Bob Denman
New member
:agree: After all; what is your peace of mind worth? :thumbup:
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Dealer Hitch Install
- Thread starter SailnDive
- Start date
campermac
Member
There really is no reason to use the OEM harness. If the trailer lights are LED they will work fine. I have installed the show chrome side markers with turn signals and tapped the trailer lights off the same line. The brake lights for the trailer I used the same line as the one I tapped into for the show chrome 3rd brake light. I tested the circuits with an ohm meter and the load is minimal.
I used a 5 flat wiring harness I got from a trailer shop $6.50 and fused the lines and no issues
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
You didn't use an isolator then? Granted, the trailer LEDs probably won't overload the bike system but that's not the main concern. If you have a short in the trailer tail or brake lights you'll blow the fuse that feeds the bike lights also. Then you have no brake and/or tail lights on bike or trailer. The turn signals are the big concern. Short those circuits and you might blow the cluster. I can't say you will, but I can't say you won't either. There is no fuse between the cluster and the turn signal lights. Blow the cluster and you've blown several hundred dollars.
campermac
Member
I fused each wire on the harness from the trailer before it gets to the harness on the bike. That way if there is a short then the fuse will blow and not harm the bike. I am going to do a redo on it though and put a fuse block on the trailer so not to have the 4 individual fuses and only have one place to check
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
I would suggest you leave the four individual fuses even with the fuse block. The reason being a likely place for a short, I think, will be in the pigtail between the trailer plug and trailer body. Also, use fast blow, not slow blow on the turn signal wires, and minimum size that will carry the load. That quite possibly will be enough to protect the cluster. A slow blow might allow excess current long enough to damage the cluster.
The chances of having a trailer short and blowing the cluster will be pretty small, but if it should ever happen it'll be a real oh :cus: moment!
As for me, I'll stick with an isolator! :thumbup:
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
2013 and earlier have a trailer mode in the settings screen. As far as I can decipher from wiring diagrams, etc., this is the only way nanny knows a trailer is connected. I think all it does is adjust shift points, which would only be while auto downshifting while slowing down. 2014 and later do not have the trailer mode setting. So, yes, mostly smoke was being blown your way.
flaggerphil
New member
I had mine installed by the dealer. That way (I trust this dealer) I knew it was done right and under warranty.
But then, I'm not the handiest thing in the world either. That's what trusted dealers are for.
But then, I'm not the handiest thing in the world either. That's what trusted dealers are for.
Dealer hitch install
Just wanted to add to post. I had my Dealer in Nashville , Tn install can am hitch and wiring this last Saturday, (1/2/16) . Price for the hitch and wiring was same at dealer as the BRP website $529.00 plus 2 hours labor and tax (TN sales tax 9.25%) total came to $835 :yikes:. Seems like a lot of money but anything to do with adult toys ( cycles, boats, etc.) cost big bucks. Just my opinion.
Just wanted to add to post. I had my Dealer in Nashville , Tn install can am hitch and wiring this last Saturday, (1/2/16) . Price for the hitch and wiring was same at dealer as the BRP website $529.00 plus 2 hours labor and tax (TN sales tax 9.25%) total came to $835 :yikes:. Seems like a lot of money but anything to do with adult toys ( cycles, boats, etc.) cost big bucks. Just my opinion.
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