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Fans running a lot??

So the test passed for the CTS. or was that the new one and you are still going to test the old?

Anyway good luck

Yes I'll still test the old one with hot water ( and the appropriate tools). New one tested fine. Will be draining the coolant today and replacing the CTS. I was amazed that the local dealer: 1. had it in stock and 2. Had 11 of them in stock.
 
Yes I'll still test the old one with hot water ( and the appropriate tools). New one tested fine. Will be draining the coolant today and replacing the CTS. I was amazed that the local dealer: 1. had it in stock and 2. Had 11 of them in stock.

Cool sounds like your all set.:thumbup:
 
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Well maybe not as the old CTS tested ok and in spec. I'll run it for a while in the 82* weather today and well see.
 
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Well------ All seems well. Ran it for 45 min , much of it uphill. Did some low and slow, and idling. Fans came on and off. Seemed very normal. Checked the reservoir half an hour after I got home and added a bit to the half way between the hot and cold marks.
There will be more ryding in hot weather also. In the end I don't know why it overheated as the old CTS tested within spec with proper testing.:banghead:

Again , I thank all of you guys who helped me .

Lew L
 
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Besides the water pump and thermostat I am sure you flushed the radiators out?

It just dont over heat for no reason.

Still may have a sticky thermostat.

Well good luck!
 
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Radiators flushed before filling. An intermittent connection could cause problems also. Isn't the thermostat built into the water pump???? I'll check the schematics to see if it's a seperate item like all the other vehicles.
Lew L
 
The thermostat is part of the water pump.. Well hope your right on the connection.

Thermostat Test

Water pump module installed in vehicle Start engine and let engine heat up to operating temperature (higher than 80°C (176°F)).

Check if the main supply hose from radiator to water pump module heats up with engine at operating temperature.
 
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Still doing short (20 to 30) mile rydes in warm to hot weather. Will check hoses next time I ryde and then put the spyder up unless that hose is accessible from the right side with out tupperware removal.

Thanks again triker-your info has been invaluable.

Lew L
 
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Checked the hose. Is it the one that comes out of the right hand radiator???? Was warm to warmer but not hot and the fans had just been on, temp gauge was normal. :dontknow: Puzzling??
 
The flow chart shows that hose is flowing out of the engine from the water pump and they return thru the radiators back out the top to the water pump .

There should be a T- to feed both radiators at the bottom. That flows out of the engine thru the water pump out the top of the radiators back to the water pump.

Have your laser thermometer handy?
 
The flow chart shows that hose is flowing out of the engine from the water pump and they return thru the radiators back out the top to the water pump .

There should be a T- to feed both radiators at the bottom. That flows out of the engine thru the water pump out the top of the radiators back to the water pump.

Have your laser thermometer handy?

Yes I do..........I think the one I checked was coolant that has gone through the radiator. This is NOT the one you're talking about?
 
Start checking radiator temps,hoses etc.

Here is when the fans turn on.

Turn on @ 102°C (216°F)
Turn off @ 96°C (205°F)


Radiator cap opening pressure.90 kPa (13 PSI)
 
The cooling system keeps the temperature constant. A separate coolant tank ensures that enough engine coolant is in the circuit during any operating condition. The coolant flow comes from the water pump module and goes into the cylinder head. Afterwards coolant is directed to the oil radiator for cooling the engine oil, and to the cylinder block. In the cylinder head the water channels flow around the exhaust and then the intake valves. From there the coolant goes back to the water pump module. At cold engine coolant flows through a bypass channel to the thermostat directly back to the water pump impeller and back into the engine. When engine has reached operating temperature the thermostat opens completely and closes the bypass channel completely. Then coolant takes the way through the radiator.
 
ENGINE OVERHEATING
1. Low coolant level. - Refill and check for leaks (coolant leaking out of engine leak indicator hole, hoses or clamps missing/defective, cylinder head gaskets leaks, ride plate leaking, etc.). Repair or replace.
2. Air in cooling system - Refill and bleed cooling system. - Check bleeding nozzles in water pump module and cylinder head if they are clogged.
3. Thermostat defective (does not open when engine gets hot) - Replace water pump module.
4. Water pump failure - Inspect water pump drive gears. - Inspect and replace defective components.
5. Water temperature sensor defective - Check or replace. Refer to ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION (EFI).
6. Radiator or hoses damaged - Check or replace damaged components.
7. Internal passage blocked in cooling system - Inspect and clean.
 
Happy TRAils Lew stay cool. "Stay cool as you can. Face piles of trials with smiles. It riles them to believe that you persieve the web they weave". Moody Blues.
Sounds like a great ride.
 
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Test ryde to Bodie was a failure. Gauge spiked up coming out of Bodie but cooled on the down hill road to 395. Traffic back up and stoppage caused the gauge to peg. I pulled over, traffic cleared and it was fine the 35 miles to home.

I'm now thinking the water pump/ thermostat. Good price at the local dealer-- I'll have it next week.

Any tips on r and r of the water pump?????

Thanks Lew L
 
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