the last one also..

osm
 


My first (3000) oil check on the 2014 RT Limited was $389. Ride Now Sports. $130 per hour. No other dealers within 110 miles. This includes Oil, o rings filter and first complete check.

Jack
 
The 3 cylinder 1330 engines do not need the same service as the V twin's. Not sure how much it would Cindy for them.
 
I was told by my dealer that the first service was at 3000 miles. Is that true, or is it that he dint know


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If you have the 998 two cylinder, first service is 600 miles.

If you have the 1330 three cylinder, first service is 3000 miles.
 
HOLY SH......!!!:yikes: ill definitely do that service my self...

If you have a 2014 1330, no valve check service is required. There are several threads on here about valve check service ($800) for the valves. Most do not do them until around 50,000 miles. Most consider the valve service as BRP overkill.
 
It does not take a brainiac to change oil on anything...but...I read the procedure for the Spyder, it does seem fairly involved. Is it easier with a lift ? Possible with a floor jack ?

Do you find it an easy process or too much of a pain in the keester :opps: to mess with and just go to the dealer. Dealer cost does seem high.


Thanks for your responses. :clap::thumbup:
 
It does not take a brainiac to change oil on anything...but...I read the procedure for the Spyder, it does seem fairly involved. Is it easier with a lift ? Possible with a floor jack ?

Do you find it an easy process or too much of a pain in the keester :opps: to mess with and just go to the dealer. Dealer cost does seem high.


Thanks for your responses. :clap::thumbup:

I am both physically and mechanically challenged. I complain, but let my dealer do all the work. They do good work. Going to see them Wednesday with the 2011. Oil change service and a new rear tire.
 
It does not take a brainiac to change oil on anything...but...I read the procedure for the Spyder, it does seem fairly involved. Is it easier with a lift ? Possible with a floor jack ?

Do you find it an easy process or too much of a pain in the keester :opps: to mess with and just go to the dealer. Dealer cost does seem high.


Thanks for your responses. :clap::thumbup:


It takes longer than in my trucks. BUT it is not that difficult. I have no lift, so I drive the front up on 2 home made ramps. Lifts the front about 5 inches. I jack up the rear and place blocks under the rear tire to the same hight as the front. This gives me enough room to get the drain pan underneath and get the drain plugs out. Not much more to it. Remove and replace the 2 oil filters (SE5). Do not overfill!!! You have to drive it and get the engine and trans hot and then top it off to the proper level.
 
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