Has everyone got this squealing issue with their Spyder's resolved? I just bought a 2011 RT-S SE5 and mine does this. Dealer is telling me this is normal for Spyders and they all do it.
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Do all SPYDERS squeal when you give them gas?
- Thread starter JonGalt
- Start date
Has everyone got this squealing issue with their Spyder's resolved? I just bought a 2011 RT-S SE5 and mine does this. Dealer is telling me this is normal for Spyders and they all do it.
:dontknow:
If the squealing is loud, and annoying; At that point it's not normal,
Your belt is too tight, or it's rubbing against the flange on the rear sprocket.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
It is not normal...or healthy for the Spyder. They definitely do not all do this...although due to bad setup, all that your dealer has done might. Kick your idiot dealer in his lazy butt and tell him to fix it. Probably a belt alignment issue.
Lamonster
SpyderLovers Founder
It seems that this is a problem mostly with the 2011. My dealer is having fits with this right now on all his 2011 units. Even the guys at the dealer show were asking me if I had heard about this on the boards. It's not a simple belt adjustment and BRP is working on it.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
Thanks for the update. I guess I should be glad that my 2011 has never shown a sign of it.
Bootie
New member
Squeel
Nobody mentioned that they use a BELT TENSIONER. It would seem that this would alleviate some of the problems, like getting the belt too tight (Lamont).
Has the tensioner fallen out of favor with this group? Also, if the tensioner had some small side-to-side adjustments that might take care of the alignment problems.
IMHO
Nobody mentioned that they use a BELT TENSIONER. It would seem that this would alleviate some of the problems, like getting the belt too tight (Lamont).
Has the tensioner fallen out of favor with this group? Also, if the tensioner had some small side-to-side adjustments that might take care of the alignment problems.
IMHO
I appreciate the information guys. I am new to the bike world so all of this is new to me. I don't know what sounds are normal and what ones are not normal. I do have a little bit of common sense and to me the noise is not normal. My dealer put me on a 2011 Limited they had as a demo with 3000 miles on it to prove that "all spyders make this noise". It made the same squeal, just not as loud as mine does. What damage does this cause to the bike? Hopefully whatever would break would be covered under warranty. At this stage I just don't know what else to do because they are convinced its "normal".
M109Dreamer
Active member
We just picked up the wifes 2011 RT-S SE5 a few months ago and the belt made the same noise that you have stated. I took it back to the dealer and the belt had started to rub on the front pulley. They ordered a new belt and I told them about a lower tension that has been posted here on the board. I suggested that they contact BRP to get the right answer. The belt does squeel very slightly if its under a good load very slightly but seems ok. No wear as of right now on the belt. Everything was covered under warranty.
36mm
96 flp
dadof4
New member
Thanks boborgera.
capt.jim
Member
The RT tensioner brackets are adjustable with slightly elongated slots in case the drill gets a little off center, but this is to make sure the pulley can be aligned perfectly with the belt. The GS/RS tensioner clamps on without drilling and is fully adjustable. A properly aligned pulley will have no effect on the tracking of the rear sprocket, it is there only to control belt slap.
My 2011 RT Limited only has 1022 miles on it and it sqeals/screaches. BRP instructed the dealer to realign the engine to the front drive pulley. They did this by fabricating a steel bar which they ran through the alignment holes in the engine after loosening the engine mounts, re-aligning the engine and drive pulleys. They replaced the Cush drive and belt as well. After 2 each 3 week stints in the dealers shop, the bike was returned the other day. However, I still have the same problem, but the screeching noise coming fm the left front of the engine is much less loud. The dealer is now telling me that BRP is looking at either redesigning the belt and or pulley with rounded teeth, to some other design. They are also looking at a special coating for the front pulley to reduce friction...and noise.
dadof4
New member
Problem Solved
About 3 weeks ago I started hearing the chirping on acceleration on my 2010 RT with 4700 miles on it. By coincidence it was right after I trailered it for the first time. I had ratchet strapped it very tight (I mean very tight!) to the trailer taking care not to strap through the rear sprocket. It turns out my new my trailer had a problem, which has since been corrected. The wheel lugs were not concentric to hub's center so the Spyder was in for a jolting ride bouncing alot. I suspected the jolting trailer ride and tight strap had something to do with the chirping. I took it to the dealer and was told they could not hear the chirp and everything checked OK. Like Lamonster, I thought the noise was coming from the front wheel. I noticed my belt which had always run close (~1mm) from the flange on the rear sprocket had started to move further away from the flange. Last week we trailered it to Virginia and put over 500 chirping miles on it through the curves in the mountains. Yesterday after reading this thread I checked the belt. It had wandered even further away from the sprocket's flange. The right adjusting screw had no tension on it. It was not "seated". I could wiggle it around with my fingers. I suspected that may have something to do with the problem so I took a trip to Sears and purchased a 36mm socket. Much to my surprise the large axle nuts, which I learned from this thread should be torqued to 96 flb., were barely tight. The right side of the axle had moved toward the back of the bike causing the adjustment screw on that side to be loose. I loosened the axle nut a bit further took a ratchet strap and secured it to my stationary tractor, ratcheted the wheel to the right, gave it a couple of whacks with a large rubber mallet and retightened the nut. The adjusting screw was seated and no longer loose. I took the bike out for a 20 mile ride checking the belt several times. One again it is about 1mm from the flange and the chirp is gone! I'm convinced the combination of the loose nut, tight ratchet strap, and rough trailer ride was enough throw the semi-loose rear wheel slightly out of alignment and cause the belt to wander. The belt tension seems ok using NancysToy 90 degree check. I've got to have a serious conversation with my dealer.
This forum is fantastic. I would have never found out what was causing the chirp and discovered the loose rear wheel nuts without this thread.
About 3 weeks ago I started hearing the chirping on acceleration on my 2010 RT with 4700 miles on it. By coincidence it was right after I trailered it for the first time. I had ratchet strapped it very tight (I mean very tight!) to the trailer taking care not to strap through the rear sprocket. It turns out my new my trailer had a problem, which has since been corrected. The wheel lugs were not concentric to hub's center so the Spyder was in for a jolting ride bouncing alot. I suspected the jolting trailer ride and tight strap had something to do with the chirping. I took it to the dealer and was told they could not hear the chirp and everything checked OK. Like Lamonster, I thought the noise was coming from the front wheel. I noticed my belt which had always run close (~1mm) from the flange on the rear sprocket had started to move further away from the flange. Last week we trailered it to Virginia and put over 500 chirping miles on it through the curves in the mountains. Yesterday after reading this thread I checked the belt. It had wandered even further away from the sprocket's flange. The right adjusting screw had no tension on it. It was not "seated". I could wiggle it around with my fingers. I suspected that may have something to do with the problem so I took a trip to Sears and purchased a 36mm socket. Much to my surprise the large axle nuts, which I learned from this thread should be torqued to 96 flb., were barely tight. The right side of the axle had moved toward the back of the bike causing the adjustment screw on that side to be loose. I loosened the axle nut a bit further took a ratchet strap and secured it to my stationary tractor, ratcheted the wheel to the right, gave it a couple of whacks with a large rubber mallet and retightened the nut. The adjusting screw was seated and no longer loose. I took the bike out for a 20 mile ride checking the belt several times. One again it is about 1mm from the flange and the chirp is gone! I'm convinced the combination of the loose nut, tight ratchet strap, and rough trailer ride was enough throw the semi-loose rear wheel slightly out of alignment and cause the belt to wander. The belt tension seems ok using NancysToy 90 degree check. I've got to have a serious conversation with my dealer.
This forum is fantastic. I would have never found out what was causing the chirp and discovered the loose rear wheel nuts without this thread.
Last edited:
Update on squeal
Well, I took the Spyder back to the dealer (5th time now and I've only owned it 2 weeks) to complain about the squealing and showed them the posts from this thread. They took checked the alignment of the belt and contacted BRP about the issue. All they told me was the bike's alignment was fine and that BRP said they are aware of the noise, it wont hurt anything on the Spyder, and to just enjoy the bike. Thats my answer. The bike is now squealing 3 times as loud as it was before they worked on it. I dont know what else to do about it since i am obviously not going to get any more help.
When I got the bike home, and extremely frustrated, I decided to spray WD40 all over the belt to see if it helps. It did. It cut the squealing down by 95%. The bad part, it came back after 2 days so I just sprayed it again. Looks like I will just have to do this 3 times a week till someone comes out with a fix for it. Hope WD40 doesnt damage the belt or anything else....
Well, I took the Spyder back to the dealer (5th time now and I've only owned it 2 weeks) to complain about the squealing and showed them the posts from this thread. They took checked the alignment of the belt and contacted BRP about the issue. All they told me was the bike's alignment was fine and that BRP said they are aware of the noise, it wont hurt anything on the Spyder, and to just enjoy the bike. Thats my answer. The bike is now squealing 3 times as loud as it was before they worked on it. I dont know what else to do about it since i am obviously not going to get any more help.
When I got the bike home, and extremely frustrated, I decided to spray WD40 all over the belt to see if it helps. It did. It cut the squealing down by 95%. The bad part, it came back after 2 days so I just sprayed it again. Looks like I will just have to do this 3 times a week till someone comes out with a fix for it. Hope WD40 doesnt damage the belt or anything else....
I used belt dressing on my 08GS along with both my dealer and me trying to eliminate the squeal with numerous adjustments to no avail.
At just under 18 thousand miles the sprocket and shaft blew. After the repair [30 + days 1800+$] Miraculously the squeal stopped.
The Spyder is gone, And as far as I'm concerned so is BRP!!
ryedoggracing
New member
Belt tension
What do you have your tensioner set at? Thanks Tim
What do you have your tensioner set at? Thanks Tim
Y Rider
New member
With the Spyder on the ground the hash mark on the arm is centered between the two highest tension marks (3 marks total). Not sure what that measures in pounds but at that setting most of the belt vibrations are gone except for a little between 4-4.5K RPMs. Still need to play around with the tension to find the best setting. I think my static belt tension is on the low side of the spec. My dealer said the tension was in spec. My recipt had a measurement of 351. Not sure what that means.
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