Evap cannister

[ARtraveler]

Ok people let's share your wisdom.

My check engine light came on and after a couple of tries my dealer finally figured it out. My evaporation canister weighed too much which I guess meant it needed to replaced. Some of you probably know by now that I am not a mechanic. I don't even pretend to know anything about mechanical things. Anyway, my dealer is in the process of replacing the canister and they call me to tell me it won't be covered under my warranty. Let me preface that by saying that in Florida BRP is not allowed to sell their extended warranty so I was forced to buy an extended warranty from a company called Interstate National Dealer Services.

Oh we all know what service means right? Back in the days of old, a farmer would take his cows down the road to be "serviced" by the bull. Get it? Yeah that's about how I'm feeling right now too.

But I digress. So 445 dollars later I get my bike back. I've called and emailed BRP and it seems that this is covered by their EPA warranty. Problem is that the EPA warranty is only good for five years or 18,000 miles. Really? Who could own one of these Spyders and do less than 4.000 miles a year. My 2011 RT has 39,000 very happy miles on it. So it seems at the moment I'm stuck. Thoughts? Ideas?

PM sent.

 

[TuckMiddle]

I thought the EPA stuff was all 5 years. I think I will look that up, if I can remember to look for the note in my phone .....
The canisterectemy solved my lingering problem
Tuck

 

[ulflyer]

canisterectomy done today

After reading all that I could find about it I decided to do mine even though I haven't had any problem. Call it preventive maintenance. The only pain in the butt is taking all the right side tupperware off. Once that was done, 4 ft of 1/4 fuel hose connected to the hose coming from the gas tank, after removing it from the canister, and a bolt put in the end of the purge valve hose after removing it also from the canister. I ran the long hose back along the frame towards the rear making sure it wasn't on or near any of the hot stuff. This took maybe 15 min, but the tupperware a bit longer........and as usual I ended up with one screw left over! Oh well...........pps:

If you can take your tupperware off, the rest is a no-brainer and requires no mechanical skill. Look at the diagram above and you can see the two hoses in question.

 

[bhfromme]

What else did they do? I hope a lot of things. Otherwise, you have been massively ripped. I just had the canister replaced on my 2011 RT. The canister sells for $66.99 full price. My dealer charged $60 labor (0.75 hours) so the total was $126.99, ignoring any discounts. The BRP flat rate manual shows only 0.5 hours to replace the canister on an RT but I'm not gonna quibble over that. The point is, if all they did on your bike was the canister, you should have been out the door for $130 or less.

They charged 125 for the part and 2.5 hours of labor. I'm not sure it's reasonable and customary to charge for diagnostic work that was a good chunk of the labor.

I ask this of everyone. Would your dealer charge you for diagnosing the problem?

 

[DrewNJ]

I ask this of everyone. Would your dealer charge you for diagnosing the problem?

The dealer here charges an hour labor ($95 IIRC) to diagnose. However, they apply that hour toward the labor for the repair if they do the work.

I don't know about removing/replacing the tupperware on the RT but changing out the canister on an RS takes about 15 minutes....no joke.

I'd expect to pay an hour labor ($95) plus whatever the part cost ($67 or so) for having the dealer replace the canister.

 

[bhfromme]

The dealer here charges an hour labor ($95 IIRC) to diagnose. However, they apply that hour toward the labor for the repair if they do the work.

I don't know about removing/replacing the tupperware on the RT but changing out the canister on an RS takes about 15 minutes....no joke.

I'd expect to pay an hour labor ($95) plus whatever the part cost ($67 or so) for having the dealer replace the canister.

What I didn't mention in my first post is that the canister needed to be replaced because of a defective purge valve.I paid 74 for the canister, 50 for the purge valve and 20 for new spark plugs. But the 2.5 hours of labor was the killer.

Not trying to nickel dime anyone but they charged me an hour for diagnosing the problem then another 1.5 hours to do the repair. Is that reasonable? Maybe I should have squawked but I value my relationship with them so I just paid it and kept my mouth shut.

Oh Scotty, In your opinion is it safe to run the Spyder with no evap canister?

 

[HuckFin]

I posted a solution a long time ago that both solved the problem and was easily reversible to comply with anyone looking at your Spyder with thoughts about DENYING your WARRANTY. .....You put an automotive plastic " T " on the line that went to the cannister then put an extension line straight down away from anything hot and this prevents any gas overflow from reaching the cannister. For the upright part of the " T " you then put in a small piece of tube and connected that to the orig. fitting on the cannister.........So you still have fume scavenging with the cannister but it is IMPOSSIBLE to get any FUEL/GAS into the cannister because of the " T "..........NOTE THE " T " HAS TO BE BELOW THE BOTTOM OF THE CANNISTER FOR THIS TO WORK......It's very easy to remove for inspection and just a couple of $'s..........I have done this to both my Spyders and No problems with smell or anything else in the past 20,000 + miles ...Mike :thumbup:

Thanks much. Your solution is the best idea I've heard so far.

 

[jcthorne]

My gas fumes when sitting in traffic have gotten ridiculous. Dealer says nothing wrong. BS

Canister is being removed and pipes wrapped along with a converterectomy over the holidays or next few weekends. Unfortunate that I have to take matters in my own hands but if BRP will not or cannot fix it, I will so I can ride it. The weather is cool so its not hot weather, just exhaust heat on the underside of the tank. Poor design.

 

[Bob Denman]

No help to you, but they DID move things around on the 2014s.
Good luck on your project; please let us know how it turns out! :thumbup:

 

[Jeriatric]

No help to you, but they DID move things around on the 2014s. View attachment 80808
Good luck on your project; please let us know how it turns out! :thumbup:

Somethings missing in this picture. Guess what? :doorag:

 

[Questions]

Is anyone that are carefully filling their Spyder getting over 100 + miles to the tank ? I have a 2013 RT LTD and I'm getting about 22 miles a gallon. Anyone getting any better than this and if so HOW ?

 

[SPYD3R]

LINK

for those of you who are interested in more discussion on the CANISTER BYPASS, here is a link:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?13298-Canisterectomy&highlight=cannisterectomy

 

[NancysToy]

Is anyone that are carefully filling their Spyder getting over 100 + miles to the tank ? I have a 2013 RT LTD and I'm getting about 22 miles a gallon. Anyone getting any better than this and if so HOW ?

Most of us do. If you are getting only 22 mpg you likely have something wrong. For an unmodified Spyder, typical mileage is 27-32. Plug wires are the first thing I would suspect, followed by a faulty purge valve. Beyond that it gets complicated...requiring compression tests and some serious troubleshooting/experimenting to pin down the cause. BRP considers anything from something like 18 mpg and up to be "normal", so you won't get any free help from your dealer.

 

[jaherbst]

The dealer here charges an hour labor ($95 IIRC) to diagnose. However, they apply that hour toward the labor for the repair if they do the work.

I don't know about removing/replacing the tupperware on the RT but changing out the canister on an RS takes about 15 minutes....no joke.

I'd expect to pay an hour labor ($95) plus whatever the part cost ($67 or so) for having the dealer replace the canister.

Your lucky, Ride Now Sports which is a monopoly in Arizona and the only BRP dealer in Tucson Az charges $130 per hour.

Jack

 

[stewartj239]

for those of you who are interested in more discussion on the CANISTER BYPASS, here is a link:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?13298-Canisterectomy&highlight=cannisterectomy

Thanks for this link. I currently have my Spyder torn apart and was looking for the best way to eliminate this. If I have any questions, I'll post them to the linked thread.

 

[Bob Denman]

Somethings missing in this picture. Guess what? :doorag:

Okay; I'll bite... :dontknow:

:shocked: What?

 

[SPYD3R]

hey Mike....

I posted a solution a long time ago that both solved the problem and was easily reversible to comply with anyone looking at your Spyder with thoughts about DENYING your WARRANTY. .....You put an automotive plastic " T " on the line that went to the cannister then put an extension line straight down away from anything hot and this prevents any gas overflow from reaching the cannister. For the upright part of the " T " you then put in a small piece of tube and connected that to the orig. fitting on the cannister.........So you still have fume scavenging with the cannister but it is IMPOSSIBLE to get any FUEL/GAS into the cannister because of the " T "..........NOTE THE " T " HAS TO BE BELOW THE BOTTOM OF THE CANNISTER FOR THIS TO WORK......It's very easy to remove for inspection and just a couple of $'s..........I have done this to both my Spyders and No problems with smell or anything else in the past 20,000 + miles ...Mike :thumbup:

is this what you meant by having the "T" placed below the Cannister...???

thx in advance...
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

 

[Bob Denman]

:2thumbs: Very nice diagram that makes it easy to understand! :clap:
Thanks!

 

[SPYD3R]

:2thumbs: Very nice diagram that makes it easy to understand! :clap:
Thanks!

BUT.... is this the correct 'fix'...? need 2 hear back from Mr. Blue (Mike)....
hurry Mike... Tuperware is off, waiting on your reply.... opcorn:
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R

 

[stewartj239]

is this what you meant BY having the "T" placed below the Cannister...???

I just did this yesterday and completely removed the canister based on the link you previously provided. Why not go that route rather than leaving the canister in place using the "T" connector?