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**** "DO'S & DO NOTS" for NEW SPYDER OWNERS... ****

Arrived in TX and was greeted by a friend looking to buy that day

After spending the past two weeks and 3500 miles on my Tas, I am more in love with her than ever. I had no problems with her. Well, I just found out there is a better way to fuel her with a different seat mod...and I couldn't make a nature call along the way without people pulling off the road to look her (and me:opps: dashing out from behind a tree) over.

I hadn't arrived at the RV resort an hour when a neighbor rushed over to tell me she had just returned from a dealer in Pharr, TX. I kept telling her to just this thread out and she hopped on and we visited all the happy campers.

I never did find out if or what the crosswind component is on her. I was severally buffeted from the right all the way through Utah, then from behind through NM and TX. That low in from California kept me alert.

Thanks again for this advise.
 
Thank the Lord for this thread!

I've had my RT-Limited for three weeks now, and received a fairly extensive intro by my salesman. At least I felt fairly confident setting off on a 300 mile trip home. I had a Honda 350 in college ( a long time ago) and thankfully had forgotten how to ride a two-wheeler. I have noticed what I think is "lugging the engine at low RPM" when running around town. I will now change how I ride around town. I will also try the not rolling off the throttle when shifting. Thank you Illinois Boy!!
 
I guess the dealer likes it!

I decided today to copy and send the do's and don'ts to my dealer via email. I was taking Frankensmurf in for its 600 mile service and thought I would share this. When I sent it I pointed out that much of this is information I really should have known during the buying process in addition to reading the manual three times. They sent back a sincere thank you and said they would share with all new Spyder riders. However, I was very surprised to find a laminated version hanging on the floor unit of the dealership when I arrived. Nice to see an open mind and such responsiveness in a dealer. Thanks to all on this forum who contributed.
 
Read it many times...good stuff

Thank you IllinoisBoy - great stuff...Read this before, and after purchase and am conscious of it when riding!! Even pointing this out to my wife while she rides.
Thanks so much :)Ray ((we love Southwestern Illinois btw, lived in Mascoutah!! - would go back in a heartbeat))
 
Glad this is helping some of you...

I added a couple items to the end of the list that I have noticed a few have had trouble with. Hopefully these two additions will help.

Everyone ride safe and alert at all times!
 
at the risk of getting flogged....

I am curious where the information came from to run at higher rpm's? Is this something BRP recommends? I can't find anything from BRP to confirm this. The manual says nothing about it, except for the 3000 rpm's suggested on the exercises. I have 5,000 trouble free miles on my RSS and have always tried to shift gears smoothly and without lugging the engine. Rode 100 miles today at higher rpm's and 65 mph in fourth gear seems a bit high.

I understand the increased performance in the powerband sweet spot but for just cruising around it doesn't seem logical. More revolutions means more wear and tear on moving parts, right? Why cruise at 5600 rpms when the engine runs smoothly at 4900 rpms in a higher gear at the same speed?

Not trying to be a nay sayer, just looking for more information to support this riding style. What does BRP recommend?
 
I am curious where the information came from to run at higher rpm's? Is this something BRP recommends? I can't find anything from BRP to confirm this. The manual says nothing about it, except for the 3000 rpm's suggested on the exercises. I have 5,000 trouble free miles on my RSS and have always tried to shift gears smoothly and without lugging the engine. Rode 100 miles today at higher rpm's and 65 mph in fourth gear seems a bit high.

I understand the increased performance in the powerband sweet spot but for just cruising around it doesn't seem logical. More revolutions means more wear and tear on moving parts, right? Why cruise at 5600 rpms when the engine runs smoothly at 4900 rpms in a higher gear at the same speed?

Not trying to be a nay sayer, just looking for more information to support this riding style. What does BRP recommend?
BRP makes no recommendations, except to maintain sufficient rpm to avoid clutch damage on the SE. That point is something above the 3,000-3,400 rpm where the centrifugal clutch becomes fully engaged. If you are happy running at 4900 rpm vs 5600, knock yourself out. Many of us prefer more, for the throttle response, torque, and smoothness, but it is an individual choice.
 
I am curious where the information came from to run at higher rpm's? Is this something BRP recommends? I can't find anything from BRP to confirm this. The manual says nothing about it, except for the 3000 rpm's suggested on the exercises. I have 5,000 trouble free miles on my RSS and have always tried to shift gears smoothly and without lugging the engine. Rode 100 miles today at higher rpm's and 65 mph in fourth gear seems a bit high.

I understand the increased performance in the powerband sweet spot but for just cruising around it doesn't seem logical. More revolutions means more wear and tear on moving parts, right? Why cruise at 5600 rpms when the engine runs smoothly at 4900 rpms in a higher gear at the same speed?

Not trying to be a nay sayer, just looking for more information to support this riding style. What does BRP recommend?

Let the flogging begin! Ha! Just joking... no flogging is going to happen.

If you read the list you will see that it mostly applies to the RT. It is understood the RS has different characteristics.

If there were any one particular suggestion I would adhere to would be to keep your RPM's at 4,300 or higher in any given gear you are in (give or take). Since you are running at 4,900 and not lugging it... you are probably doing just fine -- although you are not realizing your machines best performance.

Too many think that since higher RPM's are suggested that you have to ride the Spyder like a maniac. That just isn't so...

As mentioned... the clutch engages in the low 2,000 range, however is not fully locked-in until the low to mid 3,000's. Riding it below the range of it being locked-in can cause slippage (even if you do not notice it); which will eventually wear-out your clutch. (Read the manual for the RPM the clutch "stalls". That is the RPM where it is locked.)

Regarding using higher RPM's in general, for those that do try to follow the suggestions will find their machine will operate closer to peak performance with regard to power. (As you mentioned, the power-band's strength is at higher RPM's.)

If anyone doesn't want to run their machine at the higher RPM's, that is their business. For the many riders that do and have become accustomed to it are finding their machines run better and have more power at the throttle at any given time -- which equals better overall performance and enjoyment. There are simply too many that ride their machines at higher RPM's that can testify to the performance improvement.

Regarding "wear" on the engine at higher RPM's... I would not necessarily agree with it causing more wear. Obviously, that subject is going to be highly debated. However, in my humble opinion; if you keep your machine properly maintained; running the engine closer to its peak power-band should not be a problem -- especially compared to someone that consistently runs their machine in higher gears at lower RPM's.
 
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Thanks for the clarification. Good to know about the clutch. I have found that I like it much better downshifting myself instead of letting the bike do it for me. It downshifts much smoother when I do it. Great forum here! I really appreciate the input.

Let the flogging begin! Ha! Just joking... no flogging is going to happen.

If you read the list you will see that it mostly applies to the RT. It is understood the RS has different characteristics. The engine is even slightly different than an RT. (Shorter stroke.)

If there were any one particular suggestion I would adhere to would be to keep your RPM's at 4,300 or higher in any given gear you are in (give or take). Since you are running at 4,900 and not lugging it... you are probably doing just fine -- although you are not realizing your machines best performance.

Too many think that since higher RPM's are suggested that you have to ride the Spyder like a maniac. That just isn't so...

As mentioned... the clutch engages in the low 2,000 range, however is not fully locked-in until the low to mid 3,000's. Riding it below the range of it being locked-in can cause slippage (even if you do not notice it); which will eventually wear-out your clutch. (Read the manual for the RPM the clutch "stalls". That is the RPM where it is locked.)

Regarding using higher RPM's in general, for those that do try to follow the suggestions will find their machine will operate closer to peak performance with regard to power. (As you mentioned, the power-band's strength is at higher RPM's.)

If anyone doesn't want to run their machine at the higher RPM's, that is their business. For the many riders that do and have become accustomed to it are finding their machines run better and have more power at the throttle at any given time -- which equals better overall performance and enjoyment. There are simply too many that ride their machines at higher RPM's that can testify to the performance improvement.

Regarding "wear" on the engine at higher RPM's... I would not necessarily agree with it causing more wear. Obviously, that subject is going to be highly debated. However, in my humble opinion; if you keep your machine properly maintained; running the engine closer to its peak power-band should not be a problem -- especially compared to someone that consistently runs their machine in higher gears at lower RPM's.
 
Minor correction.

Let the flogging begin! Ha! Just joking... no flogging is going to happen.

If you read the list you will see that it mostly applies to the RT. It is understood the RS has different characteristics. The engine is even slightly different than an RT. (Shorter stroke.)

Let me take a turn at some flogging. Sorry I could not resist. Minor correction in your otherwise good advise.

The bore and stroke in the RS and RT engines are identical. All cranks the same part number, so same stroke. All cylinders the same part number, so same bore.

RS engine specs 2.JPGRT engine secs 2.JPG
 
Regarding "wear" on the engine at higher RPM's you have to consider the wear that running an engine at too low RPMs causes also. IMO the best you can do is keep the Spyder well maintained and listen to and feel the engine. Shifting when everything is sounding and feeling the smoothest that will get you the best performance and life out of your Spyder (or any vehicle).
 
Regarding "wear" on the engine at higher RPM's you have to consider the wear that running an engine at too low RPMs causes also. IMO the best you can do is keep the Spyder well maintained and listen to and feel the engine. Shifting when everything is sounding and feeling the smoothest that will get you the best performance and life out of your Spyder (or any vehicle).


Nicely put!
 
Great Info

New Spyder rider/owner here. The info here is great. Thanks to everyone who has posted. I have listened and learner! :ani29:
 
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