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F3 two up shock
- Thread starter kkcdcdc
- Start date
spacetiger
New member
Thought i would post this so more people could see..
New two up F3 shock
$213.49 plus $60 installation
see any difference..
Good post to stimulate rider discussion on the board. There are a number of ways to address the weakness of the OEM design; weak springs front and rear especially when riding 2 up.
My experience has been that the damping function of the shock is good enough; its the weak springs you have to fix. So now we have an option to swap out oem shock with one with a better spring for $213.49 + tax. Or... just swap out the springs with a Eibach, Hypercoil, or custom spring. Springs are in the ~$85 each range. Depending on your total weight range for the RT bike, I think you can get by with 450 lbs/in for the front and 850 lbs/in. I used 550 lbs/in up front (a bit stiff for solo work, but not objectionable) and 800 lbs/in for the rear. With the springs I used and they were very nice with 2 up riding.
Jerry
BamaJohn
Active member
Thought i would post this so more people could see..
New two up F3 shock
$213.49 plus $60 installation
see any difference..
With the frame reinforcement completed, I ordered the beefier rear shock yesterday. Will install it myself...should be a two-beer job. :cheers:
JB
MMMII
New member
Didn't this used to be listed in the new catalog?
vondalyn
New member
putting it on now
mine doesn't look quite so dramatically different like that first picture. The shock looks the same, the spring is definitely better. EDIT: I guess it's the same as the first picture, but for some reason seeing it in person made it look different to me.
mine doesn't look quite so dramatically different like that first picture. The shock looks the same, the spring is definitely better. EDIT: I guess it's the same as the first picture, but for some reason seeing it in person made it look different to me.
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juscuz
Member
Thought i would post this so more people could see..
New two up F3 shock
$213.49 plus $60 installation
see any difference..
Saw this at 2WheelPros.com for 194.97 part number219400739.
vondalyn
New member
Not difficult. I think the instructions say 30 minutes, but because we were being careful when taking body panels off & back on, it took nearly 2 hours.
BLUEZL600EFI
New member
BamaJohn
Active member
Installed mine yesterday, and it was easy, but (as always) a bit of learning curve the first time..I could do the second one in half the time) :f_spider: The test ride was surprising, in that the ride is much less-harsh; the rear end doesn't sag as before when I mount up; and the ride on the local bumpy roads was MUCH smoother!
Some might suggest that it's just the old thing about the bike running better after an oil change, but I honestly feel the difference in my butt and back...no bottoming out and much smoother...the best $180 I've spent on "Buster".
I'll try to post a link with photos and instructions, but here's a starter:
1. Chock both front wheels so the spyder doesn't move when the rear is jacked up.
2. Place a small hydraulic jack of your choice under the rear of the box frame (just forward of the primary muffler), and lift until the rear tire is barely off the ground...then lower it until the rear tire barely touches the ground (this will be about the right position to take the load off the shock and yet keep the shock bolts from being under tension when removing them).
3. Remove the rear seat only.
4. (if you have BRP side cases, remove both of them)
5. Get a 15mm box wrench and socket with extension(s) for the shock bolts.
6. Pay attention to the orientation of the bolt head...they are different from top to bottom...the bolt head at the top of the shock is on the left side, and on the bottom it's on the right side.
7. Remove the plastic splash pan under the seats. There are 2 torx screws on top under the rear seat, and 15 underneath (12 of which are in the 4 panels you'll see readily. I'll send photos of the two on top under the seat, as there are a bunch, and you only remove two...the CORRECT 2 :f_spider:
8. Remove the original shock and put it aside.
9. Install the new shock..you may need to make slight adjustments to the jack height in order to slip in the lower bolt so as to NOT bugger up the threads on the bolt. When you get it lined up correctly, the bolt will slip into place without forcing it.
10. Reinstall the plastic splash pan.
11. Reinstall the rear seat.
12. GO FOR A TEST RIDE AND ENJOY THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOR!
Cheers JB
Sccar
Member
MMMII
New member
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