Did You Or Will You Switch To FULL Synthetic Oil Upon 1st Oil Change?

[BajaRon]

Of course they would recommend their filters... .
Those filters are not as special as they like to make them... but each to its own.

Filters are like oils... everyone has their own religious beliefs .

Actually, there is a lot of good information out there based on actual testing. Which products you choose does not have to be based on faith, myth, or intuition.

 

[Gwolf]

I guess everybody has their own opinions about oil changes, and that is fine. I see no reason not to use full synthetic and change the oil every 5,000 miles like I always have. The used oil is taken in for recycling. The filters are changed every time. It does not take that long and spending $40 or $50 to change the oil in a machine you paid $20 grand for is not a big deal. I ran two of the old air cooled Harley 1200 Sportster engines over 150.000 miles before rebuilding them, with the same oil change schedules. Do it like the book or do it how ever you want. Mine gonna run full synthetic and get changed every 5.000 miles.

 

[BajaRon]

I guess everybody has their own opinions about oil changes, and that is fine. I see no reason not to use full synthetic and change the oil every 5,000 miles like I always have. The used oil is taken in for recycling. The filters are changed every time. It does not take that long and spending $40 or $50 to change the oil in a machine you paid $20 grand for is not a big deal. I ran two of the old air cooled Harley 1200 Sportster engines over 150.000 miles before rebuilding them, with the same oil change schedules. Do it like the book or do it how ever you want. Mine gonna run full synthetic and get changed every 5.000 miles.

I plan to change out all the fluids on my Ryker to a true, fully synthetic alternative. I did the same on my Spyder back when. Harley's typically run at very low RPM, which is a bit easier on the oil than a higher RPM motor.

I don't want to say that the way I do it is necessary. Because it obviously is not. But I like running longer service intervals (especially on long trips). I get my oil tested so I know if I am going too far or not. So far, I have never worn a fully synthetic oil out before servicing. I feel it's somewhat like getting high mileage tires. Why throw away a tire at 40k if it's got another 20k left just because that's what I did with the OEM tires? Granted, with tires it's easy to see when they need to be changed. Without analyzing your oil, it's pretty much impossible to know how it is performing. You can't tell by looking at it like you can with tires.

I think the real debate centers on 'Need' rather than whether or not a full synthetic is a superior lubricant.

I try not to preach to people, other than it's not all smoke and mirrors. There is hard data out there if someone is interested.

If you like what you are doing and it works. It's all good!

 

[Aufgeblassen47]

Of course they would recommend their filters... .
Those filters are not as special as they like to make them... but each to its own.

Filters are like oils... everyone has their own religious beliefs .

Indeed. I've NEVER had low oil pressure due to a clogging filter in all the years I've run my filters to twice the recommended interval. My '98 Jetta TDI diesel went to 20,000 mile intervals instead of recommended 10,000, and that was even before ultra low sulfur diesel fuel.

Fuels are so clean these days, and emissions are so low, that very few contaminants get in the oil.

 

[Gwolf]

Just about all OEM recommendations have a generous safety factor built in. You can exceed the recommendations and usually get away with it, but after you go past the manufacturer recommendation you are working with out a net.

 

[Aufgeblassen47]

Just about all OEM recommendations have a generous safety factor built in. You can exceed the recommendations and usually get away with it, but after you go past the manufacturer recommendation you are working with out a net.

ONLY if you are still within the warranty period.

 

[BajaRon]

Just about all OEM recommendations have a generous safety factor built in. You can exceed the recommendations and usually get away with it, but after you go past the manufacturer recommendation you are working with out a net.

I wonder about this. Especially with the 1330 motors. Sometimes the bean counters override the engineers.

The service interval on the 1330 is 9,300 miles. This, using the same motor oil that is recommended for the 998 models. From a fair amount of testing, we found that the BRP blended oil began to shear quite rapidly from 4,500 miles to 5,000 miles. It is also interesting that the service interval on the 998 is 4,500 miles. A prudent mileage given the testing figures.

From the independent oil analysis I've seen, the blended BRP oil service life runs about the same in the 1330 as it did in the 998. Which is not surprising. The results I've seen show the BRP blended oil shearing down to about a 20w oil between 5,000 & 5,500 miles. It does not appear to lose any more viscosity once it reaches the 20w point. But that means you're running a 20w, not a 40w as recommended, for about 4,000 miles with the recommended service interval. Is the 1330 fine with a 20w oil? If so, why recommend a 40w spec.?

There was a lot of pressure on BRP to extend the service interval with the new design. This extended service interval is prominently touted in the Spyder sales information.

Just interesting bits of information that really have no definitive answer that I know of to date.

 

[r1100rider]

I don't know why you wouldn't switch to full synthetic after a reasonable break in period, I certainly will.

this seams like the best plan my experience has been that syn oil is almost to good and won't let enough wear for break in of rings ,the ryker not sharing oil with a tranny and wet clutch will be easier on oil but of course the length of miles per start is what really determines the break down of oil , not for a real question that I was ask when I was talking up amsoil. Show me a picture of an amsoil refinery I don't know weather they do or don't but the point is that many oils are just a label

 

[Highwayman2013]

this seams like the best plan my experience has been that syn oil is almost to good and won't let enough wear for break in of rings ,the ryker not sharing oil with a tranny and wet clutch will be easier on oil but of course the length of miles per start is what really determines the break down of oil , not for a real question that I was ask when I was talking up amsoil. Show me a picture of an amsoil refinery I don't know weather they do or don't but the point is that many oils are just a label

I don't know about just a label. I can tell you from real world riding and oil analysis that the BRP blend oil loses viscosity pretty fast in the 998. Mobil 1 10W40 was at 8,600 when I had it analyzed and showed loss of viscosity. The results with Amsoil at 9,666 miles showed no loss of viscosity and a recommendation to try running the oil to 12,000 miles on the next change. To be honest I was quite surprised the Amsoil did much better than the Mobil 1. 2016 F3L using Blackstone labs. Maybe I'll try the Spectro next.

 

[BajaRon]

this seams like the best plan my experience has been that syn oil is almost to good and won't let enough wear for break in of rings ,the ryker not sharing oil with a tranny and wet clutch will be easier on oil but of course the length of miles per start is what really determines the break down of oil , not for a real question that I was ask when I was talking up amsoil. Show me a picture of an amsoil refinery I don't know weather they do or don't but the point is that many oils are just a label

You are right. There is no Amsoil refinery. Nor is there a Ford, Chevy Toyota or BRP refinery. Refineries are like steel mills. They produce the basic products that customers ask for. From cheap steel to very high quality, expensive products. Sometimes all you need is cheap steel to get the job done. The problem comes when you use cheap steel when a higher quality is needed.

Refineries make the base product. Individual suppliers like Castrol, Penzoil, Amsoil, etc., using the various quality and grades of the base oil they choose, make alterations to get the final product. Just like Chevy may take a plate of steel and make a fender out of it. And another company will take that same plate of steel and make something completely different with it.

 

[Sarge]

I've been using AMSOIL for 20 years now. 20k interval in my cars and trucks. 10k or once per year in everything else, bikes, trikes, lawn, garden and tractor equipment. Heat is the biggest determent of oil. Oils main job is to remove heat from parts. That's why you should use a full synthetic oil on any air cooled engine. Fact is, jet engines will not work (for long) with dino oil. All jet and turbine engines require full synthetic oils.

 

[acdcking12]

I looked up Amsoil for these Spyders. Am I correct when I see a list price of $14 bucks a quart and we need 5 quarts?

Also where are you guys buying your Oil filters? And do I need an air filter as well?

 

[BajaRon]

I looked up Amsoil for these Spyders. Am I correct when I see a list price of $14 bucks a quart and we need 5 quarts?

Also where are you guys buying your Oil filters? And do I need an air filter as well?

I carry Amsoil and filter kits. I sell Amsoil at my actual dealer price. I don't make anything on the oil. So total cost varies by where you live and how much you get. But an average is $13.00 per quart delivered for 5 quarts and $11.00 per quart for 1 case (12 quarts). I do make money on the filter kits. But I try to price them fairly.

A typical price for a full service oil and filter set is less than what you'll pay for a BRP package deal if you purchase 2 sets at a time. I figure, if you're going to use them anyway. Why not save the money? Amsoil has proven, over and over, in independent analysis, to be far superior to anything BRP offers.

You can see these items here on my Banner Ad Page. Not the only way to go, of course. But these are the products I use and have had tested. So I can recommend them with confidence.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?23928-New-sponsor-here-for-Filters-amp-Helmets

 

[Pantera]

I may be switching to a 10w40 full synthetic next season as I already have numerous quarts on hand that I had purchased for my Honda Shadow and my Suzuki Dr650 before I sold them

 

[Deanna777]

Just curious! I certainly will. In addition, I think I will be able to safely increase change interval to 9,000 miles doing thusly. :mrgreen:

I switched to full synthetic oil after my first oil change. I have been using the full synthetic oil ever since. I am using Valvoline 4T 10w -40 Full Synthetic. I have not had any problems.

Deanna

 

[old Timer]

IMHO based on way too many years experience and no offence intended, dumb question, what possible reason would you not consider using full Synthetic. I can not think of any reason.

 

[Steve W.]

From the independent oil analysis I've seen, the blended BRP oil service life runs about the same in the 1330 as it did in the 998. Which is not surprising. The results I've seen show the BRP blended oil shearing down to about a 20w oil between 5,000 & 5,500 miles. It does not appear to lose any more viscosity once it reaches the 20w point. But that means you're running a 20w, not a 40w as recommended, for about 4,000 miles with the recommended service interval. Is the 1330 fine with a 20w oil? If so, why recommend a 40w spec.?

I have a habit of reading between the lines, sort of like thinking "outside the box".

Therefore: Is BRP recommending a 40w oil because it needs a 40w oil, or could it possibly be that the engine really only needs a 20w oil, and BRP knows that their 40w breaks down to 20w, so that is what they recommend?

Expiring minds want to know.

.

 

[SportsterDoc]

Yes, pure synthetic, definitely.
No, on 9000 mile intervals.
I am going 6000 mile intervals on my Triumph Street Twin with pure synthetic, but at the same speed it's cruising about 3000 RPMs less than the Ryker.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?137194-Maintenance-Schedule

Ryker oil, even pure synthetic, was dirty enough at 5000 miles.

Just my two cents

 

[ziggy]

Motul was recommended to me for my Ducati, so that's what I've used. It's a synthetic with great reviews on youtube. When it's time, I'll use it.:2thumbs:

 

[Construction tech]

I m not switching to full synthetic. Hapy with the BRP synthetic blend. Change the oil once a year every 6000k.