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Did my own 3000 mile oil change - not a big deal

pidjones

New member
Today, I did the first oil change on our 2021 RTL @ 2999.7 miles (close enough?)

I used BajaRon HiFlo filter and seal kit and Rotella T6 5W40 oil. After warming it up, I used Harbor Freight plastic 6" ramps to run the front wheels up on and a 2x4 under the rear shock mount to jack it up level. Placed two jack stands under the swing arms as safety stands (no weight on them)

I pre-spotted the two drain plugs with a mirror and LED light and had collected T45 Torx socket and 6mm Allen Socket along with a ratchet and a small ball peen hammer. Pulled the right side covers and pulled the brake fluid reservoir out of the way. I had a Drain pan ready for each drain point. Rapped the T45 and 6mm Allen into their bolts to break things loose, put the ratchet on each, and they popped free easily. Loosened the dipstick and removed the drain plugs for it to drain. Removed the filter cap (comes out easiest if you pull the brake fluid reservoir to the back) and pulled the filter. Changed O-rings and crush washers on everything.

After a full drain, I put the plugs back in and torqued them, then put the filter in and torqued its cap down. Poured in 5 quarts of oil and cleaned up everything, then opened the garage door, lowered and removed the floor jack, and rolled it back off the ramps. Started it and let it idle while I transferred the oil to jugs and wiped up splashes and tools.

All told about one hour for my first change. Took it for a 15-mile ride and upon return, it showed 1/2 quart low, so I added that in, and parked her. Not a bad chore. I'll hit the other things (fluid levels, etc.) later today. How much does the dealer charge? I have less than $50 in this one. But I do like working on bikes. TNGoodwyne came over to observe and lend a hand, plus to be prepared for his next change. An advantage to backdoor neighbors like that is we only need one set of the tools!
 
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I Pidjones!

The only thing you should have done is put in a BRP oil filter, I did this for the warranty period.

FlyBoy2121
 
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Here in the colonies the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act requires the manufacturer prove a non OEM part caused a problem/defect before they can deny a warranty claim. HiFlo filters are very reliable.
 
Did you just have the 2 ramps in the front, or did you have 3 ramps? I'm only going to use 2 in the front.
 
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Here in the colonies the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act requires the manufacturer prove a non OEM part caused a problem/defect before they can deny a warranty claim. HiFlo filters are very reliable.

A 2021 is likely out of warranty anyway.
 
I wonder why no one jumped in on him about torquing down the drain plug? I'm not getting on you about this, but from reading on here in other oil change posts... Anyway, just a light turn of the motor drain plug after it touches is enough. If you see it drip a drop of oil, then tighten it just a tiny bit more. Torquing the drain plug, if there's any oil on the threads of the drain plug and the pan it goes in can be difficult to do properly. That oil on the threads will change the torque reading. It will make the actual torque applied way higher than it should be and then, when taking the plug out on the next change, it will make it a lot harder most the time; sometimes the plug might be stuck tight! Someone here could explain it better than I can. Anyway, glad you changed your oil and checked the other things on your Spyder. I was just making a little observation. But 'Ride Safe; and Have Fun!'
 
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I recently got two estimates from local dealers for an oil change - $500.00! Wow!

I’ll be doing mine myself, the BRP kit for a Rotax 1330 is about $145.00
 
I Pidjones!

The only thing you should have done is put in a BRP oil filter, I did this for the warranty period.

FlyBoy2121
Of course, you can't go wrong with the OEM oil filter... Or maybe you can?!

This is old news and no longer applies. But in 2012, BRP pulled all their oil filters off the shelves and out of inventory. Why? Because they were so poorly constructed with such low quality materials that they were disintegrating and destroying motors. Motors which, many times, had to be replaced on warranty, though not in every case. Some owners were left holding the bag.

We had been selling HiFlo filters for the Spyder for years, at the time. But as you can imagine, with no OEM filters available for several months, our Filter sales went through the roof.

We also discovered that some dealerships had been using HiFlo filters instead of the OEM for several years before this happened. Can't say it was for the lower price, or because the quality was superior to OEM. But I suspect dealerships were hearing about the blown motors before it went viral and BRP had to do something.

As far as I know, in the 15 years we've been selling HiFlo, there have been zero issues. Something that BRP can't say about their product.

Again, this is old news. BRP redesigned their filters in early 2013 and have been (again, as far as I know) trouble free ever since. At least they learned their lesson. BRP OEM filters, though still overpriced, are of excellent quality now. But there were 5 years of bad product that most have forgotten, or never knew about.

My only point here is that just because a product is less expensive, that does not mean it is inferior.
 
I agree with ned64 about torquing oil plugs. Be very careful. Once I get my plugs done finger tight I give them about a 1/8 to 1/4 turn with my wrench. Never had an oil leak at the plugs nor a broken plug. I also replaced the OEM plugs with hex head plugs. Much easier.
 
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