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Don't buy a BRP Belt Tensioner

tntnj

Member
I bought a belt tensioner with an upgraded roller , big mistake. I had it on for 300 miles and noticed a wear mark on the belt. The install was correct. The main problem was the arm with the roller on it. It looked like the arm was able to move around. I checked the bearing on the roller and it had play in it at 300 miles, The arm was not stationary, and with play in the roller bearing , it looks like it was moving causing a wear mark. Yes it took the vibration out , but at what cost. It is off now, and I learned a lesson , Listen to forum .IMG_0715.jpg[video]i[/video]
 
Hard to tell from the picture, but are you sure this represents damage to the belt? It just looks like a run mark, which is probably to be expected. Does the roller spin easily? Though I agree that having play in the bearing is not a good thing.
 
When I remove the tensioner from my belt I noticed marks all along the top of the belt where the tensioner placed pressure on the belt to remove vibration. The marks showed no harm to the belt and were spaced approx one inch apart and were approx one inch long.
 
When I remove the tensioner from my belt I noticed marks all along the top of the belt where the tensioner placed pressure on the belt to remove vibration. The marks showed no harm to the belt and were spaced approx one inch apart and were approx one inch long.

The picture is focused on parts beyond the belt. So the marks you are referring to are not showing up well. At lest not on my monitor. The wheel is going to leave marks. They are not necessarily doing damage. The belt is pretty tough. Now, if the bearing seizes up and the wheel stops turning, or falls off, then you have BIG issues!
 
The roller does not sit centered on the belt . The is no adjustment to center the roller. And with play in the roller bearing (motor side) Besides it almost touches the chrome foot bracket ., I was not comfortable to leave it on.IMG_0714.jpg
 
The picture is focused on parts beyond the belt. So the marks you are referring to are not showing up well. At lest not on my monitor. The wheel is going to leave marks. They are not necessarily doing damage. The belt is pretty tough. Now, if the bearing seizes up and the wheel stops turning, or falls off, then you have BIG issues!

The marks were just that, marks. No damage to the belt whatsoever. I had more miles in my tensioner than many others mentioned here that had their's come apart or freeze up. I zip-tied mine up off the belt and will remove it at another time. Interestingly, the chain tensioners on my other bikes were all mounted on the underside of the chain where slack normally occures.
 
.... Interestingly, the chain tensioners on my other bikes were all mounted on the underside of the chain where slack normally occures.

That'd be because they WERE actually chain TENSIONERS, unlike the rollers on Spyder belts, which are Vibration DAMPENERS, designed to stop the harmonic vibrations in the tension side of the belt that get transferred into the rest of the machine & cause issues for the Ryders. :thumbup:
 
On the F3 LTD you can not see the tensioner. You have to remove the panels to see it. This is not something you can just pull off to the side of the road and remove in 5 minutes. At 300 miles I saw a mark on the belt at the rear wheel pulley and the roller bearing on the tensioner was bad already. (The roller was upgraded)
. The other problem I had , beside the mark, is that you can not see the tensioner to keep an eye on it. The video I tried to upload ( would not let me) showed the arm of the tensioner can move away from bracket by pushing on with almost no pressure. So it was removed. Maybe I rushed too soon and did not give it a chance , but I would rather be safe then sorry. Just beware if you have one, check after each ride.
 
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tntnj, Mine looks almost the same. I posted somewhere else on the forum about it. I would have thought the roller would cover the complete width of the belt. It appears that is doesn't.
 

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That'd be because they WERE actually chain TENSIONERS, unlike the rollers on Spyder belts, which are Vibration DAMPENERS, designed to stop the harmonic vibrations in the tension side of the belt that get transferred into the rest of the machine & cause issues for the Ryders. :thumbup:

Bangorbob's photo shows marks on his belt similar to the ones I have. Mine are approx 1 1/4" long and spaced about 1" apart and are slightly diagonally and evenly spaced along the surface of the belt.
 
That'd be because they WERE actually chain TENSIONERS, unlike the rollers on Spyder belts, which are Vibration DAMPENERS, designed to stop the harmonic vibrations in the tension side of the belt that get transferred into the rest of the machine & cause issues for the Ryders. :thumbup:

Ah! Love the Logic! Good luck with assimilation though... ;-)
 
I bought a belt tensioner with an upgraded roller , big mistake. I had it on for 300 miles and noticed a wear mark on the belt. The install was correct. The main problem was the arm with the roller on it. It looked like the arm was able to move around. I checked the bearing on the roller and it had play in it at 300 miles, The arm was not stationary, and with play in the roller bearing , it looks like it was moving causing a wear mark. Yes it took the vibration out , but at what cost. It is off now, and I learned a lesson , Listen to forum .View attachment 192540[video]i[/video]

What does that mean? If your idler is loose at the base where to the bolts are, it will eventually blow. Grab a ratchet and tighten the bolts. I believe they are 12mm.
 
Rattlebars the bolts were tight . the arm attached at the bracket (where the spring is at) and the bearing were the weak points .
 
I have a perfect solution to this problem, like it has been said MANY times in back post on this item,, back your belt tension back to 165-180, take the unit off all together and ride it like you stole it!!! Ride more, worry less!!!
 
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