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Exhaust Fumes

Schnauzer

New member
I recently purchased an Aspen Camper. Pulling it with 2015rt. We are getting real bad exhaust fumes when traveling. Stock exhaust.
I posted this on other sites with this type trailer.
But mainly 2 wheelers or trikes. turn down or out exhaust pipes.
I removed the rear cover of the muffler and notice the 2 tips are pointing slightly inward toward the rear tire. Over my years of making exhaust for my rides, I always pointed them out or long enough to clear the rear fender.

So if by chance you have a stock muffler and pass by and peek, let me know which way your tips are pointed.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
 
I recently purchased an Aspen Camper. Pulling it with 2015rt. We are getting real bad exhaust fumes when traveling. Stock exhaust.
I posted this on other sites with this type trailer.
But mainly 2 wheelers or trikes. turn down or out exhaust pipes.
I removed the rear cover of the muffler and notice the 2 tips are pointing slightly inward toward the rear tire. Over my years of making exhaust for my rides, I always pointed them out or long enough to clear the rear fender.

So if by chance you have a stock muffler and pass by and peek, let me know which way your tips are pointed.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Down.:yikes:
 
The Aspen Camper is not very aerodynamic. It is wide and high. With that boxy square front you're building an air dam in front of the camper. There is nowhere for the exhaust gases to go but forward. You would have to experiment but chances are running the exhaust straight down or at 90 degrees to the bike might help a great deal.

Exiting at a lower point and possibly farther back than the stock exhaust might also help.
 
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Down but slightly in towards the tire 2015 RTL

Cruzr Joe

My guess is that down and slightly in puts the exhaust into the slip stream air flow pattern of the Spyder helping the exhaust fumes to exit rearward as quickly as possible. Adding an aerodynamic trailer like the BRP unit doesn't change much. But the Aspen Camper obviously makes a drastic change to the air flow pattern backing the exhaust gases up into the passenger area. There is also a negative pressure wave behind the windshield which may help suck exhaust fumes into the rider area.
 
My guess is that down and slightly in puts the exhaust into the slip stream air flow pattern of the Spyder helping the exhaust fumes to exit rearward as quickly as possible. Adding an aerodynamic trailer like the BRP unit doesn't change much. But the Aspen Camper obviously makes a drastic change to the air flow pattern backing the exhaust gases up into the passenger area. There is also a negative pressure wave behind the windshield which may help suck exhaust fumes into the rider area.
:2thumbs:


With all this said is it with in reason to add length to tongue of trailer?:dontknow: The right gap would provide airflow & may get results you looking for. Or a combination of adding air wings or bug guards/wind deflectors too.:p:thumbup:


Just a redneck thought
 
:2thumbs:


With all this said is it with in reason to add length to tongue of trailer?:dontknow: The right gap would provide airflow & may get results you looking for. Or a combination of adding air wings or bug guards/wind deflectors too.:p:thumbup:


Just a redneck thought

I thought of this but didn't say anything because it might negatively affect handling. Don't know but I'd look into that aspect before making that kind of change.
 
..... I removed the rear cover of the muffler and notice the 2 tips are pointing slightly inward toward the rear tire.......

I've looked at a lot of the stock RT mufflers just recently & I've even pulled/cut a few of them apart - they all come from the factory with the welded on tips pointing 'down & very slightly inwards' like yours (& everybody else's!) :sour:

But I really don't think that's what is causing your issue here, I suspect that nothing you do to the exhaust outlet (short of welding on a 4foot high extension sticking straight UP to let the exhaust out above the rider's height & behind the trunk) will make a heap of difference to how the fumes are 're-circulated' in the turbulent low pressure area that forms in the gap between the Spyder & the trailer. :(

Like others have hinted, You'd probably be much better off looking at how you can change or reduce the turbulence in the airflow that passes over & off the back of the RT & then forms an eddy in the gap between the Spyder & the trailer..... Possibly a bit of a 'down angled scoop' mounted on the top of the trunk could help; or maybe some adjustable wings like the Baker Air Wings aimed to direct more air flow down & past the rear tire, but not angled to blow it out of the gap in front of the trailer?! Or you could try a longer drawbar, that might work; very likely anything you do to streamline the front of the trailer a bit more, even just fitting a flat triangular shade-cloth or horizontal sheet of aluminium shaped to fill the triangular gap between the front of the trailer & the hitch might help!?!

Have Fun!! :thumbup:
 
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What nobody has specifically mentioned is the air flow around the Spyder. I'm not sure how much of the air flow I experience is caused by or influenced by the F4 wide windshield and the Baker Built Air Wings, but the air at the rear of the Spyder flows forward! I have two flags on the trunk and they are almost always flying backwards, in other words they fly forward and flap against the antennas, not rearward like you would expect them to. The air flow is so strong that before I hung a mud flap off the rear fender the rooster tail from water on the road would spatter the back of my helmet, and sometimes come all the way forward to the windshield.

The trailer unquestionably is influencing the air flow around your Spyder causing the air currents to pick up the exhaust stream and carry it forward. You'll just have to figure out some sort of wind deflectors to change the air flow so that it doesn't pick up the exhaust stream.
 
I had the same thing happen to me with the my Goldwing pulling my High and Dry camper. I ended up putting a spoiler on the tongue of the trailer to increase the speed of the air going over the trailer (Positive Pressure) to stop the bad air from circulating back to the wing. The huge windshield I had on the wing created a kind of negative pressure area around the cockpit which sucked the exhaust back to the wing. So you need to create a positive pressure area greater than the negative pressure area...

Hope this helps

2faston3
 
I've looked at a lot of the stock RT mufflers just recently & I've even pulled/cut a few of them apart - they all come from the factory with the welded on tips pointing 'down & very slightly inwards' like yours (& everybody else's!) :sour:

But I really don't think that's what is causing your issue here, I suspect that nothing you do to the exhaust outlet (short of welding on a 4foot high extension sticking straight UP to let the exhaust out above the rider's height & behind the trunk) will make a heap of difference to how the fumes are 're-circulated' in the turbulent low pressure area that forms in the gap between the Spyder & the trailer. :(

Like others have hinted, You'd probably be much better off looking at how you can change or reduce the turbulence in the airflow that passes over & off the back of the RT & then forms an eddy in the gap between the Spyder & the trailer..... Possibly a bit of a 'down angled scoop' mounted on the top of the trunk could help; or maybe some adjustable wings like the Baker Air Wings aimed to direct more air flow down & past the rear tire, but not angled to blow it out of the gap in front of the trailer?! Or you could try a longer drawbar, that might work; very likely anything you do to streamline the front of the trailer a bit more, even just fitting a flat triangular shade-cloth or horizontal sheet of aluminium shaped to fill the triangular gap between the front of the trailer & the hitch might help!?!

Have Fun!! :thumbup:
Hmmm Stacks with rain clappers.:shocked:.
 
Which Aspen model did you buy? I'm getting ready to order one, and can't decide on which model. Was considering the classic, but wondering if the sentry would be the better choice.. And do you have electric brakes.
 
Which Aspen model did you buy? I'm getting ready to order one, and can't decide on which model. Was considering the classic, but wondering if the sentry would be the better choice.. And do you have electric brakes.


I have the classic , only 6" difference in total length and width. Before going with brakes do some extensive research. From what I'm understanding it is not in the best interest to run brakes on the torsion axle they use. I received the original Aspen setup manual. On the last page was a product bulletin #260..11/30/2000

Dexter Axle does not recommend the use of brakes on small touring trailers pulled with motorcycles.
proper tuning of these brakes can be very difficult, and for this reason we strongly recommend this practice be discontinued.

A secondary issue is spontaneous and unexpected actuation of the brakes. This occurs when the Torflex Axle is not fully loaded. this issues occurs when the trailer encounters large bumps...

They go into scientific detail about magnet rotation and other.
Just do research,,research..

What I did find is the tongue is bolted to the frame and braces. I will be removing it tomorrow and adding a stiffer and longer tongue. I was surprised at the lighwieght material 2mm thickness of the tongue.

good luck and enjoy, I know we are..
 
I had the same thing happen to me with the my Goldwing pulling my High and Dry camper. I ended up putting a spoiler on the tongue of the trailer to increase the speed of the air going over the trailer (Positive Pressure) to stop the bad air from circulating back to the wing. The huge windshield I had on the wing created a kind of negative pressure area around the cockpit which sucked the exhaust back to the wing. So you need to create a positive pressure area greater than the negative pressure area...

Hope this helps

2faston3

I removed the icechest and folded the adjustable BRP vent wings in. it did make a difference but did on an occasion smell fumes.
 
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I have a Time Out Camper with their optional factory cooler spoiler and have no issues with fumes....Look on their Website and maybe you can retrofit one on your camper.:2thumbs:
 

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I have the classic , only 6" difference in total length and width. Before going with brakes do some extensive research. From what I'm understanding it is not in the best interest to run brakes on the torsion axle they use. I received the original Aspen setup manual. On the last page was a product bulletin #260..11/30/2000

Dexter Axle does not recommend the use of brakes on small touring trailers pulled with motorcycles.
proper tuning of these brakes can be very difficult, and for this reason we strongly recommend this practice be discontinued.

A secondary issue is spontaneous and unexpected actuation of the brakes. This occurs when the Torflex Axle is not fully loaded. this issues occurs when the trailer encounters large bumps...

They go into scientific detail about magnet rotation and other.
Just do research,,research..

What I did find is the tongue is bolted to the frame and braces. I will be removing it tomorrow and adding a stiffer and longer tongue. I was surprised at the lighwieght material 2mm thickness of the tongue.

good luck and enjoy, I know we are..

The main thrust of this warning not to use brakes is directed at 2 wheeled motorcycles. Though you would still need to keep the braking at a reasonable level. Having trailer brakes with the Spyder, especially riding 2 up, would be much less of an issue.

As for the torsion suspension aspect. That confuses me. Why would magnetic brakes apply spontaneously because of the suspension used? That would be a negative no matter what kind of tow vehicle you used. That doesn't make sense to me.
 
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