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Extra fuel idea - what do you think?

ARTraveler wrote: "Everyone is entitled to their opinion. As long as they follow the site rules[/I]. It is okay to express your ideas. In a group as large as ours, there are always going to be ideas from both sides of the spectrum. Both sides can express their ideas without attacking the other side."

Pretty funny statement considering you just 'cancelled' my opinion by removing it. I did not 'attack' anyone. I simply asked why some folks find it necessary to poop poop other's ideas.

Appears I stepped on someone's toes!


Since you want to take this public...I have highlighted what I believe to be the pertinent points.

You did attack those who are not totally on board with your way of thinking. As for me, I am not personally offended by your statement. After moderating for four years plus, I have a very thick skin. Your statement may have offended others, hence it was removed.

The good thing for you...this was no harm, no fault. You were not infracted for the issue. I suggest letting it ride. :bowdown:
 
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Another option....

For years when touring I carried a syphon tube. It was a long clear plastic tube about 3/8 inch in diameter with a rubber squeeze bulb in the middle. For a fuel "tank" to syphon into, I carried a (couple) 1 gallon plastic zip-bags. Never had to use it but it was there in an emergency for me or others. And, it weighed next to nothing and didn't take up any valuable space..... Jim

GAS....in a plastic zyploc? or am I not thinking right!
 
My bad. I now understand the error of my ways. I'm from New Jersey where opinions aren't attacks.
Thank you for enlightening me. :bowdown:
 
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GAS....in a plastic zyploc? or am I not thinking right!

The intent was to use the bag to move the fuel from one vehicle to another, not for any kind of storage. My thoughts were that fuel could be syphoned from a vehicle into a bag and then poured from the bag into the vehicle needing fuel. Since you can't syphon up hill, the bag could be placed on the ground and the syphon would work regardless of the height of the doner fuel supply. The bag would then be disposed of.
 
The intent was to use the bag to move the fuel from one vehicle to another, not for any kind of storage. My thoughts were that fuel could be syphoned from a vehicle into a bag and then poured from the bag into the vehicle needing fuel. Since you can't syphon up hill, the bag could be placed on the ground and the syphon would work regardless of the height of the doner fuel supply. The bag would then be disposed of.

Just one comment before returning this thread to its rightful owner. I always carry a siphon (they're cheap) but both times I've tried to use it, the hose is prevented from getting down to the tank of the donor vehicle. I think most modern cars have an anti-siphon feature these days. SO DON'T COUNT ON THAT!
 
So back to what I was asking about. I am wanting to shoot for the moon with this and preserve the passenger floorboards so when I am NOT carrying fuel, they have a proper place to put their foot. Now I am wondering about mounting the bracket BETWEEN the rubber and the metal floorboard. So many ideas.
 
ollicat, you might even come up with a "receiver hitch" type mount that you could attach to the bottom of the pax footpad, then when you were LD'ing solo you could attach the Rotopax (like) mounting plate to that mount, just brainstorming here. But like you I disagree with all the naysayers here. Many, Many LD riders, adventure bike riders, on and off road, travel with extra fuel mounted safely on their cycles, there's no reason it couldn't be done on your Spyder. JT's Spyder store has carried their No Hitch Required (NHR) storage options (one even with a very sturdy cargo box) that I considered for my Iron Butt Rides as emergency reserve fuel storage platform.
https://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=66
NHR Carrier V5 06 Prototype-228x228.jpg
Now Donning my fireproof flame resistant suit...:bbq:
 
I am wanting to shoot for the moon with this and preserve the passenger floorboards so when I am NOT carrying fuel, they have a proper place to put their foot.

That was my thought with my suggestion Ollicat. With a dedicated bracket you would have two bolts per side to remove and reinstall the factory floorboards with two bolts and done. It would literally take 5 minutes with an impact (or even a socket) to switch from one to the other. No matter what you do you are going to be changing bolts to get back your floorboards. My suggestion accomplishes the same thing with no change whatsoever to the factory floorboards and is a very easy/quick changeover. Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think so.
 
My thought would be to remove the rubber while using the mount. Then run a bolt down thru and washer lock washer an nut. Replace rubber and screws as needed for passerger use.
 
"The floorboards are certainly strong enough to hold 3 pounds of fuel on each side." Gasoline weighs roughly 6lbs/gallon, but that still should not be an issue seeing as how most passengers put their full weight on those floorboards when mounting and dismounting. If they can take that, 6 pounds of fuel plus maybe another pound for the container and bracket should not be an issue of strength. I refer to the weight of 1 gallon as that was the smallest choice in your list.

I do think it might be wise to see if the factory bracket from Rotopax could be bolted down on top of the floorboard then there would be no question about holding a gallon of fuel on them. I'm wondering if the two screws you mention are just holding the rubber down and could be used to bolt an adapter down that allows the bracket to be on top of the floorboard.
 
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Though things have improved with the introduction of card readers at pumps in the last couple of years it can still be a long way between open gas stations here, particularly if you travel backroads most of the time. I've done 500km+ at night between open gas stations so carrying extra fuel is a necessity not a 'just in case'.

I really like your idea of using the pillion foot pegs as mounting points. It keeps the weight low and mounted on part of the chassis that's designed to carry weight. I've looked at Rotopax before but wasn't sure with my F3 where I could mount them but off the pillion foot peg mounts would be a possibility.

For reference these have been my fuel carrying solutions so far...
DSC03340.jpg
DSC_3452.jpg
20220215_102658878_iOS.jpg
 
ollicat, you might even come up with a "receiver hitch" type mount that you could attach to the bottom of the pax footpad, then when you were LD'ing solo you could attach the Rotopax (like) mounting plate to that mount, just brainstorming here. But like you I disagree with all the naysayers here. Many, Many LD riders, adventure bike riders, on and off road, travel with extra fuel mounted safely on their cycles, there's no reason it couldn't be done on your Spyder. JT's Spyder store has carried their No Hitch Required (NHR) storage options (one even with a very sturdy cargo box) that I considered for my Iron Butt Rides as emergency reserve fuel storage platform.
https://spyderstore.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=66
View attachment 198399
Now Donning my fireproof flame resistant suit...:bbq:

I really like this option because it keeps the weight low. But I have reservations about the heat from my exhaust hitting the fuel. Also, carrying weight behind me will affect the steering just a bit on curves. Lastly, the dry box they show covers the license plate. I don't think two pounds of fuel will be that tall though.

I think I am going to order that Rotopax L bracket and 1 gallon pack and see what I can do with it. Heck, I could always resell it on eBay if it I can't figure it out.
 
That was my thought with my suggestion Ollicat. With a dedicated bracket you would have two bolts per side to remove and reinstall the factory floorboards with two bolts and done. It would literally take 5 minutes with an impact (or even a socket) to switch from one to the other. No matter what you do you are going to be changing bolts to get back your floorboards. My suggestion accomplishes the same thing with no change whatsoever to the factory floorboards and is a very easy/quick changeover. Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think so.

FrogmanDave - I am liking what you are saying but still not quite understanding fully. I went out to look at how my floorboard is attached and there is a single bolt that goes through the plastic and to a block on the back side. I could easily remove the whole floorboard in just a few minutes. But now I am left with somehow creating a bracket that will hold the Rotopax. That is my hold up point. I am not a metal worker so I almost need a prefab solution after removing the floorboard.
 
FrogmanDave - I am liking what you are saying but still not quite understanding fully. I went out to look at how my floorboard is attached and there is a single bolt that goes through the plastic and to a block on the back side. I could easily remove the whole floorboard in just a few minutes. But now I am left with somehow creating a bracket that will hold the Rotopax. That is my hold up point. I am not a metal worker so I almost need a prefab solution after removing the floorboard.
Ollicat you don't need to be a metal worker.Get some stiff piece of paper and use it to make you a template of what you want. All you really need is an "L" bracket,which you can bend from a flat piece of sheet that you can buy from Home Depot. The retainer from Rotopax comes with a plate you can bolt to your "L" bracket which will fit your Rotopax to the bracket. A new adventure for you.
 
I keep seeing mentions of 2 and 3 pounds of fuel. No doubt the floorboards are capable of carrying that amount of weight, but let's face it, ... that's less than half a gallon of fuel. Is all of this planning and engineering really necessary to carry less than half a gallon?

I have a small 1-gallon can that I bought many years ago when my wife's Suzuki was showing some strange drinking habits. I figured if she ran out of gas, I would go on my bike to a gas station, fill it up, then go back to her and put it in the bike. Several years later, that can has quite a few miles on it, but it has never had a single drop of fuel inside it.

.
 
FrogmanDave - I am liking what you are saying but still not quite understanding fully. I went out to look at how my floorboard is attached and there is a single bolt that goes through the plastic and to a block on the back side. I could easily remove the whole floorboard in just a few minutes. But now I am left with somehow creating a bracket that will hold the Rotopax. That is my hold up point. I am not a metal worker so I almost need a prefab solution after removing the floorboard.

Leave the bracket attached to the bike and remove the floorboard from the bracket. Mount the L-bracket to the floorboard mounting bracket.
 
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