Fans running a lot??

[trikermutha]

I never done one but it its on the right side of the engine in front to the oil filter.

Manual says to that the water pump gear may stay in the engine and you will need to remove it from the engine.

Pull out needle pin and withdraw thrust washers with axial needle bearing from water pump shaft.

Check bleeding nozzle in cylinder head if it is clogged. Clean if necessary.

Looks like there are 5 screws holding the water pump.

Water Pump Module Installation
The installation is the opposite of the removal procedure. However, pay attention to the following.
Before installation lubricate: – Water pump shaft – Washers – Axial needle bearing – O-ring.
WATER PUMP PARTS LUBRICATION Service product Engine oil

I didnt copy every detail in the manual but you get the idea.

Water pump screws are 9 ft lbs torque

Thermostat Test Water pump module installed in vehicle Start engine and let engine heat up to operating temperature (higher than 80°C (176°F)). Check if the main supply hose from radiator to water pump module heats up with engine at operating temperature.

 

[Lew L]

.

Thanks triker, new pump is ordered. The new thermostat in part of the water pump -- right???

 

[trikermutha]

Thats what the manual is stating that it is part of the pump.

 

[Mikey]

Was there any fluid dripping from the weep hole on the pump, like I suggested way back when you were adding water to your tank?? Just like to know for future use!!:2thumbs:

 

[Lew L]

Was there any fluid dripping from the weep hole on the pump, like I suggested way back when you were adding water to your tank?? Just like to know for future use!!:2thumbs:

Hi Mikey, Couldn't see any fluid on the ground , even when temp gauge was high ( over 3/4). No fluid lost--- at low mark on tank when cooled off.

So:

Radiators are clean, coolant temp sensor and coolant replaced. :spyder2: does NOT overheat when moving. Any other thoughts??? New pump with thermostat ordered.

Thanks Lew L

 

[trikermutha]

Not much left is there. :thumbup:

 

[UtahPete]

ENGINE OVERHEATING
1.
2. Air in cooling system - Refill and bleed cooling system. - Check bleeding nozzles in water pump module and cylinder head if they are clogged.
3. Thermostat defective (does not open when engine gets hot) - Replace water pump module.
4. Water pump failure - Inspect water pump drive gears. - Inspect and replace defective components.
5.
6. Radiator or hoses damaged - Check or replace damaged components.
7. Internal passage blocked in cooling system - Inspect and clean.

Lew, it might be good to review this checklist. Obviously, with no leaks some of those items have been eliminated. Including, I would think, bad water pump and thermostat, but we'll know for sure after you replace those.

What's puzzling to me is that when you started this thread, I think you were experiencing overheating while moving but now it's only at a standstill. Is that right?

Do the fans still run excessively? Do they both run at all?

HAVE the symptoms changed at all since when you had to have it towed? Seems like they have.

 

[UtahPete]

.

Test ryde to Bodie was a failure. Gauge spiked up coming out of Bodie but cooled on the down hill road to 395. Traffic back up and stoppage caused the gauge to peg. I pulled over, traffic cleared and it was fine the 35 miles to home.

I'm now thinking the water pump/ thermostat. Good price at the local dealer-- I'll have it next week.

Any tips on r and r of the water pump?????

Thanks Lew L

If it runs fine with normal temps while moving, but overheats at low speeds, that's different from before when you had to be towed home, isn't it?

Does the water temp gauge have it's own sensor or does it share one? Is it possible the cooling system is okay, but your water temp gauge / sensor is faulty?

 

[Lew L]

If it runs fine with normal temps while moving, but overheats at low speeds, that's different from before when you had to be towed home, isn't it?

Does the water temp gauge have it's own sensor or does it share one? Is it possible the cooling system is okay, but your water temp gauge / sensor is faulty?

Funny you should ask----- I unhooked the analogue gauges and read the digital gauges on a 20 mile ride today ( in the heat). :spyder2: will heat up when sitting in traffic. Then cool right back down when moving. Not really much different than first incident in Jackson. Hot, hot temps and slow traffic. From what I can tell from the schematics, there is only ONE coolant temp sensor.

Next check today is to see if both fans are running. They are noisy enough but not visual so I'll check both of them.

Thanks Pete

 

[UtahPete]

Funny you should ask----- I unhooked the analogue gauges and read the digital gauges on a 20 mile ride today ( in the heat). :spyder2: will heat up when sitting in traffic. Then cool right back down when moving. Not really much different than first incident in Jackson. Hot, hot temps and slow traffic. From what I can tell from the schematics, there is only ONE coolant temp sensor.

Next check today is to see if both fans are running. They are noisy enough but not visual so I'll check both of them.

Thanks Pete

Something about the way it was acting before caused you to have it towed home rather than riding it. Has anything changed in the way it operates since then?

 

[trikermutha]

should be easy to check once you disconnect the CTS sensor. Both fans will turn on.

 

[Lew L]

Something about the way it was acting before caused you to have it towed home rather than riding it. Has anything changed in the way it operates since then?

No. Still overheats in slow or stopped traffic. Still need to check the fans. I'll run it and look closely rather than pull tupperware. New waterpump and thermostat ( built in) are on order.

The way it was acting was overheating. Jackson Ca is around 2000ft and home is around 140 miles away over an 8000 ft pass in the Sierra Nevada mts. You bet I'll use my AAA ( 20 year member) to get an ailing :spyder2:home. It took longer but no worries about hurting the motor and cost $0.00 Two of my ryding buddies even followed us almost to my house. Good friends.

AAA is not licensed to do interstate trucking so another flat be met us at the border and took me right to my house.

Lew L

 

[UtahPete]

No. Still need to check the fans. I'll run it and look closely rather than pull tupperware.

So, when you were in Nevada, it was only running hot at idle or stop-n-go traffic, same as now? It was running fine at speed?

 

[Lew L]

So, when you were in Nevada, it was only running hot at idle or stop-n-go traffic, same as now? It was running fine at speed?

Yes.........Same as in California.

 

[UtahPete]

Yes.........Same as in California.

Hmmm, overheating only at low speed, combined with no leakage of coolant I'm guessing it isn't the water pump / thermostat.

Odds are more in favor of some kind of problem with radiators or fans I think.

 

[bluewoo]

I see the water pump is gear driven (plastic). At least you will remove those from the list if the problem still persist. (water pump/therm stat)
If the water pump impellers are worn this could be the culprit or make sure the fans are going in the right direction too. I know they blow forward when stopped and pull the other way when moving forward if I'm correct. Honda had an issue with the Goldwing's doing the same and they changed the programing due to the fans blowing forward up to a set MPH and it was causing the air flow to stall and the gold wing would over heat at low speeds. (bike moving forward and fans blowing in same direction)
My new spyder and 2018 both will blow forward at a stop and as soon as the spyder moves the fans change direction and blow out the back.
Elevations not helping the situation either, have you replaced the cap too?

 

[Lew L]

I see the water pump is gear driven (plastic). At least you will remove those from the list if the problem still persist. (water pump/therm stat)
If the water pump impellers are worn this could be the culprit or make sure the fans are going in the right direction too. I know they blow forward when stopped and pull the other way when moving forward if I'm correct. Honda had an issue with the Goldwing's doing the same and they changed the programing due to the fans blowing forward up to a set MPH and it was causing the air flow to stall and the gold wing would over heat at low speeds. (bike moving forward and fans blowing in same direction)
My new spyder and 2018 both will blow forward at a stop and as soon as the spyder moves the fans change direction and blow out the back.
Elevations not helping the situation either, have you replaced the cap too?

Plastic you say Plastic gears:banghead::banghead: In a motor!!!! :cus::cus: I had a HiPo mustang ( hotted up of course to Shelby specs.) and it had a plastic gear in the motor ( pieces found during and oil change.) Hoping the gear on the camshaft ( that drives the water pump is steel. BRP should know better.
Oil and filter change must be next too---------

Lew L

 

[Lew L]

Hmmm, overheating only at low speed, combined with no leakage of coolant I'm guessing it isn't the water pump / thermostat.

Odds are more in favor of some kind of problem with radiators or fans I think.

Preparing to check the fans today or tomorrow ( It's closing in on 100*F) and higher in town.

 

[trikermutha]

Yep ! Plastico gears on the water pump and engine it looks like. Along with the plastico water pump. :shocked:

 

[UtahPete]

Yep ! Plastico gears on the water pump and engine it looks like. Along with the plastico water pump. :shocked:

Do you think that if the water pump had failed, there would be no overheating at highway speed, say?

I'm no expert...just trying to learn something from the experts.