Elusive Battery Terminals.

[CTSpyderRyder]

I've seen all the posts about not using the battery jumper connections for attaching electrical items, so...
I believe the best course of action will be to attach directly to the battery terminals.ray:
Has anyone come across any videos which show what has to be removed to get to the battery.
The manual states on page 138, Step #7, the Rear Side Panel has to be removed.
If the manual is correct, you have to begin removing the panels in the front until
you get to and remove the Rear Side Panel.:sour:
Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.:helpsmilie:

 

[Bob Denman]

:welcome:
Question: What model bike and year, are we discussing??

 

[CTSpyderRyder]

Should've realized I was missing something::banghead:
2012 RT SE5

 

[bruiser]

The battery cover can be removed without removing the panels. But... it makes it a heck of a lot easier to get to the front (+) terminal if the left middle panel is off.

Start by removing the left mirror.
Remove the top left panel. You'll have to remove the left inspection panel in the frunk to get to the front retaining screw.
Remove the left middle panel.
Remove the left lower panel.

That gives you unobstructed access to the battery terminals.

Might I ask what it is you are connecting to the battery?

 

[CTSpyderRyder]

A Powerlet direct to battery cable for my galaxy S4 phone. I also bought a waterproof holder which attaches to the Center area of the handlebars from Leadermotorcycle using the aft 2 bolts and initially ran the wires of the Powerlet cable under the middle panel up through where the center handlebar post comes up and had connected it to the positive jumper connection and the negative to the bolt on the seat latch, but want to go to the battery now. First time I was able to snake the wires without removing the panels completely.
I was hoping to not get into all the panel removals, but if I must... I must....:gaah:
Is there anything that gets tricky on the panel removals that I should be waiting for?
Thanks.

 

[CTSpyderRyder]

Update

Well, I was able to get to the battery and hooked up the Powerlet cable. From start to finish it took 2 hours total. I don't think too bad for the first time removing all those panels. There is no way I can see of getting to the positive terminal on the battery unless you take off the panels. Once you get past thinking you're going to break the mirror it's downhill from there. The video I saw online showing the mirror removal gave me the guts to try on my own. Thanks for the info bruiser.

 

[bruiser]

Glad you were able to get it done. Glad to help. I've been in to our Spyders so many times it takes me about 10 minutes to strip all the side panels. Once you get use to it it's not that hard.

 

[Gunner 02]

I'm looking to do the same for an iPhone 5 cable, is there any issues with codes once the install is completed? I have a switch to turn off and on once it is mounted to control battery usage too.

Thanks,

 

[CTSpyderRyder]

I didn't notice any code issues yet, I added the ring terminals from the Powerlet Cable to the battery terminals (removed screws, added ring terminals on top of existing ring terminals already attached to the battery, then reinserted the screws) , then with the key out, plugged the phone in, saw it was charging, then removed the phone. I don't think it would be any different than using the 12 volt accessory outlet on the bike. I will start the bike tonight and plug the phone in and see if any issues arise, but I don't expect any.
As far as battery usage, what I found on line is, my phone may draw up to 2 amps. With the other accessories I see owners adding to their bikes, i don't expect that to be a problem either. In addition, i don't plan on leaving the phone unattended on the bike for any length of time. Hope this helps.

 

[CTSpyderRyder]

Update 2

Plugged phone in, inserted key, started bike, no issues arose.:yes:

 

[bruiser]

There shouldn't be any issues with codes.