Clattering transmission

[Charlie]

2013 STS SE5 When my Spyder sits for 24hrs or more and I start in first gear and accelerate the transmission clatters quite loudly. So I accelerate very slowly. After 5 minutes of riding the STS exhibits no clatter. The oil level is half way between full and add. Please help.

 

[Chupaca]

Little checking..

Sometimes it is not the transmission but the whole clutch thing on the semi auto more so than the sm manual. Sometimes a longer warm up will help but you should check around as the driven line can do this as well. Front sprocket/ out output shaft bearing. My bet is in the clutch. How old is the oil/ filters in the ST , what oil are you using and have you been keeping the rpm's up...?? :dontknow:

 

[Peter Aawen]

Are you checking the oil level AFTER a 30 min or so ryde to get everything warmed up properly & then letting the engine idle down as per the oil check instructions in the manual?? :dontknow:

Following that procedure is VERY important if you want to get the oil level correct, & the SE's in particular are fairly sensitive to incorrect oil levels, with odd noises, clunks, & slow gear selection/changes one of the first signs of low oil! :sour:

Hope you get it sorted OK. :thumbup:

 

[nhoj]

2013 STS SE5 ...I start in first gear and accelerate the transmission clatters quite loudly.... After 5 minutes of riding the STS exhibits no clatter.

Perhaps its related to this TSB attached....

 

[billybovine]

As TSB summed up says. Clutch shudder is considered normal for a 2013. Mine does the same thing from new.

 

[Trbayth]

My 14 does it as well. Goes away after 5 or 10 minutes. Once everything is warm, shifting is smooth.

 

[Big Juice]

We was told by Harvey (SpyderPops) that he suggest a certain "method" of shutting down and starting a SE5 or 6. Don't know if this is a solution or not, but we are doing it to preserve the clutch on our two roadsters. He says that the clutch has to disengage from 1st gear upon first starting with a dry clutch plate when you shut down your roadster in gear. So what we do is this.........
Before we shut off the engine, we shift it into neutral (N), then set the brake, then shut down the engine. Upon starting, the transmission is already in N, so the dry clutch is not engaged for shifting, we let it warm up to get the oil circulation up to pressure, then we put it in 1st and go ride.
Just what we do in hopes of keeping things in good condition for many, many years.........

 

[Charlie]

Thanks to all who answered. That bulleton from BRP seems to sum it up. Best part being that its not damaging the clutch. Spyder Pops does my service and the last one was 2k ago with Amsoil. I check the oil after a long ride but not too quickly or it reads low.
Thanks again.

 

[billybovine]

We was told by Harvey (SpyderPops) that he suggest a certain "method" of shutting down and starting a SE5 or 6. Don't know if this is a solution or not, but we are doing it to preserve the clutch on our two roadsters. He says that the clutch has to disengage from 1st gear upon first starting with a dry clutch plate when you shut down your roadster in gear. So what we do is this.........
Before we shut off the engine, we shift it into neutral (N), then set the brake, then shut down the engine. Upon starting, the transmission is already in N, so the dry clutch is not engaged for shifting, we let it warm up to get the oil circulation up to pressure, then we put it in 1st and go ride.
Just what we do in hopes of keeping things in good condition for many, many years.........

Sure you should, most of the time put the transmission in neutral before turning off the engine. But it does not cause any harm to the clutch if you don't. On a SE5 or 6 the clutch is not engaged while the engine is off. That's because it needs engine power to engage. After the engine starts in gear it auto shifts to neutral. The clutch is still not engaged. That's because you don't need to engage the clutch to shift gears.