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enclosed trailer
- Thread starter de390sac
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kyspyder
New member
Enclosed Trailer
This is 1 that I use and like very much!View attachment 61495View attachment 61496View attachment 61497View attachment 61498
www.ironhorsetrailers.com
KYSPYDER
This is 1 that I use and like very much!View attachment 61495View attachment 61496View attachment 61497View attachment 61498
www.ironhorsetrailers.com
KYSPYDER
bbodah
New member
Spydr in KS
New member
Worthington in PA has a 6-4 wide that works nice for an RS or ST. Probably not wide enough at the rear door for an RT
ingramsail
Member
trailer
A 6x14 box will hold a :spyder2:Rt with 3in. on each side of the door, just ckeck that the rear gate wires mounted on the rear door do not get in the way.
A 6x14 box will hold a :spyder2:Rt with 3in. on each side of the door, just ckeck that the rear gate wires mounted on the rear door do not get in the way.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
All trailers are not the same. Most manufacturers use the nominal (approximate) width, usually measured between the backing plates...or sometimes at the tire centerline. The door opening can be considerably smaller. An RT needs 62" and an RS needs 60"...plus room to clear and maneuver. Be sure and measure the clear opening yourself before you buy. Torsion cables can narrow the clear width several inches from the actual door width...which is less than the trailer width...which is less than the advertised width. Get the picture?
I like our R&R all aluminum, extra tall, 7'x12'deluxe v-nose, but your tastes and needs may vary. Shop around, you'll be surprised at the variety in measurements, options, features, workmanship, and prices.
I like our R&R all aluminum, extra tall, 7'x12'deluxe v-nose, but your tastes and needs may vary. Shop around, you'll be surprised at the variety in measurements, options, features, workmanship, and prices.
Bob Denman
New member
:agree: The amount of opening at the rear of the trailer is what you need to focus on.
Well... that; plus you should check to make sure that the ramp isn't so steep as to cause loading and unloading problems... :thumbup:
Dragonrider
New member
You can buy a nice 7x12x6.5, single axel - with electric brakes, ramp, lights, spare, RV door, insulated, and equipped with tie-downs for $3,500 or less (NEW). the 6.5 height gives you room to stand up, and assures a good ramp angle for the Spyder.
HOWEVER, no matter how hard I try, I can't figure out how to get my RT in my Commander…..
HOWEVER, no matter how hard I try, I can't figure out how to get my RT in my Commander…..
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Illinois Boy
New member
One thing to think about is having a vehicle powerful enough to tow the trailer you buy.
Check your vehicle's tongue-weight capacity, and tow-capacity.
If you match these stats of the trailer (don't forget the weight of the Spyder in it) to the maximum of your vehicle can handle, you will have a difficult time hauling the trailer on the varying terrain you will find across the country. You need spare towing capacity... trust me. Having a vehicle that is at its limit towing a trailer is a workout on a long trip, and doesn't exactly treat your vehicle with the best of care.
While you'll hear all kinds of testimony of people that have used all kinds of cars, SUV's, and trucks to tow their trailers without problems -- trust me... you want to have the power to tow the trailer you buy.
Obviously, the bigger, heavier, and more "boxy" the trailer is, the more power you'll need to comfortably tow it.
Just a suggestion to think about from someone that has trailered things for over 45 years...
Check your vehicle's tongue-weight capacity, and tow-capacity.
If you match these stats of the trailer (don't forget the weight of the Spyder in it) to the maximum of your vehicle can handle, you will have a difficult time hauling the trailer on the varying terrain you will find across the country. You need spare towing capacity... trust me. Having a vehicle that is at its limit towing a trailer is a workout on a long trip, and doesn't exactly treat your vehicle with the best of care.
While you'll hear all kinds of testimony of people that have used all kinds of cars, SUV's, and trucks to tow their trailers without problems -- trust me... you want to have the power to tow the trailer you buy.
Obviously, the bigger, heavier, and more "boxy" the trailer is, the more power you'll need to comfortably tow it.
Just a suggestion to think about from someone that has trailered things for over 45 years...
A
arntufun
Guest
I highly doubt I ever EVER EVER have to worry about towing capacity !!!!!! nojoke
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Bob Denman
New member
Seriously though... Ilinois Boy brings up a good point that shouldn't be forgotten! :thumbup:
However...
TheSpyders weigh abouy a half-ton (Rounding up a bit!)
A trailer that's big enough to do the job without be silly... maybe a ton.
Most half-ton pickups can haul that load even without a towing package added to the original billof lading.
However...
TheSpyders weigh abouy a half-ton (Rounding up a bit!)
A trailer that's big enough to do the job without be silly... maybe a ton.
Most half-ton pickups can haul that load even without a towing package added to the original billof lading.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I have to side with the Illinois vote on this one. Unless you have a fifth wheel, you are pushing things to tow a GTWR of more than 1/2 to 2/3 of your vehicle's rated towing capacity. In my opinion, the trailer weight should not exceed that of the tow vehicle without a fifth wheel. I had a spectacular crash by breaking that rule once, when a truck sideswiped the trailer I was towing, and it took over when it started to sway, because it outweighed the half-ton pickup. Better safe than sorry. I also highly recommend trailer brakes. They are required, even for smaller single-axled trailers, in many mountain states. In some states any trailers with a GTWR over 1,000 pounds need brakes. JMHO
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