Dave & Teddy's Most Excellent Adventures 2012

[CyncySpyder]

Thank You once again Scotty, I'll try these suggestions once I get home today

I'm curious tho as to what I've done to cause this, as I tried originally to remove the Axle Bolt with the Spyder lowered and had no luck, so that's why I thought raising ther Spyder would help:dontknow:

The tire is totally flat, so I guess I need to put some air in it so that it can support itself, or was that why you mentioned using a block? I did have to drive on the tire totally flat for about a block & a half to get to the service station where I added the fix-a-flat, not sure if that caused this issue or what:banghead: I was able to get it to come out about another 2 inches last night, but now it seems more solidly stuck than ever:banghead::bdh:

 

[NancysToy]

When you pull the axle, the threads can get hung up on the nut side if the wheel is even a little out of register. Wiggling the wheel, or relieving the pressure can help. You are trying to line things up so the axle can slip straight out. First thing I would try is wiggling and pulling on the axle, while wiggling the tire. If that isn't succesful you want to jack up the wheel enough to take the upwards force off the axle, but not so much that you switch to downward force. I might also suggest unscrewing the axle out with a wrench until it is free, or pushing it back in again and examining the end for damage, debris, or part of the cotter pin left in the hole. You really did nothing...sometimes they just fight back. Wiggle, unscrew, relieve the tension...it's all part of the game. If worst comes to worst, you would have to remove the muffler and drive the axle out with a drift pin or large punch, but that really shouldn't be necessary if it isn't damaged.

Patience, my friend! Oh, BTW, creative cuss words sometimes help.

 

[CyncySpyder]

Seems Logical & makes sense ........... two things that always seem to escape me

I honestly feel like an addict at an NA/AA meeting right now. The only thing that goes thru my head is....... Its been 8 days since we've last ridden Teds Red Sled:banghead: Every night, we've been going out and working and working on that frig'n Axle Bolt, and Teddy will get all Excited when I put him up in his carrier, thinking we're going for a ryde, but to soon realize, the ryde never comes:cus: And he just patiently waits there, anticipating feeling the wind in his face and all the wonderous smells causing his senses to go into overload ........... but it never happens, and he just sits there waiting for us to take our leave, just to be disappointed. Every now and then, along with hearing me cussing and banging and hammering, he'll feel a slight movement of the Spyder as I tug pull and twist, thinking WOOHOOO, this is it!!! Just to be disapointed over and over again:banghead::banghead: Guess you could say we're both start'n to 'Jones' for a fix:cus:

 

[shelbydave]

lower it just enough to take the downward pressure off the wheel, but not enough to put the bikes weight on the wheel. There should be "sweet spot" where you have neutral pressure - neither upward or downward. At that point you can nudge it left and right to reduce the forces holding the axle in. If you have a large screw driver, or a rod / piece of pipe that you can use on the other side, sometimes that helps to get everything lined up also.

 

[Doc - Riverside]

Dave

Look on the right side with a mirror and see where the end of the hitch bolt is. Attached are two pictures. What I think is going on is you got the right side of the bolt out of the hitch and the left side might have moved which is locking it in place. I would keep the rear wheel off the ground. At this point in time all you are trying to do is get the hitch bolt out. This bolt just slides thru axle. Wiggle the hitch left to right while pulling and turning the bolt with a pair of vise grips and see if it comes out. The pictures are for a reference as to where the bolt is in the axle. Notice the left end and right end of the hitch bolt. These two areas are the only place the hitch bolt comes in contact with the inside of the axle bolt.

 

[NancysToy]

I'm sorry, I did not look at your pics close enough. You are not having trouble with the axle, it is the hitch bolt. Did you remove the cotter key before your removed the nut? If not, you will shear off the cotter key and the nub that is left will prevent the bolt from coming out. Drive the bolt back ibn and check to see that the key hole is clear and that there is no remainder of ther cotter key on the threads. After that push/turn the bolt out, wiggling the hitch side to side as you do, as Doc said. The bolt should remove readily if you get things lined up. Same for the axle bolt, afterwards.

 

[StanProff]

I'm sorry, I did not look at your pics close enough. You are not having trouble with the axle, it is the hitch bolt. Did you remove the cotter key before your removed the nut? If not, you will shear off ther cotter key and the nub that is left will prevent the bolt from coming out. Drive the bolt back ibn and check to see that the key hole is clear and that there is no remainder of ther cotter key on the threads. After that push/turn the bolt out, wiggling the hitch side to side as you do, as Doc said. The bolt should remove readily if you get things lined up. Same for the axle bolt, afterwards.

My hitch was a 5 minute removal maybe 10 at the most including getting the tools out. NancysToys' gotta be on to something here, that thing should just slide right out then a good side to side wiggle on the Hitch and it should just slide off. Sorry for your problems, hope Teddy gets relief soon.

 

[MarkLawson]

Dave, I'm sure you're already thinking of this, but when you do get it all apart and are going back together, make sure you're lubing that bolt well to try an avoid this problem the next time around.

 

[coz]

ALL YOU HAD TO DO WAS

CALL me 7 days ago:roflblack::wrong:

 

[CyncySpyder]

The biggest problem here, is that I'm trying to do a 2 person job with just 1 & a dog

it is the hitch bolt. Did you remove the cotter key before your removed the nut? Same for the axle bolt, afterwards.

OK, I've removed the hitch once before, but not with a flat tire we never had this issue that I'm struggling with now. I HAVE indeed made sure to remove the cotter pin and nut from the right (muffler) side, so I know that end of the bolt is clear. Right now, I'm trying to get the Hitch off, so the first step to that is to remove the (I thought) Axle Bolt which I'm thinking is #31 on this diagram

Scotty, you mention Hitch Bolt & Axle Bolt, are they not the same thing? Am I missing something here? Please help me to understand as I'm confused about this:dontknow::shocked::dontknow:

My buddy us going to give me a hand and stop by after work today and see if we can't get this taken care of, one wiggling & jiggling the tire/hitch while the other working on the bolt and Teddy Supervising and prayingray:

 

[MarkLawson]

Dave, the 'axle bolt' is a hollow tube the hitch bolt slides through. I believe the axle bolt may be part #17 in your diagram. When I first installed the hitch, my assumption was that I'd have to remove the existing axle bolt and replace it with the hitch bolt. I was wrong. The hitch bolt slide through the hollow axle bolt.

 

[Doc - Riverside]

Dave, the 'axle bolt' is a hollow tube the hitch bolt slides through. I believe the axle bolt may be part #17 in your diagram. When I first installed the hitch, my assumption was that I'd have to remove the existing axle bolt and replace it with the hitch bolt. I was wrong. The hitch bolt slide through the hollow axle bolt.

Mark
Part # 17 is a spacer/alignment tube located inside the wheel hub. It is there to guide the axle bolt thru the wheel when you are putting the wheel back onto the swing arm. Part # 31 is the hollow axle bolt. So far I haven't located trailer hitch parts break out. The hitch bolt is solid.


Dave hope you are having luck getting the hitch bolt out and are on the way to fixing the tire. The ACS rod is located on the left side at the rear of the air bag. the hex heads are 10mm. Make sure you disconnect it before you start to remove the rear tire.

Doc

 

[MarkLawson]

Mark
Part # 17 is a spacer/alignment tube located inside the wheel hub. It is there to guide the axle bolt thru the wheel when you are putting the wheel back onto the swing arm. Part # 31 is the hollow axle bolt. So far I haven't located trailer hitch parts break out. The hitch bolt is solid.


Dave hope you are having luck getting the hitch bolt out and are on the way to fixing the tire. The ACS rod is located on the left side at the rear of the air bag. the hex heads are 10mm. Make sure you disconnect it before you start to remove the rear tire.

Doc

Doc, thanks for the correction!

 

[zrc]

Can you not just hammer the jack up, drop the back shock out and throw the back tire off like on an RS or am I mentally challenged as per the norm?

 

[Doc - Riverside]

Can you not just hammer the jack up, drop the back shock out and throw the back tire off like on an RS or am I mentally challenged as per the norm?

With the stock Trailer hitch mounted on a RT you can't get to the Axle Nut until the Hitch is removed. Once the Hitch is removed the removal of the wheel is basically the same between the RS and RT with the exception on the RT with the adjustable air bag. The rod or the bag height must be disconnected prior to removing the axle to drop the wheel.

 

[CyncySpyder]

I'm totally at a loss

:cus:My buddy & I just spent the past 4 hours trying to remove the 'Hitch' bolt:cus: with NO LUCK:banghead::banghead::cus::cus: I'm in a rather foul mood & even tho I don't drink, I'm really considering it right now :cheers::shocked:

 

[NancysToy]

Will it go back in? Will it turn by hand? Will it turn with a wrench?

 

[CyncySpyder]

Will it go back in? Will it turn by hand? Will it turn with a wrench?

no, no, barely. even tried from other side to force itvthru, won't budge.:banghead: going to bed, g'nite:chill:

 

[NancysToy]

Something is probably stuck in there. It is typically a piece of cotter key, but could be debris, or even a broken off thread on the bolt. You are going to have to look or feel inside the hole, and get things lined up. Then you will have to hammer the bolt back through, and inspect the end Some spray lubricant can't hurt. You may well damage the bolt, if it isn't already. It might be, and that could be the source of your problems. With a little luck it can be cleaned up if the threads are the only thing damaged. I hope it is not bent. If you can't get it to budge, you will have to remove the muffler and drive it out with a drift pin, big punch, or hardened bolt. That is likely to destroy it, and I don't think it is available separately. You would have to have one fabricated. If you can get it to turn, it will move easier. Best of luck on a difficult task.

 

[pro10is]

Dave,
It sounds like it's bound up. Whenever this happens to me I use this:
http://www.blastercorporation.com/PB_Blaster.html



It's an excellent penetrate. It will help loosen any rust and will act as a lubricant. Works wonders. I always have a can handy. Works when all else fails.

Spray it generously on and around the bolt, it will soak in, especially if you give it enough time to work. Do not get any on the belt, tire, brakes, or paint.

You can get it at auto parts stores. Mechanics always have it on hand.

Spray it on the bolt, wait at least five minutes, hammer the bolt back in, check for debris, turn the bolt both clockwise and counter-clockwise, clean the end, then try again to remove.

Good luck.