Cruise RPM

[SpyderWolf]

I think it may have been firefly that posted a link to another site that had a great write up about actually breaking in the engine. The major premise behind it was that the method of babying the motor for the first 500 miles or so is not good. The tolerances in todays engines are so small that you need to break it in, in the same manner that you actually plan on riding it. That will give you the best performance over the life of the motor.

Sorry, I did not keep a copy of that link but hopefully he will chime in on this thread.

 

[SpyderWolf]

It took a little searching, but I found it again.

It seems to be a controversial subject, as he states so at the top of the page as well, but his statements make a lot of sense to me. If nothing else it is good for a little more light reading.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[NancysToy]

Uh-oh! The old "How do I break in my engine?" discussion. :joke: Maybe we can sneak in some talk about octane, tires, loud pipes, seats, or something else just as fruitful. :bdh: I say ride them the way you like them.

OK, you hooked me. I'll add fuel to the fire. There is a whole lot less need to "break-in" an engine these days, precisely due to precision machining, special cylinder wall finishing methods, moly-filled rings, etc. The main need is to keep the heat even and let the metal adjust to the temperatures and work harden...in a controlled manner. There is also a need to collect any loose or immediate-wear particles in the screens, filters and magnets, so they can be removed from the engine at the first oil change. As far as break-in goes, what was good for your grandfather, was different for your father...and is not the same for you. Don't jump to conclusions because of something you read on the Internet......even here.

 

[Way2Fast]

During break in of any new vehicle I have always followed the advice in the owners manual. I do consider it important to do several heating /cooling cycles during the first 50 miles or so. Ride at the operating temperature for several miles, then stop and let the engine cool down before bringimg it up to operating temp again. This has always worked well for me.

 

[Firefly]

It took a little searching, but I found it again.

It seems to be a controversial subject, as he states so at the top of the page as well, but his statements make a lot of sense to me. If nothing else it is good for a little more light reading.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

When it comes down to it-- everyone has to decide how to break in their bike as well as ride it. My *personal* opinion (isn't that what these forums are about?) is to break them in hard. If not for the reasons listed by Motoman--- then because I would rather have an engine failure while under full warranty.

I like to ride it like it's stolen---- and it has taken everything I've given it without any complaints.

Ride and ENJOY!:thumbup:

 

[SpyderWolf]

When it comes down to it-- everyone has to decide how to break in their bike as well as ride it. My *personal* opinion (isn't that what these forums are about?) is to break them in hard. If not for the reasons listed by Motoman--- then because I would rather have an engine failure while under full warranty.

I like to ride it like it's stolen---- and it has taken everything I've given it without any complaints.

Ride and ENJOY!:thumbup:

I am in the same boat with you. When I took mine for the test ride we were following the sales dude on what I believe was an FJ 1200. We hit 110 during that ride. I bought it that day and rode it mostly at interstate speeds for the 1.5 hours it took to get home. Within the next 2 weeks it was up to Maggie Valley and then a few runs on the Dragon thrown in for good measure. My Spyder grew up very quickly.

 

[txknight67]

5500 - 5600

I am running an indicated 77mph at 5600 rpm. At night I usually run an indicated 71 - 72mph at 5100 rpm. At least that is where I try and hold it. Still having problems holding steady speed.

On the engine break in the only vehicle I ever had to worry about that with was my Dakota which I picked up with something like 5 miles on it. What ever the factory puts on it doing the test run off the assembly line. I did stay below the manufacturers recommended max rpm for break in until the exact mile it said I needed to. That happened on the drive back home after I picked it up so as soon as the odometer hit that mileage, I romped on it. Haven't looked back since.

 

[groundeffect]

Hi everyone.

Thanks for the replies about rpm cruise speeds, but also for the break-in topic. I was 'this' close to starting a new thread on engine break-in. Well, not really. All the reading I've done on it so far, I decided we didn't need another 'engine break-in' thread. .


I have the 5 year warranty plan + the Spyder has crazy awesome power as it is + I'm trusting BRP since they know their Rotax engines well, and the manual says:



------------------------------------------------------------
A break-in period of 1 000 km (600 mi) is required for the vehicle.
During the first 300 km (200 mi), avoid hard braking.

New brakes and tires do not op- erate at their maximum efficiency until their break-in is completed. Braking, steering and VSS (p.34) performance may be reduced, so use extra caution. Brakes and tires take about 300 km (200mi) of riding with frequent braking and steering to break-in. For riding with infrequent braking and steering, allow extra time to break-in the brakes and tires.


During the first 1 000 km (600 mi): – Avoid full throttle acceleration.
– Avoid prolonged riding.
– If the cooling fan operates continuously during stop and go traffic, pull over and shut off the engine to let it cool off or speed up to let air cool off the engine.
------------------------------------------------------------



So, as per BRP's suggestions in the manual, I am doing just that, by the book! I've not hit top speed, I've avoided full throttle acceleration, avoiding prolonged riding (the most I've rode at one time was about 30km without stopping, at normal rpm's, then stopping for a 10min break (to take photos, fill up the tank, or just to hang out and enjoy a landscape from a roadside pull-in ).

I've kept a close eye on the cooling fan and the cluster's temp gauge. Once, in traffic it did touch 5 bars, then the fan kicked in. Still in traffic waiting at a red light it dropped back to 4 bars and the fan turned off . Later while on the highway doing about 110km/hr (68miles/hr), in 5th gear, the bars dropped back to 3 bars.

As for the brake and tire break-in; I've not braked really hard, but have used them of course, when riding, but also on an empty parking lot, practicing the swerves and stopping-on-the-spot exercises.

I have 804km before the 1000km maintenance check, and 104km before my tires and brakes should be about broken in.
As for my 1000km maintenance check, I will be doing most of it myself, aside from the things I can not do, such as BUDS and drivebelt tension/adjustment.

And will indeed leave the other items for my local BRP dealer to complete, as the full required meal-deal of the first 1000 maintenance check will be completed, thoroughly, between myself and my Dealer.



Sorry for the long reply.
Thanks guys!
Cheers.
Dean