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Error Codes have showed up!

B

Bob Denman

New member
:yikes: This morning, as I started my RT up, it wasn't idling quite right... It was bouncing between 1700 and 2000rpm and the twist grip just didn't feel connected to the system. I shut it down and re-started it and it ran fine.

I checked for error codes and got:
P1614
P0000

What do these suckers mean?????????
 
Throttle body. Chances are the plates got stuck. If you can keep it running long enough to heat things up it will break free.
 
Thanks Lamont. I did get it up and running, although I didn't get it fully up to temperature in the short trip this morning.
Is this one that I should be calling the dealer about??:shocked:
 
Yes, P1614 is one of the listed codes on the service bulletin for throttle body replacement. That was the same code I pulled and they replaced my throttle body because of it. Once you pull this code the update is no longer applicable until the throttle body has been replaced.
 
Bob,
I had exactly the same code P1614, felt like it was only running on one cylinder at idle took into my dealer and they called BRP which said to replace the throttle body the dealer had a new RT-S that they were able to take the throttle body off for my bike,seems that the throttle body's are in real short supply.BRP did authorize the dealer ( Ray's Sport & Cycle, Grand Rapids Mn. ) the time to remove the throttle body from the new RT-S. Thanks BRP
 
Thanks for the information guys! I called my local dealer (who is without power still!) and they said to bring it down at the earliest convenient moment that pops up... They mentioned to me that "1614" is a code for the throttle body... I, of course didn't tell them what I already knew...
 
They have changed the coating on the bushing on the shaft on the new throttle body and that has fixed the problem I guess. In 36,000 miles I've only had this happen twice. For me it was riding all day in the heat and the next day taking off when it was cold. My guess is the expansion and contraction of the two metals cause the tolerance to change just enough to lock up the shaft and seeing this is fly by wire you can't over ride it by just twisting the throttle. If you had cables you could.
 
Sounds like what i had on mine last week; acted like battery, but when I finally got it started it showed limp mode...got it to dealer and it ran fine. However the computer showed the problem and they replaced the throttle body. Mine had had the 2011-7 throttle body update previously but this didn't keep it from going bad. Kudo's to Honda Winston-Salem NC for quick diagnosis and getting it back on the road in about 3 days. Forgot to ask them how they found the part that quickly.
 
"UL"
Did you know that you can access any stored error codes yourself? lamont posted a video showing exactly how to get them... REAL easy! Even I managed it! :thumbup:
1.get your left thumb across the mode and set buttons and hold them in...
2. push in on the turnsignal button (as if you were cancelling a signal)

The main screen will show anything that's been stored.
Push mode when you want to get back to your normal screens...
 
Bob Denman said:
"UL"
Did you know that you can access any stored error codes yourself? lamont posted a video showing exactly how to get them... REAL easy! Even I managed it! :thumbup:
1.get your left thumb across the mode and set buttons and hold them in...
2. push in on the turnsignal button (as if you were cancelling a signal)

The main screen will show anything that's been stored.
Push mode when you want to get back to your normal screens...
Click to expand...
''

Is this with the RT running or just key on?
 
Bob Denman said:
"UL"
Did you know that you can access any stored error codes yourself? lamont posted a video showing exactly how to get them... REAL easy! Even I managed it! :thumbup:
1.get your left thumb across the mode and set buttons and hold them in...
2. push in on the turnsignal button (as if you were cancelling a signal)

The main screen will show anything that's been stored.
Push mode when you want to get back to your normal screens...
Click to expand...
Any codes that appear during this procedure are not stored codes, they are the active codes. The only access to the stored codes is via BUDS.
 
Sorry... wrong terminology. :opps:
Thanks for pulling the video up Lamont. :thumbup:
Not that it helps me out; but can you get the codes from an RS? I don't think that they have as many buttons as us RT jockeys do! ;)
 
Bob Denman said:
Sorry... wrong terminology. :opps:
Thanks for pulling the video up Lamont. :thumbup:
Not that it helps me out; but can you get the codes from an RS? I don't think that they have as many buttons as us RT jockeys do! ;)
Click to expand...
Yes, the RS uses different buttons and a different procedure.
 
Bob Denman said:
:yikes: This morning, as I started my RT up, it wasn't idling quite right... It was bouncing between 1700 and 2000rpm and the twist grip just didn't feel connected to the system. I shut it down and re-started it and it ran fine.

I checked for error codes and got:
P1614
P0000

What do these suckers mean?????????
Click to expand...

Does the throttle body replacement apply to 2010 Rt , I thought that it applies to just 2011 Rt models? :dontknow:
 
Well I'm sure hoping that it'll apply to my 2010... :shocked:
My dealer is still without power, so it's looking as if the end of next week I'll run it down to them.
 
Bob Denman said:
Well I'm sure hoping that it'll apply to my 2010... :shocked:
My dealer is still without power, so it's looking as if the end of next week I'll run it down to them.
Click to expand...

Bob, I know you will let everyone know when you find out. When I had my 2011-7 done the tech seemed to think it was for the 2011 RT only....?? I did not inquire further as he was doing -8 and -9 and I did not want to get him off the subject at hand.

:spyder2:

 
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