GrandPubah916
New member
I currently have no idea what type to get or where to get it.
...... Wish I could just go out and buy the bolt and fix it myself.
Remove yours, measure length, inspect if either minimal thread contact or bottoming.
Then get longer (105 mm?) or shorter (95mm?) from M8-1.25x100 (8mm - 1.25 pitch x 100 mm) grade 8.8
Probably not at Home Deport or Lowes, but very likely at Ace or TrueValue or autoparts
You have to realize that many Ryker riders are not very mechanically inclined. Doing this task may frighten them to high Haven. Some have never changed their oil (correctly), or even had greasy knuckles. They may want to invite a friend or neighbor along that knows how to read his torque wrench.
Yes, and a major benefit of a forum for those who are mechanically inclined.
My post #62 response was in answer to post #59: "Wish I could just go out and by the bolt and fix it myself."
To fulfill that wish, the bolt can be removed, length measured, then inspected if either minimal thread contact or bottoming.
If a grade 8.8, 8 mm - 1.25 pitch, 95 or 105 mm length not available at Ace or TrueValue, order from McMaster-Carr.
McMaster part number 91280A174 is "Medium-Strength Class 8.8 Steel Hex Head Screw, Zinc-Plated, M8 x 1.25 mm Thread Size, 95 mm Long"
Package of 10 for $8.85
If longer is needed, lengths available jump from 100 mm to 110 mm, not finding a 105 mm(checked Grainger, also)
If shorter is the answer, then your suggestion of a washer/spacer in post 4 of this thread is an alternative to a shorter bolt
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?132391-Ryker-handle-bars-loose-knocking
Meanwhile, the question is still not confirmed if the replacement required is shorter or longer.
If 100 mm bolts were too short, so that only a thread or two engaged, then those threads could have stripped, rather than the full cross-section of the bolt sheared.
If only 110 mm are available, other than from BRP, and 105 mm is ideal, then a spacer or washer(s) under the head would work well and avoid parking for a month or two.
Yes, and a major benefit of a forum for those who are mechanically inclined.
My post #62 response was in answer to post #59: "Wish I could just go out and by the bolt and fix it myself."
To fulfill that wish, the bolt can be removed, length measured, then inspected if either minimal thread contact or bottoming.
If a grade 8.8, 8 mm - 1.25 pitch, 95 or 105 mm length not available at Ace or TrueValue, order from McMaster-Carr.
McMaster part number 91280A174 is "Medium-Strength Class 8.8 Steel Hex Head Screw, Zinc-Plated, M8 x 1.25 mm Thread Size, 95 mm Long"
Package of 10 for $8.85
If longer is needed, lengths available jump from 100 mm to 110 mm, not finding a 105 mm(checked Grainger, also)
If shorter is the answer, then your suggestion of a washer/spacer in post 4 of this thread is an alternative to a shorter bolt
https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?132391-Ryker-handle-bars-loose-knocking
Meanwhile, the question is still not confirmed if the replacement required is shorter or longer.
If 100 mm bolts were too short, so that only a thread or two engaged, then those threads could have stripped, rather than the full cross-section of the bolt sheared.
If only 110 mm are available, other than from BRP, and 105 mm is ideal, then a spacer or washer(s) under the head would work well and avoid parking for a month or two.
I removed mine on a 2020 model and blew and cleaned out the hole. Took some calipers and mine read 105mm depth. My bolt is 100mm long and I also added a washer to mine. I'm thinking of a 10.9 strength bolt and do away with the 8.8. I would not go no longer than 100 mm .
David
Is it a blind hole or does something mount up against the other end? I'm asking because blind holes are typically not threaded all the way to the end unless they used a flat bottom tap.
I took my 2022 Ryker Sport to Andres Powersports in Montrose, PA today. They replaced my steering stem bolt under recall in about 35 minutes. These folks were very nice to me even though I purchased the Ryker elsewhere. They also can do laser alignments so I'll take mine up in the future to see if they can correct the "Jitterness" on the hiway. On smooth roads, its not too bad handeling but on rough roads (We have too many here in NEPA) it beats me up riding. I came from riding Kawasaki's and lastly, a Suzuki Burgman 400 cc scooter.
I think we’re making a mountain out of a mole hill. I bought a new rally on June 30, 2022. This was two weeks before the recall. I was on a long-distance trip on my previous ryker and ran into mechanical difficulties 1000 miles from home. To get the replacement part necessary for the fix, it was going to take a week and I did not have a week to sit during my vacation. So, I traded my 2019 for a 2022 - both Rallys.
So, I traded on the spot and continued on my trip. Since then I have 4500 miles on this new Ryker. No issues whatsoever. I have an appointment for the recall for this coming Friday but because I did not want to park the bike, I simply went to my neighborhood Ace Hardware store and purchased an 8x100 Hex flange head bolt and replaced the suspect Bolt and torqued to 18 pounds. No big deal.
Now you may want to sit down if you’re not already sitting - The cost of the replacement bolt was $.24. They considered general hardware and price all individual pieces cheap.
I have to agree, I think BRP is just trying to get ahead of a potential problem and playing it safe.
Was the bolt you pulled steel or aluminum?
Let me ask you guys a quick question. Would you agree that the 2022 Can-Am Ryker rally and the 2021 Can-Am Ryker rally, with the exception of cosmetics, are exactly the same bike?
Keith