Draining Oil vs Sucking up oil .....

[JayBros]

...Do I go to Baha Ron for the kit?

Ron sells the complete HiFlo filter and gasket kits at less than BRP charges. I have used both HiFlo and BRP filters and have seen no difference in performance. My personal oil choice is Amsoil Metric Full Synthetic 10W-40 that I get from Ron.

 

[JayBros]

I have a garage floor that is very smooth and the ramps tend to slide so I try not to use them...

My garage floor is also very smooth but there is an expansion groove cut in it the width of the floor so I use a couple of worn out lawn edger blades as stops at the front of the ramps. If I did not have the expansion groove I would try a piece of yoga mat under each ramp to see if they would give enough bite to keep the ramps from sliding.

 

[canamjhb]

The bottom line...... In order to maintain your warranty, the oil and filter needs to be changed at least at the intervals specified by the manufacturer. I believe BRP calls for oil AND FILTER at 3,000 miles and every 9,300 miles there after for the RT. I was told directly by BRP that a suck job DOES NOT meet this requirement. Your bike, your choice..... Jim

 

[Lew L]

.
I'm in the middle of a oil / filter change right now ( hot oil drain for about half and hour).

I would NEVER suck the oil out and leave a quart of old oil in the motor. It just isn't that hard to do a proper drain.

Lew L

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

My garage floor is also very smooth but there is an expansion groove cut in it the width of the floor so I use a couple of worn out lawn edger blades as stops at the front of the ramps. If I did not have the expansion groove I would try a piece of yoga mat under each ramp to see if they would give enough bite to keep the ramps from sliding.

I have discovered the sliding problem also ..... I had some scrap plywood ... cut two 8 X 36 inch pieces .... screwed a couple wood strips into one end .... then I put the ramp on top of the pylwood with the edge against the blocks .... when I drive the Spyder onto the plywood, it's own weight keeps the ramps from sliding ..... jmho ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[pidjones]

Had the sliding ramp problem - fixed it by spitting on the rubber pads under the ramps.

 

[2dogs]

Ron sells the complete HiFlo filter and gasket kits at less than BRP charges. I have used both HiFlo and BRP filters and have seen no difference in performance. My personal oil choice is Amsoil Metric Full Synthetic 10W-40 that I get from Ron.

Me 2. HiFlo, 10W-40 every 9k. and brake pads when I need them. The trans filter is another thing. I think it's a chunk filter. The first one I changed at 28k was as clean as the new one. There's been only a wee little bit of wear material on the oil plug magnet. So until I find larger pieces or specs of metal I'm forgoing the trans filter

 

[2dogs]

I have discovered the sliding problem also ..... I had some scrap plywood ... cut two 8 X 36 inch pieces .... screwed a couple wood strips into one end .... then I put the ramp edge against the blocks .... when I drive the Spyder onto the plywood, it's own weight keeps the ramps from sliding ..... jmho ..... Mike :thumbup:

I also ratchet tie the front tires/rims to the front of the ramps just to secure the machine because I raise the rear to the same level. I use a short 2X6 across the swing arm under the rear shock. I like the extra working room.

 

[spyder01]

I have discovered the sliding problem also ..... I had some scrap plywood ... cut two 8 X 36 inch pieces .... screwed a couple wood strips into one end .... then I put the ramp on top of the pylwood with the edge against the blocks .... when I drive the Spyder onto the plywood, it's own weight keeps the ramps from sliding ..... jmho ..... Mike :thumbup:

I dont really like using the ramp anyway bc you just dont get good access to anything up front bc the ramps get in the way.For an oil change they would be ok but for anything else I like to use a standard 1.5 ton floor jack which I made a steel plate that sits on top of the jack and locks into the frame of bike right at the perfect balance point and after raising I put jackstands under the front control arms and either wood blocks under the rear tire or a jackstand under the shock mount using a piece of rubber to keep from bending the shock bolt.I feel that jacking these spyders up is a PIA no matter how you do it.

 

[Woodaddict]

Had the sliding ramp problem - fixed it by spitting on the rubber pads under the ramps.

my "about 10 yrs old" ramps have built in rubber pads "built in on them" on them to keep from sliding. go out and BUY this new technology!!!

 

[FlyBoy2121]

Ramp

I Guys
your slip problem and your slope too steep, you have to increase the length of the slope, I redone my ramp, which was too old.

FlyBoy2121

 

[Motogordo]

Sept 5, 2021

I just had my 3,000 mile service this week .My charge was $250 ....They replaced the oil and filter and checked most of the other parts for tightness and fitting proper.
However, I did call three other canam spyder stores and they said between $300/ $400 ...... They all said between 3 and 3 1/2 hours labor....
Of course we go back to the question, Did they suck the oil out of the dipstick tube or drain from the bottom two plugs ?
Draining from the dipstick tube is less labor and therefor cheaper.
The other choice is to drain from the dipstick tube and THEN remove the balance of the oil from underneath and the two plugs.

 

[2dogs]

I dont really like using the ramp anyway bc you just dont get good access to anything up front bc the ramps get in the way. .....

Turn the ramps around.

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Home Depot and Lowes sell indoor/outdoor carpet runners that you can use to place the car ramps on top of to keep the ramps from sliding forward. Wrap a 2x4 at one end and attach carpet with staples, cut the runners to the exact same length and you will be able to position the bike to exactly the same spot each time. Cost is less than $30 for the runners.





You can also use a couple 2x6s up against the garage wall to brace the car ramps.

As for spillage and making a mess under the Spyder, I have changed my oil twice now on my 2020RT and there is only a slight amount of oil from the transmission drain plug that hits the brake rod linkage but this is easily cleaned up. The other drain plug is inset at an angle and oil does not get under the tupperware or drip anywhere that I have found.

As someone else noted, one of the two hardest parts of the oil change on the 2020RT is access to the oil filter and the other hard part is getting those 2 small o-rings off and on the big oil drain plug (A hook tool is what I use but it is still time consuming).

 

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Turn the ramps around.

Or, buy ramps that have removeable incline runners. I bought a pair off of Craigslist for $50 which work a treat on the Spyder.

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