Did You Or Will You Switch To FULL Synthetic Oil Upon 1st Oil Change?

[EdMat]

There is always a debate on which oil is better, what viscosity is better, full or semi synthetic, etc. How many Spyders will get ridden enuff miles for any of that to come into play anyway. My bet would be ANY good oil, that meets the minimum specs, will carry the engine well in excess of 100,000 miles following the recommended change cycle.

 

[Little Blue]

Two Years Ago 2019 Now 2021

I may be switching to a 10w40 full synthetic next season as I already have numerous quarts on hand that I had purchased for my Honda Shadow and my Suzuki Dr650
before I sold them

All very helpful information. Enjoy your reading, but this post was started ......07/21/2019. .....

 

[ziggy]

These are our toys....and this is how we play . hyea:

 

[SportsterDoc]

Motul was recommended to me for my Ducati, so that's what I've used. It's a synthetic with great reviews on youtube. When it's time, I'll use it.:2thumbs:

Motoul 7100 is excellent oil. My Moto Guzzi 7II stipulated 10W60 and Motoul 7100 served very well, riding in temperatures up to 116 F (47C).
It had a separate trans. The engine only held 2 liters.

 

[SportsterDoc]

I m not switching to full synthetic. Hapy with the BRP synthetic blend. Change the oil once a year every 6000k.

Whether you purchase Amsoil from Ron for $11 a quart, Castrol from O'Reillys for $10 a quart ($10.99 not on sale?) or any other major brand that you prefer, pure synthetic is little, if any, difference in price over synthetic blend.
Also, 10W-40 is only rated up to 104F
In the southwest USA, using 10W-50 is important for summer ambient. It performed well in my 2014 Honda CB1100, 2020 Ryker and now my 2022 Triumph.

I well remember Harley-Davidson dismissing pure synthetic, citing "bearing skate" as a concern...because H-D did not yet have their private label available.
If it is so slippery that a bearing won't turn, then how could a bearing develop flat spots?!? Just being sarcastic towards H-D, especially since they discontinued Sportster models that I liked.

May not be an issue for Spyders, but the Ryker, with CVT trans, is cruising at 6,000 to 7,000 RPMs.

 

[pidjones]

First change went to my standard Rotella blue jug.

 

[KnurledNut]

While I appreciate all the petroleum engineers on this site, I am keep with the MFG recommendations for my Ryker.

 

[DickB]

While I appreciate all the petroleum engineers on this site, I am keep with the MFG recommendations for my Ryker.

 

[Construction tech]

Whether you purchase Amsoil from Ron for $11 a quart, Castrol from O'Reillys for $10 a quart ($10.99 not on sale?) or any other major brand that you prefer, pure synthetic is little, if any, difference in price over synthetic blend.
Also, 10W-40 is only rated up to 104F
In the southwest USA, using 10W-50 is important for summer ambient. It performed well in my 2014 Honda CB1100, 2020 Ryker and now my 2022 Triumph.

I well remember Harley-Davidson dismissing pure synthetic, citing "bearing skate" as a concern...because H-D did not yet have their private label available.
If it is so slippery that a bearing won't turn, then how could a bearing develop flat spots?!? Just being sarcastic towards H-D, especially since they discontinued Sportster models that I liked.

May not be an issue for Spyders, but the Ryker, with CVT trans, is cruising at 6,000 to 7,000 RPMs.

I appreciate the comment but i dont buy oil by the quart… i buy the kit that BRP sells with filters and o-rings and i get a good discount since i m military in Canada where our climate is a little different than Nevada… this is what the BRP reccommends and happy with it��*

 

[Mikey]

It still amazes me how tires and oil can get everyone twisted up in a ball like it dose, no matter how old the tread is!!opcorn:

 

[RiderDuke]

It still amazes me how tires and oil can get everyone twisted up in a ball like it dose, no matter how old the tread is!!opcorn:

I'm new here and it's nice to see Spyder Forum is just like every other MC Forum...:agree:opcorn:

 

[Tslepebull]

I switched to synthetic but not at the first oil change. My dealer did the first oil change at the 3K inspection (presumably with BRP blend). I conducted the second oil change at 8.3K with Mobil Delvac 5/40 synthetic diesel oil https://www.mobil.com/en-us/commercial-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-delvac-1-5w40 as it met the SL, SJ & SN standards. I will change again at 11.5K with a 5/40 full synthetic and again at 15K to get on an easy 5K interval. The 5k interval just makes the math easier. For the record I am also using synthetic gear oil (of the proper viscosity) in the gear box and final drive

 

[troop]

I'll reply to this rekindled thread. Change to a full synthetic at your first oil change. It's more than ready for full syn at that point.