Error Code C1282 on 2012 RSS SE5 + Fuel issues/no start?

[Freddy]

I think it's already been asked - but do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds with key ON before starting? Probly not - so that's some checking for the reason ahead of you.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Well, at least that's narrowing it down. Yeah, he mentioned he could hear the fuel pump in an earlier post, although that doesn't mean it's pumping anything.

Hey Phil. You got gas in the tank????? Or something instead of gas in the tank???

Otherwise, before you tear that fuel pump out of there, giving it a new fuel filter will be an easier possibility to eliminate. It's the silver looking cylinder there by the charcoal canister on the right hand side. Besides the fuel pump, the 998 also has a fuel pressure regulator up on the throttle body left hand side. It's not really serviceable, About the only thing you can do is ensure the the little vent filter at the top isn't plugged or obstructed. If it's not the filter, then a tech would perform a fuel pressure test first, to try to narrow down whether it's the pump or regulator.

 

[PhilY]

Well, at least that's narrowing it down. Yeah, he mentioned he could hear the fuel pump in an earlier post, although that doesn't mean it's pumping anything.

Hey Phil. You got gas in the tank????? Or something instead of gas in the tank???

Otherwise, before you tear that fuel pump out of there, giving it a new fuel filter will be an easier possibility to eliminate. It's the silver looking cylinder there by the charcoal canister on the right hand side. Besides the fuel pump, the 998 also has a fuel pressure regulator up on the throttle body left hand side. It's not really serviceable, About the only thing you can do is ensure the the little vent filter at the top isn't plugged or obstructed. If it's not the filter, then a tech would perform a fuel pressure test first, to try to narrow down whether it's the pump or regulator.

Thanks, Doug. Wish I could change the title of this thread for the possible future reference of others.

Yes, I hear the fuel pump humming for a few seconds after turning on the key. New fuel filter on the way. My Spyder had only 800 miles on it (2012) when I bought it a couple of years ago so I changed all the fluids but not the fuel filter. Here's hoping!

 

[Freddy]

Only done 800 miles eh??? While you have the fuel filter off, turn key on momentarily to see what come out. Many cars take a 5/16" metal fuel filter with barb fittings - that's what I use; larger but fits in there well.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thanks, Doug. Wish I could change the title of this thread for the possible future reference of others........

Is the Title now any better? :dontknow: Drop me a PM if you want to discuss alternatives :thumbup:

 

[rustin921]

I had the code on my '12. It ended up being a back brakes were worn down. After a Buds clear and a new rear brakes, all good.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Only done 800 miles eh??? While you have the fuel filter off, turn key on momentarily to see what come out. Many cars take a 5/16" metal fuel filter with barb fittings - that's what I use; larger but fits in there well.

Yeah Freddy, I was thinking along those same lines. So, Phil, as long as you have the fuel lines disconnected, and can do it safely, even by adding another length of fuel hose temporarily, turn on the key with the kill switch in ON, and see if the fuel pump puts out. Keep in mind that the nominal fuel pressure is 75#...it won't be a super large flow rate but it is capable of high pressure. You might consider running a sample into a glass container to ensure it is gas and not water. If the new fuel filter solves this problem, I would cut the old one open and inspect the filter inside to see what's in there. Curiosity. Good luck.

 

[PhilY]

Yeah Freddy, I was thinking along those same lines. So, Phil, as long as you have the fuel lines disconnected, and can do it safely, even by adding another length of fuel hose temporarily, turn on the key with the kill switch in ON, and see if the fuel pump puts out. Keep in mind that the nominal fuel pressure is 75#...it won't be a super large flow rate but it is capable of high pressure. You might consider running a sample into a glass container to ensure it is gas and not water. If the new fuel filter solves this problem, I would cut the old one open and inspect the filter inside to see what's in there. Curiosity. Good luck.

Awaiting new filter--went with automotive equivalent as suggested at 1/4 the price of an OEM. Plan to check fuel pump through old filter and then run some gas out w/o filter. 75# is fairly high, near impossible to stop with thumb!

I thought about cutting open the old filter but a Dremel produces sparks! Maybe I'll just pry it open?

Thanks again for all the suggestions!!

 

[PhilY]

I had the code on my '12. It ended up being a back brakes were worn down. After a Buds clear and a new rear brakes, all good.

Have less than 3K miles on brakes and lots of meat on the pads. No dealer here so BUDS is not immediately available. I can live with the warning as brakes work just fine and all rotors show wear marks from being engaged.

 

[Freddy]

Use a hacksaw to cut the filter open.

 

[PhilY]

Yeah Freddy, I was thinking along those same lines. So, Phil, as long as you have the fuel lines disconnected, and can do it safely, even by adding another length of fuel hose temporarily, turn on the key with the kill switch in ON, and see if the fuel pump puts out. Keep in mind that the nominal fuel pressure is 75#...it won't be a super large flow rate but it is capable of high pressure. You might consider running a sample into a glass container to ensure it is gas and not water. If the new fuel filter solves this problem, I would cut the old one open and inspect the filter inside to see what's in there. Curiosity. Good luck.

So, Doug. Finally received the filter and it's marked "for carbureted applications only . . . not for fuel injection" so back it goes.

@Freddy, do you have brand/model of the one you use?

Anyway, I took off the connection after the filter, turned on the ignition and . . . NOTHING. Fuel pump isn't buzzing when I turn on the ignition anymore! Am I correct in assuming that I need a new fuel pump assembly ($$$)?

 

[larryd]

If you do need a new fuel pump you can get them here for under $100.00 and life time guarantee...

Quantum Fuel Systems <[email protected]>

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Anyway, I took off the connection after the filter, turned on the ignition and . . . NOTHING. Fuel pump isn't buzzing when I turn on the ignition anymore! Am I correct in assuming that I need a new fuel pump assembly ($$$)?

Fuel pump runs with ignition switch in ON plus kill switch in RUN position. So, just check that you didn’t flip the kill switch to STOP sometime in the last few days. And make sure that fuse F5 didn’t blow for some reason with all of the stuff you’ve been doing. Otherwise, strange that it was running just a couple days ago, was running throughout this whole saga, and suddenly not now. So, check those things first.

 

[PhilY]

Fuel pump runs with ignition switch in ON plus kill switch in RUN position. So, just check that you didn’t flip the kill switch to STOP sometime in the last few days. And make sure that fuse F5 didn’t blow for some reason with all of the stuff you’ve been doing. Otherwise, strange that it was running just a couple days ago, was running throughout this whole saga, and suddenly not now. So, check those things first.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll go through them then start troubleshooting the fuel pump based upon a manual I have on CD. Hopefully, that'll tell me if the pump is bad.

 

[PhilY]

if you do need a new fuel pump you can get them here for under $100.00 and life time guarantee...

Quantum fuel systems <[email protected]>

Awesome!! Thank you!!!

 

[Freddy]

Fram - G6400; WIX - 33310 or 33023; Ryco - Z200

Was the one you got plastic?

Getting the fuel pump out is something of a mission.

 

[PhilY]

Fram - G6400; WIX - 33310 or 33023; Ryco - Z200

Was the one you got plastic?

Getting the fuel pump out is something of a mission.

No, it's metal but marked "for carbureted apps only." I'd rather not take a chance. Will get one of those you mentioned above. THANKS!

 

[PhilY]

OK, guys, sorry been busy for a while. So, before I started troubleshooting, I insured fuse #5 was good. Confirmed that starter kicks in since starter solenoid on same fuse.

I haven't tried jumping the fuel pump directly to the battery as I cannot access the terminal pins.

I started troubleshooting and it failed the fuel pump circuit test and the fuel pump power circuit voltage test--nada.

So I have an idea of the problem, unfortunately no solutions. Any ideas?

 

[Freddy]

Did you cut the fuel filter open as suggested? Its contents may give an indication of what's inside the pump inside the tank before you take the tank out to access the pump.

 

[PhilY]

All's well that ends well. Learned a few things: go with easiest possible cause first. In this case it was a plugged fuel line, believe it or not! Filter was good. I started troubleshooting the fuel pump electrics and got several false issues. Learned lots of things. like the fuel pump does not make any sound unless it's under pressure.

I still have the brake failure warning but I can live with that; so long as I have good brakes/pressure in the system, I'll just ignore it.

CANNOT THANK ENOUGH ALL WHO PROVIDED ASSISTANCE ALONG THE WAY. COULDN'T HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU!

Aloha!